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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Hydro Assit or Fox ATS

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Old 12-03-2015, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
I'll build you axles. Send me an order.
This is a tempting offer, whats your ballpark on, say the same axles you're running?
Old 12-04-2015, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Maertz
For a shit set up... I have about 1k in my rear 60 and its full float 5.38 on custom chromoly 35 spline shafts and solid axle spindles fully locked and trussed with abs. My front i have about 2500 max (even counting hydro assist) and it's fully locked and 35 spline and trussed d60 also 5.38 with hubs...so hmmmm same price or less for a built d60? Yeah ill take that....now subtract the money i got for my rubi d44s and i spent like a grand for fully built Front AND rear d60s..no brainer imo... Hell most spend triple that on a lift and quadruple that on a lift and tires... Feel free to spend double to triple that on just a front d30 if you feel its a no brainer.. Ill still call you stupid all day.
I don't believe you that you built a locked d60 with custom chromoly shafts and gears for $1000. Unless everything you bought was used. Most d60 lockers alone are at least $600-$1000 never mind the shafts and gears.
Old 12-05-2015, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by petef550

I don't believe you that you built a locked d60 with custom chromoly shafts and gears for $1000. Unless everything you bought was used. Most d60 lockers alone are at least $600-$1000 never mind the shafts and gears.
Well i have a spooled rear and the rear axle was 150.

Spool = 100
Axle shafts = 350
Axle = 150
Gears & yoke = 300
New bearings/seals = about 100 max
I did choose to do brakes when i got it also for an extra 150 maybe.
Spindles = 250
Truss with brackets 250.
Tone rings 85.

Add that all up and then subtract the 750 i sold my rear rubi 44 for and what am i at? ALSO keep in mind many junkyard axles wont need spindles like i did or even shafts/brakes depending on the build...

My rubi front i sold for 2500 if i recall and the junkyard axle i bought was 500. That left me 2k to truss, locker, gear and bracket and i did it all myself for about that, i dont feel like breaking out that breakdown so you can either believe me or not... I dont care.

Last edited by Maertz; 12-05-2015 at 01:21 PM.
Old 12-05-2015, 03:08 PM
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What Maertz said. I sold my built Rubi axles for $4800. If I didn't drop $2200 on RCVs for my D60, I would have built a D60 front and Sterling rear for the same price. And I went expensive - Yukon air lockers, lots of new parts, etc.

In fact, I can say this for fact. If you can live with a 4.xx gear ratio, i can build you a D60 out of a 2005+ super duty for $1000 and that includes the artec swap kit.

Assuming all the parts are good, I could do it for under $800. True, you won't have a locker, but if you need to do it on the cheap, that's the cost.
Old 12-05-2015, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
What Maertz said. I sold my built Rubi axles for $4800. If I didn't drop $2200 on RCVs for my D60, I would have built a D60 front and Sterling rear for the same price. And I went expensive - Yukon air lockers, lots of new parts, etc.

In fact, I can say this for fact. If you can live with a 4.xx gear ratio, i can build you a D60 out of a 2005+ super duty for $1000 and that includes the artec swap kit.

Assuming all the parts are good, I could do it for under $800. True, you won't have a locker, but if you need to do it on the cheap, that's the cost.
Wow...this has gone way off topic. (sorry OP).

Has anyone gotten around the problem with the sterling hitting the fuel tank? I know there was a fellow looking at using a 2-DR tank but I think he gave up??

I'd MUCH rather have a set of Ford 1-tons, but I'm put off by the clearance issue with the sterling.
Old 12-05-2015, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jedg
Wow...this has gone way off topic. (sorry OP). Has anyone gotten around the problem with the sterling hitting the fuel tank? I know there was a fellow looking at using a 2-DR tank but I think he gave up?? I'd MUCH rather have a set of Ford 1-tons, but I'm put off by the clearance issue with the sterling.
I'm going to do some testing soon. I know three JKUs running the sterling without issue. Two did nothing and one did a little hammer to the gas tank skid. Looking at my Jeep, I can't see how it hits the tank. Supposedly it can. My tank is in the rear, so I really don't have a reference point.
Old 12-05-2015, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
I'm going to do some testing soon. I know three JKUs running the sterling without issue. Two did nothing and one did a little hammer to the gas tank skid. Looking at my Jeep, I can't see how it hits the tank. Supposedly it can. My tank is in the rear, so I really don't have a reference point.
Yeah, that's what's stopping me. I want to stick with the 4 control arm system that it comes with (though I'm using Currie CAs).

I suspect it's how much lift you have. In my case, I'm at 3" of measured lift and so I suspect I would fall into the category of having clearance issues.
Old 12-05-2015, 05:20 PM
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Wow... I came into the thread to say that I'd second or third a vote for the ram assist steering... West Texas Offroad does a great job too. Two buddies of mine had their steering upgraded by WTO... recently we went on a wheeling trip that involved a lot of rocks. In one section in particular, my Jeep was flexed out and I was trying to go from almost full lock passenger to full lock driver... and I struggled bad. Had to rock the Jeep back and forth a few times to get the wheel cut over where I wanted. Then, my buddy with his hydro assist steering came behind me, got in the same section and pretty much made me look stupid cause he had one hand on the wheel, making the turn effortlessly. Both of our Jeeps have 35" tires. Needless to say, over the winter, I'll be collecting the parts to have my own hydro assist.... and now I also want to find one ton axles. Crap.
Old 12-05-2015, 07:45 PM
  #49  
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I have had the Fox Stabilizer ($200 Version) and now have the Redneck Ram setup installed. I ran a 3.5" Rock Krawler lift and 37" Goodyear MTRK's with the Fox setup. After lifting my jeep, I had a bit of a bump steer problem. I had it aligned professionally and still had a bit of bump steer. So I went with the Fox stabilizer and it mostly cured my problem. However, when trying to turn the wheel on trails, the stock steering struggled bad. I decided to go with the Redneck Ram. I can't say enough about WTO and this setup. The Ram basically acts as a stabilizer and holds the wheels straight when hitting bumps at speed. My Jeep drives way better than it did with the Fox setup. The wheel feels about the same when driving, but you can feel the assist kick in when turning the wheel while parked. Matt over at WTO put my wheel against a metal beam and used the steering to push the jeep over a bit. I highly recommend the Ram Assist over the stabilizer. Especially if you plan on hitting the trails. Also, something to keep in mind, you will also need to upgrade your tie rod if you go to a Ram Assist. Just my .02



- Jacob
Old 12-06-2015, 04:31 AM
  #50  
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You dont "need" to upgrade your tie rod. I put one on a stock tie rod and 40s and it held up decently. Just dont mount the ram at an odd angle.


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