Help with towing weight/capability
#11
JK Jedi Master
That's crazy. I would have thought it was due to the diesel combo as well.
That being said....if you are slightly over by say 500-700 lbs and you have load range D or better tires, and the proper gearing, are we really talking about something that becomes dangerous, or just Jeep being sissys?
That being said....if you are slightly over by say 500-700 lbs and you have load range D or better tires, and the proper gearing, are we really talking about something that becomes dangerous, or just Jeep being sissys?
If something goes wrong when you are overloaded, (what the manufacturer considers overloaded), and someone gets hurt, you at least have to deal with your own conscience.
You may also have to deal with a civil suit, even if the accident wasn't your fault.
Last edited by ronjenx; 11-12-2012 at 05:43 AM.
#12
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I too have read the old 2007-2009 Jeep 3.8 Euro tow wts. I have heard on other fourms that Jeep engineers conceded at Camp Jeep that the U.S. recommended wts are for warranty purposes, to keep down warranty claims considering they put an inadequate transmission cooler in the pre-pentastar engines. I remember my old Grand Wagoneer having 173 hp with a first generation Dana 44. It had a tow rating of 7000 lbs. Heck, even the current Liberty has a 5000 lbs tow rating. I tow my trailer with electric brakes at sane speeds. With the JKU having a 116 in of wheel base, it makes a stable tow rig, but not very fast, but in my opinion it doesn't need to be any faster. Want to pull faster? Get a Ram Truck or Suburban. Otherwise, as a blood sucking Attorney, I feel comfortable towing up to the 5k lbs the Liberty will pull.
The Mopar aux transmission cooler runs about $400 installed.
The Mopar aux transmission cooler runs about $400 installed.
#13
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Oh yeah, and one other thing. If the minivan engine and tranny was the real concern keeping our towing numbers low, yet allowing the Euros to tow more, then why did the new Pentastar engine with 285 hp and a five speed tranny with a real fluid cooler keep the tow rating and combined gross vehicle rating the same? Chrysler sucks and the German government wouldn't let them keep the tow rating artificially low. Just my two cents.
#14
JK Super Freak
Originally Posted by RobtTxRubi
Oh yeah, and one other thing. If the minivan engine and tranny was the real concern keeping our towing numbers low, yet allowing the Euros to tow more, then why did the new Pentastar engine with 285 hp and a five speed tranny with a real fluid cooler keep the tow rating and combined gross vehicle rating the same? Chrysler sucks and the German government wouldn't let them keep the tow rating artificially low. Just my two cents.
#16
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In my experience, jeeps sag in the back with weight on the hitch. i would think this seriously affects ride. how about some air shocks to level out the ride?
#17
JK Super Freak
If the back sags under the hitch weight, an equalizer hitch will take care of it and make the tow handle better too.
#18
JK Enthusiast
Just my opinion..... The rating is low due to stopping ability. We all know that in 4 low, our jeeps would pull a house... But once the weight is moving, could you control the speed down hill through the Rocky's? Just like my daily work truck (A 2012 Dodge 3500 Flatbed Cummins) can handle a hell of a lot more weight than the I can safely stop.. The weight rating is a "safe" number to compensate for idiots who do not follow directions and try to overload their vehicles abilities. My suggestion is that you use reason.. Stay as close to that number as you can when you get what you want. And for the record, I pull a 4700 lb RV on a regular basis with trailer brakes behind my 2012 JKU and have had zero issues, but I also don't live in the Rocky's or drive in stop and go traffic in L.A either.
#19
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The tow issues discussed here only apply to JKUs, short wheel based JKs should stick well below the 1500 lb limit. The JKU has a 116 in WB, which is great for towing. I believe I have 13 in rotors in front and 12 in in back. Larger brakes than the Liberty, I believe. It stops very well, especially with electric trailer brakes. Towing and stopping are just a matter of safe tow speed, planing and distance. No tow rig/trailer combination ever stops as well as the tow rig alone. That's where low tow speeds come in handy. I get a real kick out of seeing 3/4 and 1 ton trucks speeding down the highway with 5th wheels running close behind at 75 and 80 mph. I also think they're just highway deaths waiting for their moment in time. Hopefully, far, far from my loved ones.
Every trailer in Texas above 2000 lbs is required to have some sort of brake. It's a rule I firmly believe, over 1500 lbs and I want trailer brakes. I also have air bags in the rear suspension to keep my front axle firmly in contact with the road, because I didn't want to run a weight equalizing hitch.
Every trailer in Texas above 2000 lbs is required to have some sort of brake. It's a rule I firmly believe, over 1500 lbs and I want trailer brakes. I also have air bags in the rear suspension to keep my front axle firmly in contact with the road, because I didn't want to run a weight equalizing hitch.
#20
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Just my opinion..... The rating is low due to stopping ability. We all know that in 4 low, our jeeps would pull a house... But once the weight is moving, could you control the speed down hill through the Rocky's? Just like my daily work truck (A 2012 Dodge 3500 Flatbed Cummins) can handle a hell of a lot more weight than the I can safely stop.. The weight rating is a "safe" number to compensate for idiots who do not follow directions and try to overload their vehicles abilities. My suggestion is that you use reason.. Stay as close to that number as you can when you get what you want. And for the record, I pull a 4700 lb RV on a regular basis with trailer brakes behind my 2012 JKU and have had zero issues, but I also don't live in the Rocky's or drive in stop and go traffic in L.A either.