I'm wanting to go to 37's what do I need?
#1
I'm wanting to go to 37's what do I need?
I recently purchased a car to use as a daily driver as I am traveling 150mi a day. Now that my jeep is no longer my DD I want 37's. What am I missing of my list.
Current set up- 12 jkur auto, 2.5 teraflex coil lift, front adj lower control arms and from adj trackbar, trimmed fenders, 35x1250 km2's.
What do I need to go to 37's?
Front drive shaft
4" springs
Shocks for 4" lift
Longer brake lines
Longer bump stop extensions
What else?
Current set up- 12 jkur auto, 2.5 teraflex coil lift, front adj lower control arms and from adj trackbar, trimmed fenders, 35x1250 km2's.
What do I need to go to 37's?
Front drive shaft
4" springs
Shocks for 4" lift
Longer brake lines
Longer bump stop extensions
What else?
#2
Well u can get a 1" body lift and be able to keep Ur tf2.5 lift. My setup is the teraflex 2.5 with a 1.25 rough country body lift on 37's. Trimmed fenders, pinch seams and rubi rock sliders. The reason why I got the bigger body lift from RC is because its only $100 on eBay compared to the daytar 1" for $195
Last edited by bob-o; 11-12-2012 at 05:39 AM.
#4
You can run 37's a 2.5" lift and flat/trimmed flares if you bumpstop correctly. Just wheeled all weekend with a friend that runs the RK 2.5 lift and 37" MTR's. It was a nice low COG and wheeled great. It did drag the belly a little.
If you do 3.5 to 4" coil spring spring lift then the items you mentioned will be needed. The post above regarding the front axle work in on target. C gussets, a truss or inner sleeves and chromo axle shafts front and rear...and ball joints(the stock ones won't hold up). 37's will twist the axle shafts and bend flanges if you wheel it.
I'll post a pic if I can find it.
edit:
here is pic of 37's on the RK 2.5 lift
Here is mine on an RK 3.5
If you do 3.5 to 4" coil spring spring lift then the items you mentioned will be needed. The post above regarding the front axle work in on target. C gussets, a truss or inner sleeves and chromo axle shafts front and rear...and ball joints(the stock ones won't hold up). 37's will twist the axle shafts and bend flanges if you wheel it.
I'll post a pic if I can find it.
edit:
here is pic of 37's on the RK 2.5 lift
Here is mine on an RK 3.5
Last edited by tcdawg; 11-12-2012 at 06:05 AM.
#6
Well u can get a 1" body lift and be able to keep Ur tf2.5 lift. My setup is the teraflex 2.5 with a 1.25 rough country body lift on 37's. Trimmed fenders, pinch seams and rubi rock sliders. The reason why I got the bigger body lift from RC is because its only $100 on eBay compared to the daytar 1" for $195
I had trimmed my pinch seams and rock rails before, but had to go back and trim a good bit more to have enough clearance. I also added adjustable aluminum bumpstops made by a company called Rokmen here in denver. They come as a package and I actually had to add another 1/2" while in the trail to keep the rear from rubbing a little bit and it only took about 5 minutes total to do the rear on both sides.
IMO, you don't really HAVE TO change the front drive shaft until you start to have problems. A guy I wheel with has been running the RK 3.5" max travel on his jku with no problems on front DS and he gets some crazy flex.
Last edited by Rooster454; 11-12-2012 at 07:56 AM.
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#8
Here is a current pic of my jeep. If I decide to go coil spacers will I still need new shocks and longer brake lines?
Attachment 387903
Attachment 387903
until you put on a longer shock you'll be fine as the shorter shocks will be the limiting factor on travel
check out rokmen.com they make the aluminum coil spacers(and bumpstops i used) and they're cheap and you can get them in 1/2" increments up to 2.5" and they won't compress over time like the TF polyurethane ones I was running on the front before, They looked crazy warped when I took them out
#10
Other than that, I would get at least new lower arms front and rear. I'll ultimately be replacing all 8. Man i wish money did grow on trees