How to remove the front axle assembly?
#1
JK Super Freak
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How to remove the front axle assembly?
So pretty much I am wondering how hard itd be to swap out a front d30 for a d44. What all needs to be taken off? About how long would it take? Level of difficulty?
I know its a lot of questions, just curious to see how many people have done it on their own and how hard it is. Also if there is a rite up that I am missing feel free to direct me to it, I searched a few things but came up with little
I know its a lot of questions, just curious to see how many people have done it on their own and how hard it is. Also if there is a rite up that I am missing feel free to direct me to it, I searched a few things but came up with little
#2
It shouldn't be to rough a job. The biggest challenge is the brake lines and ESP/ABS wiring.
If your bolts are not to rusty it would go pretty quick. If you are transferring parts from one to the other you will be delayed. I bet a 4 hour job depending on what you run into and how hard you go at it. If you had a friend it would definately go allot faster.
Need to disconnect:
Lower shock
Control arms
Brake lines
ESP/ABS lines
Front Driveline
springs
lower link bolts
track bar
stearing stabilizer
I can't really think of anything else that needs to come off. One challenge would be getting it all setup and still being all aligned. Might want to plan to do the swap and get a alignment right after.
If your bolts are not to rusty it would go pretty quick. If you are transferring parts from one to the other you will be delayed. I bet a 4 hour job depending on what you run into and how hard you go at it. If you had a friend it would definately go allot faster.
Need to disconnect:
Lower shock
Control arms
Brake lines
ESP/ABS lines
Front Driveline
springs
lower link bolts
track bar
stearing stabilizer
I can't really think of anything else that needs to come off. One challenge would be getting it all setup and still being all aligned. Might want to plan to do the swap and get a alignment right after.
#3
JK Super Freak
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It shouldn't be to rough a job. The biggest challenge is the brake lines and ESP/ABS wiring.
If your bolts are not to rusty it would go pretty quick. If you are transferring parts from one to the other you will be delayed. I bet a 4 hour job depending on what you run into and how hard you go at it. If you had a friend it would definately go allot faster.
Need to disconnect:
Lower shock
Control arms
Brake lines
ESP/ABS lines
Front Driveline
springs
lower link bolts
track bar
stearing stabilizer
I can't really think of anything else that needs to come off. One challenge would be getting it all setup and still being all aligned. Might want to plan to do the swap and get a alignment right after.
If your bolts are not to rusty it would go pretty quick. If you are transferring parts from one to the other you will be delayed. I bet a 4 hour job depending on what you run into and how hard you go at it. If you had a friend it would definately go allot faster.
Need to disconnect:
Lower shock
Control arms
Brake lines
ESP/ABS lines
Front Driveline
springs
lower link bolts
track bar
stearing stabilizer
I can't really think of anything else that needs to come off. One challenge would be getting it all setup and still being all aligned. Might want to plan to do the swap and get a alignment right after.
#6
If you have to ask, double that time. If you can't lift 100 lbs, add time. If you don't have two decent floor jacks, add time. If you're doing it alone, add time. If you don't have any power tools, add time. If you got one with a locker, don't include wiring that with the time. I'm not even trying to talk you out of it. It really isn't a bad job. I just don't want you to feel frustrated if the job runs way over four hours. You're guaranteed to run into a snag or two that'll suck up a bunch of time.
-Disconnect all hoses and wires first.
-An impact, either air or electric will really help with getting those larger bolts out.
-Have a long breaker bar handy, that'll also help with loosening some of those nuts. -Make sure you have the Jeep up on some good jack stands, chock the rear wheels (before jacking it up) -be safe.
-Have your computer on and ready. Just about everything you'll want to know from torque specs to how to disconnect the driveline from the front yolk is pretty readily available on this site although you may want to Google it as opposed to using the search button. Sometimes Search gets a little confused about what your asking for. -Search for info by the specific job you're doing as opposed to just "axle swap."
It's been a couple years since I did it and that's all I can remember right now. Good luck, take your time with it and you'll do just fine.
-Disconnect all hoses and wires first.
-An impact, either air or electric will really help with getting those larger bolts out.
-Have a long breaker bar handy, that'll also help with loosening some of those nuts. -Make sure you have the Jeep up on some good jack stands, chock the rear wheels (before jacking it up) -be safe.
-Have your computer on and ready. Just about everything you'll want to know from torque specs to how to disconnect the driveline from the front yolk is pretty readily available on this site although you may want to Google it as opposed to using the search button. Sometimes Search gets a little confused about what your asking for. -Search for info by the specific job you're doing as opposed to just "axle swap."
It's been a couple years since I did it and that's all I can remember right now. Good luck, take your time with it and you'll do just fine.
#7
JK Newbie
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Not terribly difficult, i would PB-Blast or WD-40 the night before just for a little extra help. I recommend using a twin post or similar type hoist if you have access, i have done it with and in a gravel driveway. Two totally different experences but very similar at the same time. Dont forget to refill the diff fluid and bleed the brakes if they are disconnected.
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#8
JK Freak
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If you have to ask, double that time. If you can't lift 100 lbs, add time. If you don't have two decent floor jacks, add time. If you're doing it alone, add time. If you don't have any power tools, add time. If you got one with a locker, don't include wiring that with the time. I'm not even trying to talk you out of it. It really isn't a bad job. I just don't want you to feel frustrated if the job runs way over four hours. You're guaranteed to run into a snag or two that'll suck up a bunch of time.
-Disconnect all hoses and wires first.
-An impact, either air or electric will really help with getting those larger bolts out.
-Have a long breaker bar handy, that'll also help with loosening some of those nuts. -Make sure you have the Jeep up on some good jack stands, chock the rear wheels (before jacking it up) -be safe.
-Have your computer on and ready. Just about everything you'll want to know from torque specs to how to disconnect the driveline from the front yolk is pretty readily available on this site although you may want to Google it as opposed to using the search button. Sometimes Search gets a little confused about what your asking for. -Search for info by the specific job you're doing as opposed to just "axle swap."
It's been a couple years since I did it and that's all I can remember right now. Good luck, take your time with it and you'll do just fine.
-Disconnect all hoses and wires first.
-An impact, either air or electric will really help with getting those larger bolts out.
-Have a long breaker bar handy, that'll also help with loosening some of those nuts. -Make sure you have the Jeep up on some good jack stands, chock the rear wheels (before jacking it up) -be safe.
-Have your computer on and ready. Just about everything you'll want to know from torque specs to how to disconnect the driveline from the front yolk is pretty readily available on this site although you may want to Google it as opposed to using the search button. Sometimes Search gets a little confused about what your asking for. -Search for info by the specific job you're doing as opposed to just "axle swap."
It's been a couple years since I did it and that's all I can remember right now. Good luck, take your time with it and you'll do just fine.
What he said ^ . I've swapped in a d44 and then taken it out again to do gears and a sleeve install. It's not technically challenging, but it is heavy and there are alot of big bolts. Air tools will help shave ALOT of time off the job.