How much weight is too much?
#11
In heavy rock crawling you need low range gearing not more engine power. Proper gearing will give you way more torque than engine mods. You have a decent start towards proper gearing with a Rubicon transfer case at 4.1, now get your diffs regeared to 5.13 and you'll be fine on 37's and whatever weight you carry. If you need more torque than that for rock crawling, which you won't, get an atlas with an even lower low range. Now you will need more engine for a heavy JK doing mud and sand dunes, and of course cruising through the mountains on paved roads lol
#12
Let me rephrase... I always associated gearing with getting on the hwy at a decent speed. I guess that IS torque. But I failed to correlate torque (fwy get up) with torque (on the rocks). I guess I answered my own question and answer. Never mind!!!
#13
JK Enthusiast
I too am running the 3.5" game changer ARB, Synergy high steer.
When you get your game changer ARB edition installed, with the raised rear track bar, and your high steer installed with the raised front track bar, all you concerns of instability and frigile-ness will melt away.
Gearing will fix the weight, I'm running 5.13's with 35's. Keeps up with traffic just fine with leisure driving style, and if I pour on the coals it scoots rather well for what it is.
Weight, I'm running Poison Spyder bumpers with tire carrier and Warn winch, PS rock rails, body armor, full Synergy HD under armor... so pretty heavy rig. When loaded up for the trail with tools, recovery gear, food/beverages... the rig sits flat and solid at 3+" lift, ever so slightly nose high. Unloaded it sits as level as can be.
Photos are unloaded, with rear seat in, ~1/2 tank of gas.
driveway is slightly sloped so, 3/4 photo shows it's level, profile phot makes it appear high in the rear, but it is not...
When you get your game changer ARB edition installed, with the raised rear track bar, and your high steer installed with the raised front track bar, all you concerns of instability and frigile-ness will melt away.
Gearing will fix the weight, I'm running 5.13's with 35's. Keeps up with traffic just fine with leisure driving style, and if I pour on the coals it scoots rather well for what it is.
Weight, I'm running Poison Spyder bumpers with tire carrier and Warn winch, PS rock rails, body armor, full Synergy HD under armor... so pretty heavy rig. When loaded up for the trail with tools, recovery gear, food/beverages... the rig sits flat and solid at 3+" lift, ever so slightly nose high. Unloaded it sits as level as can be.
Photos are unloaded, with rear seat in, ~1/2 tank of gas.
driveway is slightly sloped so, 3/4 photo shows it's level, profile phot makes it appear high in the rear, but it is not...
#14
JK Junkie
With 37s on a 3.6, you'll want to run 4.56 to 4.88 gears, with 4.88 probably being ideal.
Weight is like kryptonite for a JK front axle. If you haven't yet, you will want to truss and gusset the front axle. You'll eventually break the stock axle shafts, but those can be upgraded whenever you want, just make sure you have the right tools for a trail repair.
Most people feel that the brakes don't cut it with 37s, so you may want to keep that in mind as an upgrade.
With 37s, bent flanges on the rear axle is fairly common. Again, most people then upgrade to chromoly.
If you really are going to play in the rocks a lot, just get the Artec armor kit. That will also save your control arm brackets. Time to break out the welder.
Weight is like kryptonite for a JK front axle. If you haven't yet, you will want to truss and gusset the front axle. You'll eventually break the stock axle shafts, but those can be upgraded whenever you want, just make sure you have the right tools for a trail repair.
Most people feel that the brakes don't cut it with 37s, so you may want to keep that in mind as an upgrade.
With 37s, bent flanges on the rear axle is fairly common. Again, most people then upgrade to chromoly.
If you really are going to play in the rocks a lot, just get the Artec armor kit. That will also save your control arm brackets. Time to break out the welder.