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Installed TF BB and now some questions.

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Old 08-21-2008, 11:43 AM
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ok, thanks for all your help. This weekend I won't be able to get to it, but I hope to next weekend and I will remember to post back on here what I changed and how it helped.
Old 08-21-2008, 12:32 PM
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Rear swaybar links go in the inside top and bottom. Please keep us informed as to what's going on. Feel free to call me also.
Old 08-26-2008, 04:05 PM
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Ok, I had some free time tonight. I installed my my wheel spacers and moved my rear swaybar links to the outside. I see Joe that you meantion they should be on the inside? But in the instructions to install my lift on this site shows pictures of them on the outside. Also a friend of mine with a JK not lifted are on the outside. I also centered the steering wheel. Now the ESP isn't giving me fits and it rides noticably better. At this point I'd like to keep the extra 1" spacer in the front if possible. I can see the front wheels have caster or camber (I don't know which is which). And you guys are saying this can't be adjusted without adding adjustable control arms? I gotta have upper and lower? How bad are they to install? Again, thanks for your help.
Old 08-26-2008, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 07sahara
Ok, I had some free time tonight. I installed my my wheel spacers and moved my rear swaybar links to the outside. I see Joe that you meantion they should be on the inside? But in the instructions to install my lift on this site shows pictures of them on the outside. Also a friend of mine with a JK not lifted are on the outside. I also centered the steering wheel. Now the ESP isn't giving me fits and it rides noticably better. At this point I'd like to keep the extra 1" spacer in the front if possible. I can see the front wheels have caster or camber (I don't know which is which). And you guys are saying this can't be adjusted without adding adjustable control arms? I gotta have upper and lower? How bad are they to install? Again, thanks for your help.
The sway bar links go on the inside if you are running factory wheels without spacers. They go on the outside if you have spacers or a wheel with less backspacing.


Caster is adjusted by the control arms to tilt the axle. Positive caster has the driveshaft pointed slightly down. The factory setting is 4.2 degrees positive caster. Swapping control arms is fairly simple. Check out WOL's basic alignment writeup

Camber is the angle between the vertical axis of the wheel and the vertical axis of the vehicle when viewed from the front or rear. If the top of the wheel is further out than the bottom (that is, away from the axle), it is called positive camber; if the bottom of the wheel is further out than the top, it is called negative camber. Camber is usually not adjustable on a solid axle vehicle. If your camber is off, it usually means a bent inner "C". Off-road Evolution makes a kit to reinforce them and the only way to correct it would be with an off=set ball joint.
Old 08-26-2008, 07:27 PM
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We have an 07 Sahara and my wife didn't notice any change at all in how it drove after the 2.5" BB. I didn't do anything other then recenter the wheel and it drives great.

Id agree that the 1" spacer is causing all your problems and adj control arms are the only thing that's gonna fix it (if you keep the spacer).

The rear links can be mounted either inside or outside, if you mount them on the inside you don't need the wheel spacers for stock rims/tires. If you mount them on the outside you will need wheel spacers.
Old 08-28-2008, 08:20 PM
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I have the 2.5 TF BB and have that flighty feeling as well as the the darting around on rough roads. 4WPW told me it was because of the Mud Grapplers I am running and it was not an issue with the lift. I'm to the point where I just want to take ot all off and put it back to stock, it's not a whole lot of fun to drive on anything but perfect roads. I guess I'll try adj control arms first though after reading this thread....hopefully this will cure the problem. It was worse right after the install, but a new steering damper helped a bit. It is just a band-aid though and would like things to be as they are intended, without covering up an underlying problem.

The wierd thing is, it's much more stable when I take the doors and hardtop off. It's a very noticable difference...a change in the rake with the extra weight off maybe?

Wish me luck.....
Old 08-28-2008, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Gunslinger
I have the 2.5 TF BB and have that flighty feeling as well as the the darting around on rough roads. 4WPW told me it was because of the Mud Grapplers I am running and it was not an issue with the lift. I'm to the point where I just want to take ot all off and put it back to stock, it's not a whole lot of fun to drive on anything but perfect roads. I guess I'll try adj control arms first though after reading this thread....hopefully this will cure the problem. It was worse right after the install, but a new steering damper helped a bit. It is just a band-aid though and would like things to be as they are intended, without covering up an underlying problem.

The wierd thing is, it's much more stable when I take the doors and hardtop off. It's a very noticable difference...a change in the rake with the extra weight off maybe?

Wish me luck.....
What is your tire pressure?
Old 08-28-2008, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by TeraFlex
What is your tire pressure?

44 PSI in 33x12.50/17 Nitto Mud Grapplers. Any more than that and it seems like its worse.

I love the look, but it feels usafe in its current configuration. Do you think the control arms/track bar is the solution? I'd like to keep the lift if I can.

I forgot to mention that under moderate to heavy braking it yanks the wheel to one side or the other depending on the road. I now grab onto the wheel when I brake hard as it it were the only thing between me and a 100' freefall. But, again, that's not constant either. So many of the people on this board have this lift without any issues, I'm going crazy trying to figure out why mine is different.

Thanks in advance
Tony
Old 08-29-2008, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Gunslinger
44 PSI in 33x12.50/17 Nitto Mud Grapplers. Any more than that and it seems like its worse.

I love the look, but it feels usafe in its current configuration. Do you think the control arms/track bar is the solution? I'd like to keep the lift if I can.

I forgot to mention that under moderate to heavy braking it yanks the wheel to one side or the other depending on the road. I now grab onto the wheel when I brake hard as it it were the only thing between me and a 100' freefall. But, again, that's not constant either. So many of the people on this board have this lift without any issues, I'm going crazy trying to figure out why mine is different.

Thanks in advance
Tony
Might want to drop your PSI to at least 35, probably 30.
Old 08-29-2008, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by FuLcRuM
Might want to drop your PSI to at least 35, probably 30.
I'll give it a shot...seems kind of low though doesn't it? How will tire wear be at that pressure? It would be nice if the solution is that simple. After reading my previous posts, they sound a little like the "sky is falling." That is not the case, it's just hard hard to describe accurately. It does get squirrely, smetimes pretty bad, but it's not all the time.

I'll give it a shot and lower the pressure when I get home this afternoon. I don't see how it can be the lift itself due to the simplicity.....I'm sure it's not. It's not like the whole underside of the JK was replaced

Thanks for the advice....I'll let you know how it works out


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