Skimmed through all the posts on this and if I'm being redundant my apologies up front. Having been through all the steps in upgrading the stock front housing on a Rubicon I've come to the conclusion had I to do it again I wouldn't spend a penny on one. Use that money for a quality aftermarket replacement housing that's angle corrected and move on. Hell, even Mopar is offering an upgrade housing. If you can swing the cash for a bump up to a good D60, so much the better. Just my $.02 worth.

 

If I was told correctly, the 44s are the same as used on the 3/4 ton Dodge truck. Those are pretty intense for a little jeep..... even a 4 door.

Get a good lift and run 37s or as Toyo reads, 37.5s.

 

JK's have their own axles and gears, they are not off-the-shelf axles from a full size truck. The JK 44 housing actually has the same specs as the JK d30 housing. Same length, tube diameter, wall thickness, same c's. (They even use the same brakes, same hubs, and outer axle shafts.) These housings are not really known for their strength, which is why there is so much talk about beefing them up.

 

I'm seriously questioning the strength of the stock 44's since I twisted the rear housing on mine. If I had the money I would just scrap the stock axles and get 1 tons. Front 44's have the same C's as the D30. The aftermarket 44's are better but for the prices they want for them you can spend a little more and get a 1 ton.

 

just curious... what upgrade would have prevented that type of break? Not sure any truss actually makes contact in the middle.

 

Weld around where the tube meets the differential

 

Or a truss.

 

if the truss only welds on the tubes how would that help? I don't pretend know ANYTHING about this topic. Need info

 

Most that I have seen weld to the pumpkin as well. Downside to welding to tubes to the diff is that as the welds cool, they want to pull the tubes out. So, you're trying to take stress off the plug welds, but you've actually increases it.

 

If 37's is the end game I think you can make factory axles work. Need to stay as narrow as possible (4.5" backspace wheels can work if you are willing to make clearance and adjustments.). Upgrade axle shafts and expect to bend rear flanges, which won't leave you stranded but is annoying. Upgrade ball joints to aftermarket when they fail early. Upgrade brakes cause the factory ones won't cut it. Truss and gusset the front axle. Weld the tubes on the rear axle. Regear to recover the power you lost. Be smart don't bounce rig and pull cable if you can't make an obstacle in a few tries.

Once you have done all this you'll be where I have been for the last 4 years. No breakage but a few bent flanges. And wondering why you didn't save your $$ and buy better axles instead of dumping $$ into weak ass 44's... lol

If you want to run anything over 37's do not pass go sell Rubi axles and move to Dana 60's/14B/Sterling. Even running 38's, and especially 13.5" wide ones, you are outside what's sensible.