HELP!:Rugged Ridge Mirror Bracket
#1
HELP!:Rugged Ridge Mirror Bracket
Ok...So maybe I'm notthe sharpest tool in the shed but I figured I could handle doing the RR Mirror relocation brackets. I've encountered a few problems.
1) Instructions say to use the old T40 screw to reattatch the mirror to the new bracket. This screw does not seem long enough. I tried to really apply pressure to the mirror to get it to seat in the bracket but the screw barely makes it. I used one of teh screws that attatch the old mirror bracket to the door, they are longer and I can tighten the mirror to the RR bracket.
2) Instructions say to use the old screws that held the factory mirror to the door to attatch the filler plate. I tried threading the screw into the filler plate (without it being on the door) and after a few turns it becomes really tight. I'm concrene about tightening it for fear of breaking the posts on teh filler.
Is this nornal? Should these screws be that tight? I checKed several times to make sure I wasnt cross threading the screw.
What gives? Any help appreciated
1) Instructions say to use the old T40 screw to reattatch the mirror to the new bracket. This screw does not seem long enough. I tried to really apply pressure to the mirror to get it to seat in the bracket but the screw barely makes it. I used one of teh screws that attatch the old mirror bracket to the door, they are longer and I can tighten the mirror to the RR bracket.
2) Instructions say to use the old screws that held the factory mirror to the door to attatch the filler plate. I tried threading the screw into the filler plate (without it being on the door) and after a few turns it becomes really tight. I'm concrene about tightening it for fear of breaking the posts on teh filler.
Is this nornal? Should these screws be that tight? I checKed several times to make sure I wasnt cross threading the screw.
What gives? Any help appreciated
#3
I found this doing a search for "Rugged Ridge Mirror"
Hope it helps.
ok so this is what the rep for RR sent me on here:
I'm sorry to hear you had a fitment issue with the mirror head to the bracket arm. Because of the large number of backorders for these units they were shipped out as soon as the second shipment were in house. What we were not aware of was that the improvments made to the second batch (increased powder coating thickness) was also applied at the top of the mounting hole rim. The ID shouls have been 29mm but has been found to be 28.65mm. This explaines the fitment issue you experienced. This correction has been made for future products and I'm very sorry you had the misfortune if receiving the unit with this problem.
There is an easy field fix that corrects the issue for people like yourself. You were able to figure it out but as you guess that will not be the case for others.
The smaller torx head bolt removed from the inside of your door can be used in place of the OE outer retainer bolt used to hold the mirror in place. This longer bolt will allow you to grab the mirror head and pull it down into place without stripping threads.
I'm very sorry I was unable to get this information to you sooner but we just found out about this porblem through the forums as this was not an issue with any preproduction units nor the first shipment received...
Please let me know if there is anything I can do to help make this a little better.
Patrick Bennett
Quality Assurance and New Product Development Manager
OMIX-ADA (Rugged Ridge)
i like it that they are watching the forums but i wish i got this email before i had to fix it myself, heck even a sticky note in the box would have been nice.
i might ask for new brackets for the a pillar if i cant work around the fitting issue
Hope it helps.
ok so this is what the rep for RR sent me on here:
I'm sorry to hear you had a fitment issue with the mirror head to the bracket arm. Because of the large number of backorders for these units they were shipped out as soon as the second shipment were in house. What we were not aware of was that the improvments made to the second batch (increased powder coating thickness) was also applied at the top of the mounting hole rim. The ID shouls have been 29mm but has been found to be 28.65mm. This explaines the fitment issue you experienced. This correction has been made for future products and I'm very sorry you had the misfortune if receiving the unit with this problem.
There is an easy field fix that corrects the issue for people like yourself. You were able to figure it out but as you guess that will not be the case for others.
The smaller torx head bolt removed from the inside of your door can be used in place of the OE outer retainer bolt used to hold the mirror in place. This longer bolt will allow you to grab the mirror head and pull it down into place without stripping threads.
I'm very sorry I was unable to get this information to you sooner but we just found out about this porblem through the forums as this was not an issue with any preproduction units nor the first shipment received...
Please let me know if there is anything I can do to help make this a little better.
