Help with Pinion Nut / Preload Issue
11-14-2018, 06:50 AM
#12
JK Jedi
Thread Starter
I doubt the power of my impact. Using HF Earthquake impact rated at 1190 break away, with 25' 3/8" line on a DeWalt 15g compressor. I've never crushed a new sleeve, but just read so many horror stories and many talking about the massive force needed. Maybe it's just more simple than I'm making it out to be. I have no leverage on the garage floor, so if impact doesn't work, not like I can get a bit cheater pipe on a breaker bar (well, without yanking the whole axle).
I know the "correct" answer here (using an appropriate in lbs torque wrench to measure at pinion nut), but can you generally advise....when you put your hand on the pinion in the housing, it should be pretty firm when you try to turn it by hand right? You should be able to turn it, but not turn terribly easily (loosely) correct?
I know the "correct" answer here (using an appropriate in lbs torque wrench to measure at pinion nut), but can you generally advise....when you put your hand on the pinion in the housing, it should be pretty firm when you try to turn it by hand right? You should be able to turn it, but not turn terribly easily (loosely) correct?
11-15-2018, 07:01 PM
#14
JK Junkie
<snip> I know the "correct" answer here (using an appropriate in lbs torque wrench to measure at pinion nut), but can you generally advise....when you put your hand on the pinion in the housing, it should be pretty firm when you try to turn it by hand right? You should be able to turn it, but not turn terribly easily (loosely) correct? </snip>
REAR AXLE - 198RBI
AXLE
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Axle Ratio 4.10
Ring Gear Backlash 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.)
Pinion Torque To Rotate - Original Bearings 1 - 2 Nm (10 - 20 in. lbs.)
Pinion Torque To Rotate - New Bearings 2 - 4 Nm (20 - 35 in. lbs.)
Total Torque To Rotate: Pinion Torque To Rotate plus 0.79 - 1.24 Nm (7 - 11 in. lbs.)
AXLE
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
Axle Ratio 4.10
Ring Gear Backlash 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.)
Pinion Torque To Rotate - Original Bearings 1 - 2 Nm (10 - 20 in. lbs.)
Pinion Torque To Rotate - New Bearings 2 - 4 Nm (20 - 35 in. lbs.)
Total Torque To Rotate: Pinion Torque To Rotate plus 0.79 - 1.24 Nm (7 - 11 in. lbs.)
Last edited by Mr.T; 11-15-2018 at 07:11 PM. Reason: Added note...
11-19-2018, 02:58 PM
#15
JK Enthusiast
Same Issue
I have exacly the same issue after replacing the pinion bearing on the yoke side. I did not take the diff cover off, did it all from the yoke side. Put the new crush sleeve, new bearing, new oil slinger, new seal and after tightening way past 260 ft/lbs with a 2 foot bar, I still cannot preload the bearings. The yoke has a 1/8 of an inch play, in and out of the differential. I feel the pinion moving up and down the crown. The pinion is set back 1/8 of an inch inside the yoke, when I unscrew the nut and take out the washer.
My suspision is the new bearing is just now sliding on the pinion to even touch the crush sleave. Do I need to take the differential out and have someone support the pinion while I hammer the bearing on the yoke side?
My suspision is the new bearing is just now sliding on the pinion to even touch the crush sleave. Do I need to take the differential out and have someone support the pinion while I hammer the bearing on the yoke side?
11-19-2018, 05:04 PM
#17
JK Enthusiast
Thank you. That's what I thought. And these is no way to do this without taking the carrier out, and holding with someone else the pinion. Will I need to set the pinion print on the crown if I
11-19-2018, 05:09 PM
#18
JK Jedi
Yes you have to take the carrier out. Typically you use set up bearing so you get the gear set right with the shims then pull everything back out and reinstall the shims and press the bearing. Then install the pinion with crush sleeve and tighten to 160 foot pounds or whatever your gear set specs too.
11-21-2018, 09:32 AM
#20
JK Jedi
Thread Starter
Circling back around to give a final update on this experience. Last weekend I set forth to replace the crush sleeve. In the process I totally jacked up the threads on the pinion gear. TBH, they were just jacked from the get go. Even after filing best I could, I could never even start a new (or even the old) pinion nut by hand. The only ones would go on with help of impact without making things worse, but on the last attempt to crush a new sleeve, I used a brand new nut and eff'd it beyond repair. SOoooo, a lot of wasted time jacking around with that in general. I moved on to my buddy's spare axle. Put my 1350 yoke on that and it went on as easy as it should have been. Spent some time re-shimiming the carrier from scratch as I didn't have the old shims, and eventually got it to where I felt comfortable, then swapped the entire axle in.
Been driving since Saturday evening with that axle under there, and have not grenaded the thing yet. Heading wheelin' on Friday and will feel pretty confident if things hold up through that. I helped regear mine when did it a few years back, but working on the garage floor vs. a lift sure isn't as pleasant. Even just working on the axle sitting to the side on jack stands was much more pleasant than the one under the jeep. Feel like my confidence has grown to the point that I could regear my own axles fairly easily if I had a lift and plenty of time, in addition to a nice clamshell bearing puller and decent set up bearings.
Been driving since Saturday evening with that axle under there, and have not grenaded the thing yet. Heading wheelin' on Friday and will feel pretty confident if things hold up through that. I helped regear mine when did it a few years back, but working on the garage floor vs. a lift sure isn't as pleasant. Even just working on the axle sitting to the side on jack stands was much more pleasant than the one under the jeep. Feel like my confidence has grown to the point that I could regear my own axles fairly easily if I had a lift and plenty of time, in addition to a nice clamshell bearing puller and decent set up bearings.