How to build up my rubi 44s
07-13-2016, 10:51 AM
#21
JK Enthusiast
From what I understand about the warranty, anything that breaks that was originally on the vehicle is covered for life, as long as the reason it broke was not directly caused by something I added. For example, I put on a cold air intake and dirt gets sucked into the engine, engine is not covered. I keep stock air box and dirt gets in the engine while wheeling, it is covered. The axles are arguable either way for coverage. Bigger tires might put extra stress on everything, but who is to say that they would not have broken doing the same off-roading with the stock tires. I was ensured by the GM that the warranty company would have to prove that one directly caused the other, which is very difficult. Worse case scenario, warranty company denies the claim, I take them to small claims court, jury always sides in favor of little customer and not with big bad auto manufacturer selling cheap warranties...
Personally I would bank on the warranty your paying/payed for first...
In some ways its like buying an extra motor.. just in case the current one blows... then it never blows.. and it had a warranty.. ( just an opinion )
Also I would consider 37s over the 38s for various reasons
The stock C's are usually bent by heavier wheels, so that would be good reason for C-gussets so that warranty people cant argue the heavier wheels/tires were the cause
Note too just because you upgrade a part, doesn't make it bullet proof... Chromo shafts, gears, ball joints ect ect of aftermarket parts can break and fail as well as stock.. ( only less likely )
07-13-2016, 11:43 AM
#22
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Generally speaking, 38" tires will void the warranty on the entire drivetrain. That tire size far exceeds the capacity of every component. Next issue is that even in a bone stock JK, if you were to break something like a u-joint while wheeling, it is deniable under warranty. Some dealers will be good about it, but technically it broke from abuse from the perspective of the warranty.
For every person who runs big tires on stock axles without issues, there is someone who has had issues. 38s create a good amount more stress on everything. I was behind a guy on an easy trail and he didn't have hydro assist. He cranked the wheels and sheared the steering box off the frame. If you don't do that, you'll eventually wear the box out. $700 part.
You'll burn through ball joints and steering parts, unit bearings, rear axle shafts and bearings, etc. If you don't truss the front axle, plan on it bending if you go wheeling. The wheel backspace you'll need will over stress everything. And you're going to need to push the wheels out a ton. 37s on 3.5" backspace will rub.
Running 38s is essentially the equivalent of 40s because of the width. In fact, if you clear 38s you can clear 40s.
Lastly, it's pretty easy to break the front ring and pinion with big tires.
For every person who runs big tires on stock axles without issues, there is someone who has had issues. 38s create a good amount more stress on everything. I was behind a guy on an easy trail and he didn't have hydro assist. He cranked the wheels and sheared the steering box off the frame. If you don't do that, you'll eventually wear the box out. $700 part.
You'll burn through ball joints and steering parts, unit bearings, rear axle shafts and bearings, etc. If you don't truss the front axle, plan on it bending if you go wheeling. The wheel backspace you'll need will over stress everything. And you're going to need to push the wheels out a ton. 37s on 3.5" backspace will rub.
Running 38s is essentially the equivalent of 40s because of the width. In fact, if you clear 38s you can clear 40s.
Lastly, it's pretty easy to break the front ring and pinion with big tires.
07-13-2016, 12:29 PM
#23
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Generally speaking, 38" tires will void the warranty on the entire drivetrain. That tire size far exceeds the capacity of every component. Next issue is that even in a bone stock JK, if you were to break something like a u-joint while wheeling, it is deniable under warranty. Some dealers will be good about it, but technically it broke from abuse from the perspective of the warranty.
For every person who runs big tires on stock axles without issues, there is someone who has had issues. 38s create a good amount more stress on everything. I was behind a guy on an easy trail and he didn't have hydro assist. He cranked the wheels and sheared the steering box off the frame. If you don't do that, you'll eventually wear the box out. $700 part.
You'll burn through ball joints and steering parts, unit bearings, rear axle shafts and bearings, etc. If you don't truss the front axle, plan on it bending if you go wheeling. The wheel backspace you'll need will over stress everything. And you're going to need to push the wheels out a ton. 37s on 3.5" backspace will rub.
Running 38s is essentially the equivalent of 40s because of the width. In fact, if you clear 38s you can clear 40s.
Lastly, it's pretty easy to break the front ring and pinion with big tires.
