Installing a new rear pinion seal, any tips?
10-05-2010, 04:14 PM
#1
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Installing a new rear pinion seal, any tips?
Ok, I am installing a new rear pinion seal on my dana 44 since it began to leak after the nut backed off a bit after a new drive shaft... tightening it didnt work so i guess the seal got messed up..
someone mentioned using RTV where the yoke meets the seal, does that sound right.... I know how to actually put in the seal just want to be sure that I dont need any special RTV or anything..
thanks
someone mentioned using RTV where the yoke meets the seal, does that sound right.... I know how to actually put in the seal just want to be sure that I dont need any special RTV or anything..
thanks
10-06-2010, 09:42 AM
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Hi,
I would not be using rtv to repair a pinion seal. If it helps, I posted the following in another thread regarding a leaking front seal:
I have no walk through but here are some steps:
1. Remove 4 bolts on driveshaft/flange with 15mm socket (I use a 3/8 breaker bar b/c it has more clearance)
2. Remove yoke/flange with impact gun and 1+1/8" socket. Use a glove to hold the flange or you will hurt yourself. The flange can be pulled off with a puller. I used a steering wheel puller the last go round.
3. Remove old seal. I use a chisel to collapse it around its perimeter then slide in a large screwdriver to pry it out.
4. Put in new seal. You can purchase a seal drift (the right way) to pound it in. Recently we have been using a couple of old carrier bearing races taped together with duct tape to do the job.
5. Replace yoke/flange. You can gently tap it on until enough threads are available to start the nut. BE CAREFUL TO GUIDE IT THROUGH THE SEAL.
6. Tighten yoke with impact. I'm not sure what the torque specs should be. We keep a list of torque specs downloaded from project jk in the garage for quick reference. I'm sure that 150 to 175 ft-lbs should do, but look it up. You just don't want to crush the sleeve any further than it already is. I have an impact gun that's supposed to put out 400ft-lbs and it cannot crush the front crush sleeve.
I should mention that I filled the backside of the new seal with grease to hold the seal spring in place (between the metal flange and the rubber seal lip). I'm sure it's not necessary, but that's what I learned growing up and I never stopped doing it. I have also never has a seal spring pop loose during an install (superstition more than anything).
For the rear, the driveshaft has 8 bolts (8mm head?) and the pinion nut is 1+5/16".
I would not be using rtv to repair a pinion seal. If it helps, I posted the following in another thread regarding a leaking front seal:
I have no walk through but here are some steps:
1. Remove 4 bolts on driveshaft/flange with 15mm socket (I use a 3/8 breaker bar b/c it has more clearance)
2. Remove yoke/flange with impact gun and 1+1/8" socket. Use a glove to hold the flange or you will hurt yourself. The flange can be pulled off with a puller. I used a steering wheel puller the last go round.
3. Remove old seal. I use a chisel to collapse it around its perimeter then slide in a large screwdriver to pry it out.
4. Put in new seal. You can purchase a seal drift (the right way) to pound it in. Recently we have been using a couple of old carrier bearing races taped together with duct tape to do the job.
5. Replace yoke/flange. You can gently tap it on until enough threads are available to start the nut. BE CAREFUL TO GUIDE IT THROUGH THE SEAL.
6. Tighten yoke with impact. I'm not sure what the torque specs should be. We keep a list of torque specs downloaded from project jk in the garage for quick reference. I'm sure that 150 to 175 ft-lbs should do, but look it up. You just don't want to crush the sleeve any further than it already is. I have an impact gun that's supposed to put out 400ft-lbs and it cannot crush the front crush sleeve.
I should mention that I filled the backside of the new seal with grease to hold the seal spring in place (between the metal flange and the rubber seal lip). I'm sure it's not necessary, but that's what I learned growing up and I never stopped doing it. I have also never has a seal spring pop loose during an install (superstition more than anything).
For the rear, the driveshaft has 8 bolts (8mm head?) and the pinion nut is 1+5/16".