Hi guys

before I get stated I know a lot of you guys are not going to like my rim size....

last week I got new toyo open country MT 37x13.5 with new 22 inch rims..... Jeep was driving good. if anything better because it had new tiers. (still drifted a bit )
At that time I had a 2.5 inch lift - front lower adjustable control arms - front and rear adjustable track bar, hellwig front sway bar, and AEV correction brackets.. I also have 4.88 gears

Then on Monday I had some work done at 4 wheel parts and thats when things changed...
here is what I added

new rock krowler 3.5 springs front and rear
rear lower adjustable control arms
sleeve and gusset kit
synergy front steering correction drag link with front track bar bracket
synergy tie rod
terflex upper and lower ball joints
new front sway bar disconnects as they said I needed this for new hight

so now that you know what on the jeep here is whats going on

when I first got the jeep back form 4 wheel parts it was bouncing / vibrating when I went over 75 mph on highway. I lowered the psi down to 36 form 45psi and that seam to do the trick up until I went over 80 mph.

today on the way home from work the jeep started to vibrate over 70mph like it did before - I also felt like it was swaying a bit more then normal

I am friends with a head installer at a local jeep shop around my house - they just are way over priced or I get work done there... Anyways he came by and pointed a few things out

first thing he said was that they adjusted the sway bar disconnect links wrong and the driver side is set much higher then passenger side. and now your hellwig swaybar is pointing up not level
---I don't know if this has anything to do with what I am feeling - please let me know

He then pointed out what I think might be my main problem the new ball joints from teriflex are rubbing on the Axel shaft.
----- there is signs on the ball joints of rubbing and on the Axel shaft - passenger side shows more rubbing then driver side.
----- I looked online and it looks like modification is needed for the ball joints to fit on anything newer then 2012. I have a 2016 and it does not look like modification was made
---- could this be the main cause of the problem

Next he measured the track bar to each side of the tiers - and it looks like 4 wheel parts never recanted the track bar
------ could this have anything to do with what I am now feeling

they said after everything was done they did an alignment I had the specs but can't find the paper - I do remember the caster was around 3.0-3.2

the jeep is vibrating after say 65-70 mph - it feels like the whole jeep is vibrating and gets worse with speed

please let me know what you think could be going on and what I should do to fix this
thanks
Adam

 

If I read that right, you have adj lowers & drop brackets? Check the caster, and if it is in fact down around 3*, go back and make them adjust the arms or change holes on the brackets. No reason at all for them to have left it that low, except maybe laziness.

Get the tires rebalanced. I go in to Discount Tire every 3k for a free balance/rotation. On several occassions I have gone in with no vibes, and left 'with' vibes because the tech didn't get it right. (not saying that is for sure the problem, it's just the first thing that comes to mind.)

Is a raised rear trackbar bracket installed? Or just the adjustable trackbar.

The 'draglink' was moved to the top of the knuckle when that front trackbar bracket went on? (thanks for spotting the error, resharp)

Are the links quick disco's/removable? Is so, remove them and look at the swaybar ends. I know mine is sitting at least an inch higher on one side than the other. If yours is the same, I'd guess that they didn't measure anything, just adjusted the links to match where the swaybar ends were?

 

Nthinuf means the drag link here....asking if the drag link was now flipped to the top of the knuckle (factory position is mounting from below)

I would note it's not a big deal for the front sway bar to be angled a couple degrees up. This is normal and helps eliminate the chance that it buckles and flips around. That said, confirm the adjustable links are indeed the same length.

The ball joins should not be rubbing on the axle shaft. If they are, I'd take it back and have the shop address that.

Agree with Nthinuf on the caster too. There is now way that 3-3.2* caster should have been acceptable for 4WP to leave it like that. They should have adjusted the caster appropriately. Is there some reason you have both adjustable front lower arms AND geo brackets?

 

36psi is still to high on an E rated 37 on a light rig.