Hitch Recievers - Are they all the same?
#13
I have a Smittybilt hitch and a Rugged Ridge trailor harness. Some of the hitches "stick out" farther than others. I wish mine stuck out farther because the JKU's spare tire hits my trailor jack before I can open the tailgate far enough to remove items from the cargo area.
#16
JK Enthusiast
Dont mean to hijack the thread but I saw some were on one of the forums that the guy fliped the hitch up side down and notched his bumper for more clearance anyone know of this or a writeup? Cant seem to find it
Thanks
Thanks
#17
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: North Jersey
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Seems like the integrity of the hitch will be compromised and I honestly can't imagine the end result off the top of my head. One that makes sense anyway..
#18
I removed my factory reciever and tossed it after I looked at some aftermarket class III rated recievers.
The Mopar reciever is NOT as strong as some of the aftermarket ones. I bought a Rugged ridge at the local 4x4 shop. The reciever throat is thicker steel and has a second layer welded around it. The weldes are fully boxed at the back and re-enforced where they attach to the sub frame mounts. Going on 4 years now it's fine, I still check it often for weld cracks or rust. i believe the stock reciever is only rated class II, 250 lbs.
May not look like much of a difference in person but I use mine alot and don't want to risk failure.
The Mopar reciever is NOT as strong as some of the aftermarket ones. I bought a Rugged ridge at the local 4x4 shop. The reciever throat is thicker steel and has a second layer welded around it. The weldes are fully boxed at the back and re-enforced where they attach to the sub frame mounts. Going on 4 years now it's fine, I still check it often for weld cracks or rust. i believe the stock reciever is only rated class II, 250 lbs.
May not look like much of a difference in person but I use mine alot and don't want to risk failure.
#19
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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I removed my factory reciever and tossed it after I looked at some aftermarket class III rated recievers.
The Mopar reciever is NOT as strong as some of the aftermarket ones. I bought a Rugged ridge at the local 4x4 shop. The reciever throat is thicker steel and has a second layer welded around it. The weldes are fully boxed at the back and re-enforced where they attach to the sub frame mounts. Going on 4 years now it's fine, I still check it often for weld cracks or rust. i believe the stock reciever is only rated class II, 250 lbs.
May not look like much of a difference in person but I use mine alot and don't want to risk failure.
The Mopar reciever is NOT as strong as some of the aftermarket ones. I bought a Rugged ridge at the local 4x4 shop. The reciever throat is thicker steel and has a second layer welded around it. The weldes are fully boxed at the back and re-enforced where they attach to the sub frame mounts. Going on 4 years now it's fine, I still check it often for weld cracks or rust. i believe the stock reciever is only rated class II, 250 lbs.
May not look like much of a difference in person but I use mine alot and don't want to risk failure.
I'm shopping for a hitch receiver too and this is very useful info. Thanks!
#20
JK Enthusiast
To give you an idea of the difference in how far some stick out. Keep in mind, I ditched my factory bumper. The top hitch (attached to the jeep) is the factory hitch with factory plug. If my bumper were still attached, the square opening would sit right at the far back edge of the bumper.
The bottom hitch (the one sitting on the floor) is Hidden Hitch. It has a MUCH longer tube, even more so than what you can tell in the pic because of the angle. The chain attachment points are different and the way one would attach the plug is a mystery (there is a flat spot of metal available, I can only assume the intent is to zip tie it there).
So, I would say there are significant differences in the construction and appearance of both. With the Hidden Hitch and the non-factory harness, I often left the wires just kinda dangle. It was unappealing to me.
With the factory hitch and factory wiring kit, the look is WAY cleaner.
The bottom hitch (the one sitting on the floor) is Hidden Hitch. It has a MUCH longer tube, even more so than what you can tell in the pic because of the angle. The chain attachment points are different and the way one would attach the plug is a mystery (there is a flat spot of metal available, I can only assume the intent is to zip tie it there).
So, I would say there are significant differences in the construction and appearance of both. With the Hidden Hitch and the non-factory harness, I often left the wires just kinda dangle. It was unappealing to me.
With the factory hitch and factory wiring kit, the look is WAY cleaner.