I have the two door and didn't remove the skids at all. Install was a snap.

 

as a casual wrencher who has not yet fooled with the mounting of trans skids on the jk yet. have you maybe either snapped the tack weld securing the nut plate or maybe just maybe you have forgotten that you must place a wrench or socket attached to the other side to prevent the spinning of said attachment hrdw in question. worst come to worst drill it out and re-tap as you may have seized and cross threaded the fastener............

 

I believe that this may be the case. I will try the breaker bar and heat first but if it truely is cross threaded How does one re-tap??


thanks!

P.s. I was turning the right way

 

An old trick a shop teacher once taught me might be helpfull too, especiall if it may be seized. Heat it up like everyone is saying then if you can get around to the back of it (without burning yourself) touch a candle to it and get some wax on it. The wax will act as a lubricant and the heat will draw it into the threads.

 

Breaker bar should work

 

This reminder was actully in a recent magazine (Peterson's I think) I read this morning in the small office. I was signing on to share the tip.

If you put the wax on the threads, the wax should be sucked up the threads between the bolt and the receiving threads.

 

liquid wrench, heat, breaker......done.

 

Sounds like it mighta got crossthreaded last time it went in but dunno

Like it's been mentioned-heat is your friend and leverage. A breaker bar is a good start but take it a step further. Get a jack handle over the end of the breaker bar. You'd be amazed what you can rip apart with a home-rigged 4 foot breaker bar

 

PB Buster, heat, and breaker bar

 

When you DO finally get it out. Whatever fastener you go back with, here's a tip. Liberally coat the threads with Permatex red silicone. That bolt will never get siezed again. You can use anti sieze, but it WILL eventually wash off, especially under the Jeep. Silicone will be there until you remove the bolt.