I already know.....RIPP supercharger
#11
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If I were looking at a super charger I'd get the AEV/Magnuson super charger. It's design builds power lower in the RPM's than the Ripp which seem more suited to the Jeep engine.
#12
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I just regeared my 07 unlimited auto from 410 to 513 and I'm able to drive at 70mph on the highway going up hills without kicking out of overdrive. I love the jeep again. Wish I would have done it sooner. Oh I'm on 2.5 lift with 1" body lift on 35s Mts. It's not fast now, but it's fine.
#13
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You definitely have to regear first. I have a 2011 4dr manual on 35's and regeared to 4.88 then installed the RIPP GEN 2. Gears made an impressive power difference and the RIPP made it even sweeter. For some it's hard to justify that much money for a kit but I recommend it. Have to use premium fuel with the setup for it to run at it's best but I would do it all again if I had to.
#14
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I appreciate all the information fellas. Looks like I will try regearing first and see how well that helps me out. And to be honest I truly think the mpg is so bad because the cold starts and ice cold air in Alaska. When I was in Colorado is was pulling 15 mpg city and roughly 16 mpg highway with almost the same set up. Regearing seems like the way to go, then I'll prolly drop in either the RIPP or Sprintex or even the AEV. I still have eight months on a deployment.....lot of time to think of what to do......thanks again for all the input!
#15
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I appreciate all the information fellas. Looks like I will try regearing first and see how well that helps me out. And to be honest I truly think the mpg is so bad because the cold starts and ice cold air in Alaska. When I was in Colorado is was pulling 15 mpg city and roughly 16 mpg highway with almost the same set up. Regearing seems like the way to go, then I'll prolly drop in either the RIPP or Sprintex or even the AEV. I still have eight months on a deployment.....lot of time to think of what to do......thanks again for all the input!
#16
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If your jeep is low miles you can probally trade up to a 2013 or 14 for less than 5k. Lots of dealers will let you move your mods over before you trade it in.
#17
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I was going to suggest exactly this as it is what I did with my 2010. For me it was the cheapest option. Most dealers will help you move your goodies to the new truck.
#18
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Re-Gear FIRST!!! Especially if you have an automatic. The Torque Management programming calibrations think you are basically are pulling a house and are slipping the converter and clutch disks in the trans to compensate. That will lead to early AT failure. Re-gear Re-gear Re-Gear. If you find it still lacking, give us a call. ![Cool](https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.png)
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RIPP
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RIPP
#19
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Definitely re-gear first. With 4.10's and 37's I was not able to hold 70 in overdrive unless I had a tail wind or was going down hill. If I remember it was only pulling about 17-1800 rpm. After going to 5.13's, I was able to use overdrive (22-2300 rpm's). It still would downshift in a stiff wind or going up hill but much better. You will notice a big difference in power around town also.
Problem with the 3.8 is that it need rpm's to make power. Gotta get the revs up first.
Mike
Problem with the 3.8 is that it need rpm's to make power. Gotta get the revs up first.
Mike
#20
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Definitely re-gear first. With 4.10's and 37's I was not able to hold 70 in overdrive unless I had a tail wind or was going down hill. If I remember it was only pulling about 17-1800 rpm. After going to 5.13's, I was able to use overdrive (22-2300 rpm's). It still would downshift in a stiff wind or going up hill but much better. You will notice a big difference in power around town also.
Problem with the 3.8 is that it need rpm's to make power. Gotta get the revs up first.
Mike
Problem with the 3.8 is that it need rpm's to make power. Gotta get the revs up first.
Mike
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