I installed the RC 4" lift with their new X arms. I did not change my drive shafts, they do not rub. RC instructs you to check the clearance and if the driveshaft looks like it will rub, they instruct you how to fix that in under 15 minutes. There are many guys running the 4" lifts with OEM driveshafts and not having failures. A couple guys here posted they have over 50K miles on no driveshaft issues. My lift took about 10 hours total. Your lift will take a little less. Do not worry about "big lift - tiny tires", that is better than buying big tires and they rub until you can afford a lift.

BTW, my lift rides so much better than stock. I was surprised.

 

I to am planing on getting the 2.5 coil lift but I have a straight drive. Is there still a problem with driveshaft failure disconecting and wheeling? Planing on shock extentions for now.

 

I say go with a teraflex 2.5 coil lift and start saving for a driveshaft anyway. U could always add a body lift in the future to get more room for larger tires or add 1 inch coil spacers. with the 2.5 teraflex lift, u will be fine with up to 35s. If u keep the stock wheels, u will need wheel spacers. They cost about 20 bucks, I would just get aftermarket steel rims since it wouldnt be much more money.

 

ultimately I want to go about 3.5 inches of lift by adding 1" spacers. Thats why I am only getting shock extentions for now.Unless I can use the same shocks for 2.5 or 3.5 lift. I know I will be adding shafts later but just wondering if I will be okay for the 2.5 without them.

 

I figure by the time I wear out the 33" i will have the lift finished. I like the look of a little more than 2.5 lift with 35's

 

i put a 3 inch spacer lift on my jeep, and it wasnt that expensive and i fit 35s just fine.

 

I understand the need for all the extra components for the extra lift. I like keeping the belly up instead of a body lift. If I understand correctly you are saying that with 2.5 lift the rear shaft would be more prone to failure if wheeled and could be helped out with the rear arms and and adjusting pinion angle.

 

thanks Dirtman

 

I put this lift on my 2010 sport Unlimited about a year ago, i like the ride better then stock also. The kit comes with everything you need, no problems with steering geometry tho you will need to recenter your steering wheel but you will need to do that with any lift. Me and the wife put the lift on and it took us about 5-6 hours and had fun doing it, got a price to have it put on and it was about $400. But I like to say we did it (built not paid for). I did tear my rubber boot on my stock driveshaft but that was when I went to Rausch Creek and was doing some crazy stuff. With that said you will still get about 1-2k more miles before you have to replace the driveshaft that should give you about a year to save for a front shaft, not one problem with the rear driveshaft.

Your tires will look a little small, but just save your money for the next year and get some bigger tires and your front driveshaft and you will like the look with the 3.5 lift.

Our sport with RC 3.5 lift and LT285/70R17 HANKOOK DYNAPRO MT


We have a 2011 Rubi now and we are putting the same lift on it as well .

 

Forgot to tell you that I also got the Rough Country Dual Steering Stabilizer cost was $120