Sirtreysif

Was sitting here looking at my lift and 37s in the garage because I'm saving up for gears, axles shafts, trusss', sleeves, ball joints, and driveshafts. And I was wondering how many ppl are doing moderate class 3-4 trails with just a lift and 37s? And if there are alot if there has been any carnage and what's the likely cause.

I ran 35 on my 2 door sport with a 5" lift and 3.73 for 2 years wheeling pretty hard trails and never had a squeak. Heard 37s are a whole nother beast.

Offroad_Elements

It really depends how you drive, where you drive, and if you regularly maintain (inspect, torque, grease). No matter how much you build there will always be carnage with challenging moving parts, just set your priorities, maintain, and be safe.

If your ball joints are bad, I would do them sooner than later...

Hinrichs

I have some extra stuff, but for the most part I wheel with 37s, stock 4.10s and 3" lift. Not sure what class 3-4 trails are however, but where I go I can do blacks with not much carnage at all. I do have some skids but still never even hit those yet.

ABENDX

I like this rating system....

Trail Rating System

1. County dirt road maintained for high clearance 2WD and 4WD use in adverse conditions.

2. County dirt road with infrequent or light maintenance after rain or snow, 2WD high clearance with low gears, otherwise light duty 4WD.

3. Road with frequent use, but seldom maintained. Dirt, sand and slick rock surfaces, with mud holes possible (note: maybe impassable when wet due to soil composition.). 4WD recommended under most circumstances due to ruts or wash erosion.

4. Road surface consisting of loose rock, dirt, and sand with some slickrock surfaces. Erosion, washes, gulches and rock steps no higher than 12". 4WD is recommended with good ground clearance and driving skills. Aggressive tires and limited slip would be a plus. Water and mud is possible.

5. Road surfaces are rutted, rocky and sandy with steps not exceeding 14", with considerable slickrock surfaces. Water not exceeding 12" with some mud possible. Good vehicle approach and departure angles are helpful. Tall tires (33" plus) and traction added device (lockers, limited slips) is recommended. Above average driving skills are desirable.

6. Roads are difficult with considerable erosion damage repaired just enough to be passable. Water in excess of 12" is possible with mud conditions. Steps not exceeding 24". Tall tires (33" plus) with traction added devices (lockers, limited slips) are recommended. A winch would be a plus. Enhanced suspension travel and ground clearance are helpful. Excellent driving skills are recommended.

7. Trail consists of rock; sand and considerable slickrock with many steps exceeding 24". Steep inclines and declines are prevalent. Enhanced off road equipment is required including locking devices (front & rear), tall tires, maximum vehicle ground clearance, and tow hooks. A winch is desirable. Excellent driving skills are required. Vehicle mechanical or body damage is likely. Roll over possibilities exist.

8. Extreme trail similar to #7 except a bit more extreme. Excellent driving skills are required. Vehicle damage is likely. Equipment or mechanical damage is probable.

9. Extreme and beyond, similar to #8. Vehicle damage is likely. Excellent driving skills are required. Roll over is very common. Winches, spare parts and tools are recommended. Be prepared to spend the night on the trail. Beyond the capability of most modified stock vehicles.

10. Let the carnage begin! Buggy territory. Street driven 4X4’s should not attempt this trail. Modified factory vehicles will not be able to complete this trail.

@OP: I'd personally be proactive, but everyone's different. You will break on this setup. The amount of time it takes is all in the amount of luck you bring to the table. Also... how does this scale fit you? Might get better answers if we are all on the same page.

EsByrd

I have 3.5" suspension and 1" body with 37s, I run alot of 3 and 4s and have put right at 20k miles on my trails grapplers with only a bent axle shaft flange and a leaky wheel seal

Schlieko

I replaced the axle shaft up front before going to 37s. I have Trxus M/Ts. Not sure if it depends on the tire, but these tires are big and heavy. I am doing gussets next and will replace the rear axle shaft within 6 months.

boon4376

Your priorities are different than mine. I'm stock lift, stock tires (32"), and I can get into enough trouble. FWIW, I can also keep up very well with guys who have a 3" lift and 35's on 3-4 trails

My first mods were differential skids on front and rear, and the rock hard oil pan / transmission skid. Rock rails that are welded to the frame are next on the list, as well as flipping the steering damper out of harms way.

Come down on one thing a little too hard and you've just cost yourself a ton of money. A lift + tires only gets you a few more inches of clearance from rocks and a ton of very valuable stuff is left exposed.

genesbro

I offroad mine with 35s and no lift. I did however trim the fenders like flat fender style for clearance.

JKphotoshoot

I wheeled lots of 4 and 5's in Arkansas, Missouri and Alabama with 37s and a 4 inch lift on stock axles with only gussets for a year or so. Then added gears and lockers and axle upgrades.
That 1- 10 trail rating is more for out west. Now living out in Utah I do 7-8's without to much carnage.

BRUT4CE

Your be OK more than likely for a bit....just drive smart don't spin and hop tires on stuff....axles can bend with stock stuff driven hard.
I ran 37's no c-gussetts or sleeves for a couple runs that were pretty nasty but it was on my mind ....figured if they went south I'd build some tons....

However my ball joints made it 2 trips and they were smoked.....

So I'd say you would be OK for a while just slap 2.5" lift team fenders and rear pinch seam, bit PLAN ON making said upgrades....

That being said my axles are built to the max and stock 4:10 gears, when they destroy or wife is cool with bigger project then I'll do the tons and 40s....