For every person who runs big tires on stock axles without issues, there is someone who has had issues. 38s create a good amount more stress on everything. I was behind a guy on an easy trail and he didn't have hydro assist. He cranked the wheels and sheared the steering box off the frame. If you don't do that, you'll eventually wear the box out. $700 part.
You'll burn through ball joints and steering parts, unit bearings, rear axle shafts and bearings, etc. If you don't truss the front axle, plan on it bending if you go wheeling. The wheel backspace you'll need will over stress everything. And you're going to need to push the wheels out a ton. 37s on 3.5" backspace will rub.
Running 38s is essentially the equivalent of 40s because of the width. In fact, if you clear 38s you can clear 40s.
Lastly, it's pretty easy to break the front ring and pinion with big tires.
07-13-2016, 12:57 PM
#24
JK Freak
I'd suggest checking the fine print. I believe there is a line that says "We reserve the right to cancel the Plan after issuance should it be discovered that the vehicle is ineligible or has been altered/modified to make it ineligible after Plan coverage has been in effect".
07-13-2016, 01:37 PM
#25
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Unless I was lied to by the finance manager and the general manager, who I personally know, the max care warranty is "no questions asked". Even if I do break something, I can clean my jeep and say it happened on the road. Any denied claim from a warranty company is arguable if you are willing to do that. Jeeps, especially rubicons, are designed and purchased with off-roading in mind and to deny a claim simply for the fact that the failure happened off pavement is bullshit. They should not be allowed to sell the warranty on a vehicle designed and labeled to be trail rated if it will void warranty, especially if the tv commercials advertising the vehicle show the jeep playing on trails! But the flip side of all of this is that afternarket warranties are still designed to be sources of revenue for the company that issues them, so it would be in their best interest to deny anything that they can argue, they might just decide to pay for it if I fight back. But on my 08 wrangler, which I bought a power train warranty on when I purchased it used, I blew the ring and pinion in the rear end while wheeling in mud. Went to work, got my detail department to clean it real good, filed a claim, and BAM! $4000 rear end replaced under warranty, all I had to do was pay a $100 deductible.
The Rubicon was designed to be capable offroad. Broken parts that occur while offroad are not the responsibility of the manufacturer. Just as your auto insurance doesn't cover your vehicle when off-road. If you break a u joint in a stock JK (happens all the time) it is driver error.
Also, your detail shop would have a hard time polishing a broken axle housing.
07-13-2016, 01:48 PM
#26
Super Moderator
If you're going to do whatever you want anyways and already intend on defrauding the warranty providing company then why bother to get anyone on the forums involved?
Enjoy the lie of a warranty they sold you. You bought a daily driver, not a monster truck. Sell the jeep and buy a buggy- then you can run 38's all day long without scamming anyone and taxing the rest of that utilize the warranty properly.
Read the fine print on what "trail rated" is and rest easy knowing that the Patriot is also trail rated.
Enjoy the lie of a warranty they sold you. You bought a daily driver, not a monster truck. Sell the jeep and buy a buggy- then you can run 38's all day long without scamming anyone and taxing the rest of that utilize the warranty properly.
Read the fine print on what "trail rated" is and rest easy knowing that the Patriot is also trail rated.
07-13-2016, 02:06 PM
#27
JK Junkie
I blew my rear under the "Warranty" they would not honor it since everything was gutted except the housing. They said since the internals were upgraded the housing failed due to stronger internals.
Last edited by Jonathan_JK; 07-13-2016 at 02:30 PM.
07-13-2016, 05:13 PM
#29
If you're going to do whatever you want anyways and already intend on defrauding the warranty providing company then why bother to get anyone on the forums involved? Enjoy the lie of a warranty they sold you. You bought a daily driver, not a monster truck. Sell the jeep and buy a buggy- then you can run 38's all day long without scamming anyone and taxing the rest of that utilize the warranty properly. Read the fine print on what "trail rated" is and rest easy knowing that the Patriot is also trail rated.
07-14-2016, 04:38 AM
#30
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
I'm not bragging about it, just simply telling you what my experience has been with service contracts. We have a 2011 jeep with 80,000 miles on it in our service department right now that is sitting on 37x13.50s that needs a new transmission, warranty company is paying for it. You can argue that the tires caused the tranny to fail, but they are still picking up the bill.