How High Can I Go?
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How high can I lift my 2009 Rubicon 2 door without having to do drive line modifications?
also what type of load rating should my coils have?
Notes:
(I have a steel bumper with a winch on the front and a modified smitty built tire carrier on the back that it causing my rear end to drop)
I really hate it when the back sags down. when my Gerry can is full and i carry a few extra pounds the back the suspension is almost bottomed out with a rubicon express 2" spacer lift.
also what type of load rating should my coils have?
Notes:
(I have a steel bumper with a winch on the front and a modified smitty built tire carrier on the back that it causing my rear end to drop)
I really hate it when the back sags down. when my Gerry can is full and i carry a few extra pounds the back the suspension is almost bottomed out with a rubicon express 2" spacer lift.
#2
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How high can I lift my 2009 Rubicon 2 door without having to do drive line modifications?
also what type of load rating should my coils have?
Notes:
(I have a steel bumper with a winch on the front and a modified smitty built tire carrier on the back that it causing my rear end to drop)
I really hate it when the back sags down. when my Gerry can is full and i carry a few extra pounds the back the suspension is almost bottomed out with a rubicon express 2" spacer lift.
also what type of load rating should my coils have?
Notes:
(I have a steel bumper with a winch on the front and a modified smitty built tire carrier on the back that it causing my rear end to drop)
I really hate it when the back sags down. when my Gerry can is full and i carry a few extra pounds the back the suspension is almost bottomed out with a rubicon express 2" spacer lift.
Search function, just kidding.
With a 2 door you are lookin' at 2 1/2" suspension max with out a new rear DS. You can run stock rear with 3 1/2" but in less that 10K the CV joint will go out.
I have 3 1/2" rubicon exress and am running the stock front and it is right at the limit FYI. The jump in money from a 2 1/2" to the next step is huge, if done correctly.
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Search function, just kidding.
With a 2 door you are lookin' at 2 1/2" suspension max with out a new rear DS. You can run stock rear with 3 1/2" but in less that 10K the CV joint will go out.
I have 3 1/2" rubicon exress and am running the stock front and it is right at the limit FYI. The jump in money from a 2 1/2" to the next step is huge, if done correctly.
With a 2 door you are lookin' at 2 1/2" suspension max with out a new rear DS. You can run stock rear with 3 1/2" but in less that 10K the CV joint will go out.
I have 3 1/2" rubicon exress and am running the stock front and it is right at the limit FYI. The jump in money from a 2 1/2" to the next step is huge, if done correctly.
Stick to a 2" lift to be safe
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Well, I have a 2DR and 3.25" up front (TF BB and TF 3/4" spacer above it). 2.5" TF BB in the rear. Been running them for about 30,000 miles without an issue and wheel it every month for close to 2 years now, and hard at that. Stock drivelines, no issues, joints and boots intact.
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I spoke to a TeraFlex rep and a local 4WD shop, and they all told me I don't need to upgrade my drive shafts with the TeraFlex 3" lift kit. And on the 2 door soft top, that's going to be about a 4" lift. Again, this information was from the experts.
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Ask them if they'll pay for the new driveshafts when they rip apart, they are giving you a line of BS.
Last edited by Piginajeep; 10-29-2009 at 08:12 AM.
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Well, I have a 2DR and 3.25" up front (TF BB and TF 3/4" spacer above it). 2.5" TF BB in the rear. Been running them for about 30,000 miles without an issue and wheel it every month for close to 2 years now, and hard at that. Stock drivelines, no issues, joints and boots intact.
here's a quote from today in another thread
My Teraflex 2.5 coil lift ended up being 3.5" in the front and 2.5" in the back (on my 2-door X). This made it necessary to get the driveshaft upgrades and reset driveline angles (my rear DS seal lasted about 500 miles, started leaking on my first off-road trip after the lift). Don't use cam bolts to set the angles, get adjustable rear-upper and front-lower control arms.
Did you extend your bump stops? if not you'll over compress the coils flexing out.
Last edited by Piginajeep; 10-29-2009 at 08:17 AM.
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unfortunately, whoever you talked to doesn't know what the hell they are talking about. personally, i would steer clear of the 4WD shop you talked to and someone at TF should be told that their reps are giving out bad info.
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A TeraFlex 3" on a 2dr (makes for a 5" kit), definitely new shafts front and rear. Adding adjustable control arms is highly suggested. On a 4dr at least the front with a auto, but count on the rear some day.