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how much did you pay

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Old 01-10-2014, 08:07 AM
  #11  
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Got to agree with the above. Don't pay someone to do this for you it is dead simple even if you have zero experience.
Old 01-10-2014, 08:17 AM
  #12  
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I did the bull-bar mount rather than windshield. Wiring is essentially the same. I have driving (high intensity and directional) lights so I wired them to only go on with hi-beams. The switch mounted in dash below my blinker lever permits or disables the KCs to come on with brights.
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jeepmojo
HAHAHAHAHA...so what you are saying they burn hot?
Old 01-10-2014, 08:30 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Sahara Lee
I did the bull-bar mount rather than windshield. Wiring is essentially the same. I have driving (high intensity and directional) lights so I wired them to only go on with hi-beams. The switch mounted in dash below my blinker lever permits or disables the KCs to come on with brights.
cool how did you insert the switch. and how did you know how to wire them up.
Old 01-10-2014, 08:37 AM
  #15  
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There are several videos out there on you tube. I wired myself using Daystar lower switch panel and rockers. Check out Project-JK for wiring rock lights. It will give you some tips and show you here to run wires as well.
Old 01-10-2014, 10:11 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by stoova
cool how did you insert the switch. and how did you know how to wire them up.
Not sure if this is how he did his, but a simple way lots of people do is:

Tap the high beam wire at the back of the light housing (as shown in the pic)

Run this wire to your switch as the "input"

Wire your switch to the relay as normal.

What this does is makes sure that your switch only had power when your high beams are on. So if you have your new lights turned on and a vehicle appears, all you have to do is pull pull the stalk to turn your high's off and it kills power to the other lights as well.

The only negative to this is you don't have the option of using the new lights by themselves. Your highs must be on (unless you want to get into more complicated wiring schemes) so if your jeep is off and you need light, proceed with caution as 2 sets of lights will kill your battery much faster than 1
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:15 AM
  #17  
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Default instructions wernt so clear

meanwhile just used this Click image for larger version

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ID:	522626 using 6 sheetrock screws securely fastends to the bumper with ease all the tools needed is a cordless screwdriver (shortning of the chain length is optional ) but does help so you don't run it over as your driving off road

Last edited by jeepmojo; 01-10-2014 at 11:21 AM.
Old 01-10-2014, 11:23 AM
  #18  
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How many candlepower is that? Haha!
Old 01-10-2014, 11:52 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jeepmojo
meanwhile just used this Attachment 522625Attachment 522626 using 6 sheetrock screws securely fastends to the bumper with ease all the tools needed is a cordless screwdriver (shortning of the chain length is optional ) but does help so you don't run it over as your driving off road
LOL! That is also rated for interior use!
Old 01-10-2014, 01:57 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by stoova
cool how did you insert the switch. and how did you know how to wire them up.
I mounted the switch in a place you have easy access to when you remove the dash side panel. The dash side panels are easy to remove and replace. (At least on 2010.) Just give them a yank. I tie-rap mounted the relay under the hood in front of the battery on the fender.

I used the passenger side foam-filled hole to get the white and green wires from the passenger compartment to under the hood. White and green wires run from switch under the dash to the battery and relay. Brown wire switch grounded to lug near driver left foot.

Foam filled pass-through holes like this one on both driver and passenger side. Use a stiff wire to fish the light wires through.

Installation instructions I used are here. I used the driving lights option:
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/159254.pdf
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