Installing Teraflex Leveling Kit Questions
#1
JK Enthusiast
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Installing Teraflex Leveling Kit Questions
Hello - I'm planning to install the Teraflex spacer leveling kit on my 14 Wrangler unlimited next week. I had a couple of questions I was hoping someone could answer. 1: Do you need to disconnect the front drive-shaft per the Teraflex install video? In the video it shows you disconnecting the drive-shaft but I wasn't sure if it was necessary. I installed a lift on my old 2-door and didn't disconnect it when installing. Doesn't look hard to do but didn't want to unless necessary. 2: Do you think I should loosen the control arm bolts and re-torque once on the ground to avoid binding? Or do you think this is not needed on this size lift? I know its recommended when lifting.
Appreciate the advice.
Thanks,
Don
Appreciate the advice.
Thanks,
Don
#2
JK Newbie
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When I installed mine, I did not have to remove the front driveshaft, but I did loosen the control arm bolts and then torqued them down after it was back on the ground.
#3
JK Jedi Master
X-XXX. I've helped install a lot of lifts, including TF. Never disconnected DS. Always loosen, and, then retorque all control arms and trackbars after Jeep is back on its own weight. Eliminates pre-load binding at joints that could lead to strange vibrations.
#4
When I put mine in I didn't disconnect anything except the shocks and sway bars. (Brake lines too). I didn't think to retorque the control arms, but I was a newby then, lol. I'd do it now, if I did it all over, and maybe disco the trackbar. You don't need to, but the axle will drop further, making everything easier.
Don't forget to watch your abs wires. And drop the e brake cables out if their holders.
Don't forget to watch your abs wires. And drop the e brake cables out if their holders.
#5
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Hello - I'm planning to install the Teraflex spacer leveling kit on my 14 Wrangler unlimited next week. I had a couple of questions I was hoping someone could answer. 1: Do you need to disconnect the front drive-shaft per the Teraflex install video? In the video it shows you disconnecting the drive-shaft but I wasn't sure if it was necessary. I installed a lift on my old 2-door and didn't disconnect it when installing. Doesn't look hard to do but didn't want to unless necessary. 2: Do you think I should loosen the control arm bolts and re-torque once on the ground to avoid binding? Or do you think this is not needed on this size lift? I know its recommended when lifting.
Appreciate the advice.
Thanks,
Don
Appreciate the advice.
Thanks,
Don
#6
JK Enthusiast
As they said, no DS disconnect needed. Only shocks, swaybar links and brake lines from frame in the front and rear, and e-brake cables from under the body tub at the rear. On my rubicon I also had to disonnect the vents and electrical connections from axles.
Sure helps if you can get your hands on coil compressors, which I had and installation was much easier. They can often be rented at automotive specialised stores.
Sure helps if you can get your hands on coil compressors, which I had and installation was much easier. They can often be rented at automotive specialised stores.
Last edited by Da10A; 07-31-2014 at 07:08 AM. Reason: I
#7
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I didn't have spring compressors and had to disconnect front shaft and track at to get the front springs in my rubi. Have since gotten rid of that setup because of terrible tire cupping on front end.
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#8
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I helped a friend do this. It's straight forward. We had to push and pull some..but a little patience got the springs back in. Shocks and links is all ya need to disassemble.
We used a small jack on the opposing side and pushed it up as we pulled the side we were working on down.
The entire job was done in 1:30-2:00 hours. Enjoy it and take your time. You'll have great results.
We used a small jack on the opposing side and pushed it up as we pulled the side we were working on down.
The entire job was done in 1:30-2:00 hours. Enjoy it and take your time. You'll have great results.
#10
Having the right tools will make it go very smooth, and just do one side at the time; don't try to drop the whole axle at once. A good floor jack and tall jack stands for the frame. You can use your scissor jack in the back of the jeep under the axle, that works great. I tell everyone this, make sure you have RATCHETING OPEN END METRIC WRENCHES!!!!! You will get your feelings hurt if you don't.
I loosened everything up under my jeep before we ever got it off the ground. After the lift was done, I actually drove around the yard a lap to settle everything, then pulled back up on the slap and torqued everything. Make sure you get an alignment done. Don't try to red neck it in the yard with your drinking buddy and a tape measure. People will try to convince you it isn't necessary, but it is. Yes, Toe is all that can be adjusted, but that's all it takes. Get it checked on a proper alignment machine, and if it doesn't need anything, most places won't charge you. Mine was toed out 2 degrees after my lift, and that's enough to ruin a set of tires over time.
I loosened everything up under my jeep before we ever got it off the ground. After the lift was done, I actually drove around the yard a lap to settle everything, then pulled back up on the slap and torqued everything. Make sure you get an alignment done. Don't try to red neck it in the yard with your drinking buddy and a tape measure. People will try to convince you it isn't necessary, but it is. Yes, Toe is all that can be adjusted, but that's all it takes. Get it checked on a proper alignment machine, and if it doesn't need anything, most places won't charge you. Mine was toed out 2 degrees after my lift, and that's enough to ruin a set of tires over time.