Nwapache

To me, a fuse is like a fire extinguisher....it's nice to have but I hope I never need it. There are a couple of stories where an improper bend in the power cable caused the insulation to melt and started arcing. A fuse would be a big benefit.
Of course, like my fire extinguisher, the 500 amp fuse I have is in a box on my jeep because I haven't mounted it yet

_J__C_

I'll look for the write-up, but I read somewhere that a fuse is hard to do for a winch because of the amp or voltage draw? Something to do with having a problem and not drawing enough to blow a fuse. Like it draws more power when in heavy use than it would if there was a problem/short. It confuses me a little since I don't know a lot about amperage/voltage etc.. I'll find the thread and post it. I have read somewhere of a switch being installed, keep it off when not in use and if you have an issue while in use, just flip the switch.

_J__C_

Well Google brought up a ton of options and I couldn't find the thread I had mentioned above. It seems very doable, which isn't what that write-up said at all.

Ryan0260

I just run a quick disconnect on mine and keep it unhooked unless I plan to use it. Fuse not a bad idea though

SiliconTi

I've been thinking about this for a few hours.

A disconnect is the only option, I feel, and here is why:

If a cable chafes though, it will have to draw 500 amps to melt the fuse. That is a *sh*tload* of energy - my welder used 180 amps to melt 1/4 steel. If a cable rubs through and shorts, it is unlikely to draw that much current unless it was a dead short - say and accident caused a cable to shear through. A small break/rub in the insulation can draw anything from 1 amp to 400 and still not melt the fuse, but sure will cause a fire. I have had cables catch fire with a 25 amp fuse - and the fuse did not blow because the current draw, though enough for a fire (heat), it was not enough to melt the fuse.

bazillus

I've got an switch for the red wire:

On the street there is no power, much safer if there is an accident and the winch is shortened infront of the other car, no fire, no melting wires...
On the trails I jump out, open the hood, turn the key and i'm done

Biginboca

I think this is THE way to go...

I have never been in a winching situation where having to take an extra minute to flip a switch would have mattered, but I do worry about being in a front end collision on the street and causing a direct short.

JK-Ford

It is true that a fuse is not needed when your winch is disconnected from the battery. But a fuse should be used when it is connected. Unless you are capable of reaching through the fire to disconnect the winch. The fuse should be rated for the maximum current capabilities of the wire connected between the battery and the winch. If the fuse is rated higher than this, then the wire is the fuse. And the fuse is useless. If you use a resetable fuse, you could reset the fuse ( after cool down ) for current spikes. Time delay fuses are acceptable for motor current ratings higher than circuit ratings.

Freewill

Agree completely. This post has it right. A winch motor draws huge power. By the time you get a fuse big enough to supply the motor without blowing, you have the equivalent of 1 guage wire without any fuse. Doesn't provide much protection against fire.

A disconnect seems like a good idea. A disconnected cable will not start a fire, and during winch operation you can quickly disconnect the winch in case something strange happens and things start smokiing.

ronjenx

Maybe your stereo drew too many amps for the circuit.

A fuse is required to protect the circuit, not the appliance. The appliance has it's own internal protection.

Look at the cigarette socket, for instance. It has a 20 amp fuse to protect the wire.
If it was there to protect whatever you plugged into it, you would have to change the fuse value for a GPS, or whatever low draw item you plug in.