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Modified JK TechTech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.
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Hi, newbie here. My 09 JKU is kind of “wandering” after a balljoints (Teraflex HD) replacement. The jeep had the DW and BJ replacement fixed it. The shop that did the job is not touching the Jeep because they say is an alignment issue. The tire shop that did the alignment says is Caster and Toe out of spec and there are nothing they can do. BTW they have tried to align it 3 times. The last report is attached.
So if someone had experience the same issue and want to help I will gladly appreciate it. Also I noticed the passenger boot for the Rancho Steering Stabilizer is shredded to pieces. It wasn’t like that before the BJ work.
The shop that did the job is not touching the Jeep because they say is an alignment issue. The tire shop that did the alignment says is Caster and Toe out of spec and there are nothing they can do.
Do you have some form of caster correction currently? I see on the sheet they note caster is adjustable, but it sounds like they’ve maxed that out maybe. Do you have cam bolts in the axle’s lower control arm mounts? Your caster is really low at <3*, and should be up over 4*. If you have no caster correction, you need to look in to some form. If you have cam bolts, you need to look at cam bolt deletes + control arm brackets or adjustable control arms if you want to remedy the caster. Keep in mind that caster from the factory is 4.2*, and you should expect to see a vast improvement in driving if you get your caster back up in that range. Outside of adjustable BJs, you just live with the camber.
I suspect that you just need to let your BJs break in a bit as you're probably experiencing some tight steering. That is a pretty normal thing after replacing ball joints.
Is the jeep lifted? If so, you're going to want more like 5* castor minimum. They just drive a lot better that way. Adjustable upper arms are cheap, and will give you the ability to set it correctly. not much you can do with the camber, but it's not terrible.
Looks like when they adjusted the toe, the didn't loosen the clamps for your steering stabilizer, or didn't tighten them back in the correct spot to provide clearance between that boot and the tie rod.
Do you have some form of caster correction currently? I see on the sheet they note caster is adjustable, but it sounds like they’ve maxed that out maybe. Do you have cam bolts in the axle’s lower control arm mounts? Your caster is really low at <3*, and should be up over 4*. If you have no caster correction, you need to look in to some form. If you have cam bolts, you need to look at cam bolt deletes + control arm brackets or adjustable control arms if you want to remedy the caster. Keep in mind that caster from the factory is 4.2*, and you should expect to see a vast improvement in driving if you get your caster back up in that range. Outside of adjustable BJs, you just live with the camber.
I suspect that you just need to let your BJs break in a bit as you're probably experiencing some tight steering. That is a pretty normal thing after replacing ball joints.
Thanks for your response. The Jeep does not have any type of caster adjustment. I've have driven around 1K mile since the BJ work, but most of it on the highway. So I also think that maybe the BJ still tight. Either way, I think that I am going to replace the front control arms for adjustable ones to fix the caster. Do you think I should replace the ones in the rear too? I'm looking online and a complete set of 8 (Mammoth) is about $600. And it looks like is something I could DIY.
Thanks for your response. The Jeep has a Rubicon "budget" 2.5" lift (coils, shocks and sway bars) and 35" tires mounted in 18" wheels. I think that somehow the new BJs changed the caster, because before the replacement the Jeep drove like a dream. I think my best option is to upgrade the control arms to get the caster closer to spec.
I agree with you that someone played with the steering stabilizer. Is all crooked. I'm going to re-install it again. Do you think I could use the stabilizer without the boots? I've been trying to buy one boot and I haven't find it online yet.
Last edited by Joe PR; 10-26-2018 at 10:59 AM.
Reason: forgot include quote
Is the jeep lifted? If so, you're going to want more like 5* castor minimum. They just drive a lot better that way. Adjustable upper arms are cheap, and will give you the ability to set it correctly. not much you can do with the camber, but it's not terrible.
Looks like when they adjusted the toe, the didn't loosen the clamps for your steering stabilizer, or didn't tighten them back in the correct spot to provide clearance between that boot and the tie rod.
Thanks for your response. The Jeep has a Rubicon "budget" 2.5" lift (coils, shocks and sway bars) and 35" tires mounted in 18" wheels. I think that somehow the new BJs changed the caster, because before the replacement the Jeep drove like a dream. I think my best option is to upgrade the control arms to get the caster closer to spec.
I agree with you that someone played with the steering stabilizer. Is all crooked. I'm going to re-install it again. Do you think I could use the stabilizer without the boots? I've been trying to buy one boot and I haven't found it online yet.
On a 4dr, even with a lift, the angle your driveshaft is running at is pretty forgiving. You can do the rear control arms as well if you want to, but the rear situation is more about being able to reposition the axle where you want it. Not near as important as fixing the caster situation up front. Definitely an easy DIY job if you have tools and a jack. You don't even have to remove tires or jack the jeep up to change front arms. You just need the jack to help rotate the axle a tad so bolt holes line up with the arms. Jack either under the front diff or under the pinion to rotate the direction you need. You do need a 1/2" drive torque wrench, and you'll probably need a crows foot or a crescent wrench large enough for a jam nut on adjustable arms. I will say however, on the 3.8L, the passenger side upper arm, frame side bolt is a booger.....you have a clearance issue with the exhaust.
On a 4dr, even with a lift, the angle your driveshaft is running at is pretty forgiving. You can do the rear control arms as well if you want to, but the rear situation is more about being able to reposition the axle where you want it. Not near as important as fixing the caster situation up front. Definitely an easy DIY job if you have tools and a jack. You don't even have to remove tires or jack the jeep up to change front arms. You just need the jack to help rotate the axle a tad so bolt holes line up with the arms. Jack either under the front diff or under the pinion to rotate the direction you need. You do need a 1/2" drive torque wrench, and you'll probably need a crows foot or a crescent wrench large enough for a jam nut on adjustable arms. I will say however, on the 3.8L, the passenger side upper arm, frame side bolt is a booger.....you have a clearance issue with the exhaust.
Hi, after reading lots of posts regarding caster correction I ended up ordering AEV Geometry Correction Brackets. I decided against the Mammoths control arms due to price, $599 vs $100 for the brackets. I use my Jeep as a DD, never used for Off Road (I know, shame on me). So I don’t need the extra articulation that adjustable control arms provide. I also going to reinstall the Rancho Steering Stabilizer, because someone (I guess the Tire Shop) changed the position and one of the shocks is touching the tie rod. Hopefully this will fix the wandering issue. I will post updates. Thanks everyone for your help.
10-26-2018, 09:11 AM
Help with wandering Jeep after BJ replacement
