how about this cheap upgrade?
11-11-2009, 06:38 AM
#31
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Suspensions aren't setup that way. Most have a lot of down travel and a lot less up travel. The shock isn't setup neutrally.
You will find that there a lot of opinions on lift kits. LOTS. Most of opinions based on where someone already spent their money, not geometry, quality of components, etc....
Wheel travel is important, but not the end all be all. Tires, weight balance, lockers, driver skill... lots of things factor into how far down the trail you get.
Choose a quality lift with quality components and you're likely to get quality performance. But a lot of it is populatiry contest. I could throw out 4 names and you'd get the fanboys, the haters, and the in betweens. Few of them have actually pushed their cars to the limit with multiple kits under identical conditions to know what's really best.
You're in Florida. You might see some RTI ramps, but mostly its sand, mud, and a few rutted out roads. Tire selection is as important as anything else.
If you were in a different part of the country, you would have different needs. I dumped my 60s, atlas 700r4 TJ for a high hp CJ I built when I moved cross country. I needed to get power to the ground fast, not crawl.
You will find that there a lot of opinions on lift kits. LOTS. Most of opinions based on where someone already spent their money, not geometry, quality of components, etc....
Wheel travel is important, but not the end all be all. Tires, weight balance, lockers, driver skill... lots of things factor into how far down the trail you get.
Choose a quality lift with quality components and you're likely to get quality performance. But a lot of it is populatiry contest. I could throw out 4 names and you'd get the fanboys, the haters, and the in betweens. Few of them have actually pushed their cars to the limit with multiple kits under identical conditions to know what's really best.
You're in Florida. You might see some RTI ramps, but mostly its sand, mud, and a few rutted out roads. Tire selection is as important as anything else.
If you were in a different part of the country, you would have different needs. I dumped my 60s, atlas 700r4 TJ for a high hp CJ I built when I moved cross country. I needed to get power to the ground fast, not crawl.
Thanks, I got this point:
>>Suspensions aren't setup that way. Most have a lot of down travel and a >>lot less up travel. The shock isn't setup neutrally
So what you said is shocks are compressed more than neutral when traveling on flat road. Therefore, its up travel is less than down travel.
But just theoritically, which suspension kit gives more articulation, putting other factors out?
11-11-2009, 06:46 AM
#32
Honestly, I have no idea. The answer is in who runs the longest extended length shock.
Don't tell anyone, but they're all going to be fairly close to the same. Wildly long shocks extended are also wildly long compressed, so there's not going to be anybody running a shock that's SUPER long travel.
Now here's where you can make some gains.... Off Road Evolution is offering kits with remote reservoir shocks which can be packaged a little longer than a standard shock with an internal res. Also they offer kits that utilize coilovers in completely new mounting brackets. THAT offers a whole host of advantages that are outside of the typical suspension kit. But the cost is greater. The performance gains from a set up like OREs is monunmental. They can control a LOT more than the typical coil, shock, arms kit. Coilovers allow for adjustable spring rate, ride height, rebound, compression etc...
Don't tell anyone, but they're all going to be fairly close to the same. Wildly long shocks extended are also wildly long compressed, so there's not going to be anybody running a shock that's SUPER long travel.
Now here's where you can make some gains.... Off Road Evolution is offering kits with remote reservoir shocks which can be packaged a little longer than a standard shock with an internal res. Also they offer kits that utilize coilovers in completely new mounting brackets. THAT offers a whole host of advantages that are outside of the typical suspension kit. But the cost is greater. The performance gains from a set up like OREs is monunmental. They can control a LOT more than the typical coil, shock, arms kit. Coilovers allow for adjustable spring rate, ride height, rebound, compression etc...
11-11-2009, 10:16 AM
#33
JK Junkie
my bad. it did seem to me like finding out that you can take the top off.
11-11-2009, 10:21 AM
#34
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You could buy a pair of used stock flares for cheap and experiment with modifying them to get the clearance you need. Maybe add a cheep spacer lift and get 32s to fit. PM me if you want my used stock flares for cheap.
11-11-2009, 10:40 AM
#35
JK Junkie
why don't you show some of my real answers I'm sure there are plenty of...
11-11-2009, 10:52 AM
#38
JK Junkie
pwn3d. LOVE IT!
He's always sarcastic and contributes nothing, don't worry.
It is a good idea to cut the flares though. People have the flat fenders and sometimes, get body damage. They don't flex. I cut my factory flares, they bend indefinitely, and spring back up with no body damage. I'm on TF 2.5" with 35s. and still have about an inch more to rub on full flex.
He's always sarcastic and contributes nothing, don't worry.
It is a good idea to cut the flares though. People have the flat fenders and sometimes, get body damage. They don't flex. I cut my factory flares, they bend indefinitely, and spring back up with no body damage. I'm on TF 2.5" with 35s. and still have about an inch more to rub on full flex.
11-11-2009, 10:59 AM
#39
JK Junkie
11-11-2009, 12:02 PM
#40
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Seems like the main point is you don't need flat fenders to run 33's. If you're worried about clearance, you can get a leveling kit for a lot cheaper than flat fenders.
From a purely aesthetic perspective (just my opinion), flat fenders look goofy on anything smaller than 35" tires.
From a purely aesthetic perspective (just my opinion), flat fenders look goofy on anything smaller than 35" tires.