i bit of help, been decieved by sales person, just noticed now... after almost 2 year
#21
JK Enthusiast
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I am not trying to be mean, but the fact that you did not do your research on a product you were buying is not the fault of the salesman. This also shows that in the fact you are looking at a 3.5" lift to run 33" tires or mb 35's Even if you had bought the rubi with 35" tires (auto?) you would still want to re-gear to at least 5.13 if you want a performance machine.
You stated that you saved $3000 vs buying the islander, that should more then pay for a re-gear and a set of 33's so I don't see the complaint you have. The rubi would have cost quite a bit more then the $3000 and you would have still had a jeep with narrow 32" tires and only about 1.5" more ground clearance.
You stated that you saved $3000 vs buying the islander, that should more then pay for a re-gear and a set of 33's so I don't see the complaint you have. The rubi would have cost quite a bit more then the $3000 and you would have still had a jeep with narrow 32" tires and only about 1.5" more ground clearance.
#22
JK Enthusiast
just buy the 33s and go with it.
Now as for the salesperson decieved you. shouldnt you know what you are buying if you are spending 30k on it? You didnt by a jeep on a whim right?
either way , all is fine. enjoy the ride.
sent from my Samsung using tapatalk
Now as for the salesperson decieved you. shouldnt you know what you are buying if you are spending 30k on it? You didnt by a jeep on a whim right?
either way , all is fine. enjoy the ride.
sent from my Samsung using tapatalk
#23
JK Super Freak
My list of items to upgrade, grows more and more everyday. I hate the LT tires I got, I now want the duratrac . And the flashpaq, and cargo basket, and the windshield light bar, and the heavy floor liners, more lights and the led lights inside........I have 3.73 gears and still want the 5.13 gears......and so on.......
I did a lot and want more.
Just regear to get it right. Get the facts and get the right information before you buy.
I did a lot and want more.
Just regear to get it right. Get the facts and get the right information before you buy.
#24
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I have been looking at the 2012's. Th edealers are confused when the first question I ask is does it hav e3.73's or 3.221's. I am buying a sport so 4.10's arent an option. THe sales people always ask is it that big of a deal. For the $2K it will cost to put them in vs the $50 charge to upgrade to 3.73'2 he!! yea its a big deal. Sorry you got mislead.
#25
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Originally Posted by tslewisz
Everyone is different... I thought 3.21's sucked with 32's.
#26
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thanks guys for all the support and suggestions ! im definetly cheered back up and just to clear things up i knew from the start that this will become a expensive hobby i just didnt want to get scre*** from the start hehehe
i know i should have done my research before buying the Jeep, thats my bad i just thought that the "expert salesguy" would have explained the difference better for me since i have no clue about cars... im starting to get into cars and mechanic now since my brother in law is a mechanic. i emails Chrysler for a build sheet for my jeep since i wasn't given one when i bought it and here it is what it has to say about my gears and differentials
DJRS Next Gen. Dana 30 Solid Front Axle
DMEP 3.73 Rear Axle Ratio
DRZS Next Gen. Dana 44 HD Rear Axle
DSA Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle
DS7S Conventional Differential Frt Axle
it mentions the rear axle ration but not the front axle ratio, does that mean that its the same ratio on both?
as for why 3.5" lift, well i thought the higher the better for fording? and originally had intended to put some 35's in it ( and was suggested by my father in law, he has an 87 Cherokee with 3.5" lift).
i know i should have done my research before buying the Jeep, thats my bad i just thought that the "expert salesguy" would have explained the difference better for me since i have no clue about cars... im starting to get into cars and mechanic now since my brother in law is a mechanic. i emails Chrysler for a build sheet for my jeep since i wasn't given one when i bought it and here it is what it has to say about my gears and differentials
DJRS Next Gen. Dana 30 Solid Front Axle
DMEP 3.73 Rear Axle Ratio
DRZS Next Gen. Dana 44 HD Rear Axle
DSA Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle
DS7S Conventional Differential Frt Axle
it mentions the rear axle ration but not the front axle ratio, does that mean that its the same ratio on both?
as for why 3.5" lift, well i thought the higher the better for fording? and originally had intended to put some 35's in it ( and was suggested by my father in law, he has an 87 Cherokee with 3.5" lift).
#27
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I would go with a 2.5" lift,but it's your call, you could run 35's with flat flares on a 2.5" lift,when you go higher, then you will need a lot more,like drive shaft,and possibly flipped drag link,and probably more.
Of course just my opinion,
Good luck
Of course just my opinion,
Good luck
#28
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The gear ratios have to be the same in both axles or the wheel will turn at different speeds.
The taller the lift the more you have to do to correct the steering and suspension geometry as well as driveline angles. If you are going to be going thru deep water look into moving the air intake away from the front so you don't hydrolock the motor. Your tire size should dictate the size of lift. You will also need to look at wheel back spacing. If you don't have to lift you are better off to not do it.
The taller the lift the more you have to do to correct the steering and suspension geometry as well as driveline angles. If you are going to be going thru deep water look into moving the air intake away from the front so you don't hydrolock the motor. Your tire size should dictate the size of lift. You will also need to look at wheel back spacing. If you don't have to lift you are better off to not do it.
#29
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The gear ratios have to be the same in both axles or the wheel will turn at different speeds.
The taller the lift the more you have to do to correct the steering and suspension geometry as well as driveline angles. If you are going to be going thru deep water look into moving the air intake away from the front so you don't hydrolock the motor. Your tire size should dictate the size of lift. You will also need to look at wheel back spacing. If you don't have to lift you are better off to not do it.
The taller the lift the more you have to do to correct the steering and suspension geometry as well as driveline angles. If you are going to be going thru deep water look into moving the air intake away from the front so you don't hydrolock the motor. Your tire size should dictate the size of lift. You will also need to look at wheel back spacing. If you don't have to lift you are better off to not do it.
#30
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so now that ive screwed up on my choice of Lift, what should i go with first? the superchip then 33's or 33's then superchip or tell my wife i got a super great deal like super cheap deal and get them at the same time? lol