Patrick Bennett
Quality Assurance and New Product Development Manager
OMIX-ADA (Rugged Ridge)
i like it that they are watching the forums but i wish i got this email before i had to fix it myself, heck even a sticky note in the box would have been nice.
i might ask for new brackets for the a pillar if i cant work around the fitting issue
#4
THANKS! That helps explain the fitment of the mirror to the new bracket. Thats prettymuch how I solved the problem, used the longer bold.
Still cant figure out why the bolts from the old brackets dont fit the new filler plate. Maybe its just some powdercoat in the threads but it seems EXTEMELY tight,to the point that if feels like Im cutting new threads. Dont want to break the posts. Maybe I'll just look for different bolts for the filler, although I dont feel I should need to.
Still cant figure out why the bolts from the old brackets dont fit the new filler plate. Maybe its just some powdercoat in the threads but it seems EXTEMELY tight,to the point that if feels like Im cutting new threads. Dont want to break the posts. Maybe I'll just look for different bolts for the filler, although I dont feel I should need to.
#5
Still cant figure out why the bolts from the old brackets dont fit the new filler plate
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
I thought maybe I just got a bad set...but it looks like a lot of other people had the same problem. I finally got my relocation brackets on and they work okay (except that you can barely see any of the passenger side mirror whenever the doors are on). Did anyone else's brackets come with 4 bolts instead of the 2 that they were supposed to come with? I just used those 4 bolts to bolt on the filler plate and then used the existing Torx bolts on the windshield for the brackets. But I also had to mill out the holes in the brackets for the mirrors to fit. There was too much welding flash, and they just plain weren't milled out enough. Funny, because the guy that sold me them claimed he hadn't heard of any problems with them...but with so many other posts mentioning the same problem, I find that hard to believe now. By the way, if anyone wants my "repaired" brackets, let me know; I took them back off because I'm planning on selling my JK, even though I had it custom built and just got it a couple of months ago. For many years my dad drove a CJ7 and that was the first vehicle I ever learned to drive - after spending so much of my life cruising around in a CJ7, I just can't live with the JK. It doesn't feel like a Jeep to me. (If anyone wants an '08 JK Wrangler X in Jeep Green with 17" wheels and a soft top and a 3.73 gear ratio, and less than 4000 miles, let me know too, before someone else gets it.)
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#8
Thanks!
I finally figured it out. Apparently I had the old instructions. Mine said one of the hex bolts was to be used to attatch the bracket to the pillar. It also said nothing about using the longer bolts to attatch the mirror to the bracket.
This should have been a 30minute project. I'm not thrilled with the fitment of the mirror to the bracket, instructions were poor (nice glossy pictures though). Quality of the parts looks good but the design could use a little work. ALOT of the PS mirror is blocked with full doors, not just a little. I've had them on 1 day and I'm actually considering going back to the factory brackets till spring, then swapping for the summer, when I'm nore likely to have the doors off.
Thanks to all who helped.
This should have been a 30minute project. I'm not thrilled with the fitment of the mirror to the bracket, instructions were poor (nice glossy pictures though). Quality of the parts looks good but the design could use a little work. ALOT of the PS mirror is blocked with full doors, not just a little. I've had them on 1 day and I'm actually considering going back to the factory brackets till spring, then swapping for the summer, when I'm nore likely to have the doors off.
Thanks to all who helped.
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
No problem. I just want to remind everyone who has a Dremel that it may look better if you mill out the hole - using a longer bolt will work, but then the mirror base is not seated flush with the bracket. The Dremel fix gives it a better look (unless you slip and grind off some of the paint on the outside of the bracket), and it allows you to use the original bolt. I still dread the fact that you can't see most of the passenger side mirror if the doors are on. All they needed to do was make the passenger side bracket a little longer! But then if they were to do that, they could fix the hole size problem, the thread gauge problem, etc. Oh, and by the way, I changed my mind about selling the Jeep and my brackets, so please don't make me an offer (unless it's one that I just can't refuse).
#10
Can someone post a perspective pic from the drivers seat and the view of the passenger side mirror?
I think that would be immensely helpful. Heck, any shots would do. (I think someone else posted pics from the outside already)
I think that would be immensely helpful. Heck, any shots would do. (I think someone else posted pics from the outside already)