RamseyPantaleon

I'm running 37s on a Dana 30, but I sleeved, gusseted the Cs, chromoly shafts, and upgraded too 4.88s.

Wbradshaw6

So this is what I have worked up so far, tell me if I am wrong:
Front:
RCV axles 1200
Sleeves 125
Gears 600
Gussets 80
Did cover 200
Totals 2205 for parts

New Dana 60 front with lockers that excepts my brakes and wheel is about 7500

Rear:
Sleeve 125
Gussets 80
Chromoly axles 350
Totals 555

New Dana 60 rear is 4500

How much can I sell my 2016 rubi D44 front and rear for? I bought the jeep, drove it home, and have been driving my truck since, so everything is essentially still brand new.

PsychoCupcake

No sleeves or gussets for the rear. C-gussets are for the front only and I don't think I've heard of anyone sleeving the rear axle tubes. Truss maybe, but not the other two.

twinz33

Let me understand this. Say you throw on 38's and go wheeling, bend a shaft or blow a r&p then it's replaced under warranty? Then why change anything? Maybe some c-gussets and call it a day.. Wheel it until it breaks... What if that takes 6 months of abuse, something gives and replace under warranty? Get another 6 months and all you've paid is your warranty in a years time..

Maybe I'm looking at this differently but the stock 44s can handle more than some think and if it's under warranty then use the warranty.

Friend of mine who wheels Windrock and many other places regularly lasted a year on coil overs, 37in toyo mt on slabs with just c-gussets before bending a rear shaft in his 2010 rubi jku

RamseyPantaleon

I'd add another $1000 for labor for the front. The rear is already strong enough, you won't need anything more than the gears, and a truss. If you plan on doing serious wheeling and don't want too worry about anything breaking. You'll probably be spending another 6 grand for a set of built Dana 60s.

vitodivita

The only modification I would do to that front axle is c gussets. Past that id throw a pro rock up front and regear the rear axle.

PsychoCupcake

I'll say that, in my opinion, chromoly shafts for the rear are a must. From a company that warranties bent flanges. With a JKU on 38s, it doesn't take much to bend a rear axle flange.

Wbradshaw6

From what I understand about the warranty, anything that breaks that was originally on the vehicle is covered for life, as long as the reason it broke was not directly caused by something I added. For example, I put on a cold air intake and dirt gets sucked into the engine, engine is not covered. I keep stock air box and dirt gets in the engine while wheeling, it is covered. The axles are arguable either way for coverage. Bigger tires might put extra stress on everything, but who is to say that they would not have broken doing the same off-roading with the stock tires. I was ensured by the GM that the warranty company would have to prove that one directly caused the other, which is very difficult. Worse case scenario, warranty company denies the claim, I take them to small claims court, jury always sides in favor of little customer and not with big bad auto manufacturer selling cheap warranties...

nthinuf

For your axle pricing, again, check out Fusion 4x4. Their front d60 should be around $4500. A rear Sterling 10.5 or GM 14bolt should be around $3750. Decent savings over Ultimates or Prorocks or whatever. (I have a prorock, so I am kind of partial to dynatrac. Just throwing this out there as a cost saving alternative...)

Prices for used rubi44's are all over the place. Sometimes you will see great deals, even on already built up axles, and then there are people asking more than the cost of buying brand new. Check your local craigslist to see if you can find out what the market is locally to you. Maybe $3500 for the pair would be a place to start?

Also worth noting that new axles would have a different bolt pattern and overall widths. So include the rims/wheel spacers into the decision.

Wbradshaw6

Every time I talk to the warranty company, all they tell me is that anything added to the vehicle is not covered by the bumper to bumper warranty and anything that breaks will not be covered if the reason it broke was directly caused by a non-covered aftermarket component. Very vague wording on their part but what else would you expect. Like I said earlier, I am in the auto business and will be more than happy to argue with them if they try to deny a claim.