Foneman38

Hi guys. I am a new JK owner and need help identifying my differentials. I'm pretty sure, using some math, that the Jeep has been regeared to 4.88:1. (3000rpm @ 60mph on 315/70R17 in 5th gear (manual transmission)). I'm sure that the rear diff is Dana 44, but I am having trouble identifying the front diff, because I can't get a good view of it. lol. I know, I know, but hoping someone can ID from these pics.

ronjenx

Here's a picture of the various diff covers:






Here's a more accurate way to determine your axle ratio:
Put a chalk mark on the front drive shaft.
Put a chalk mark on one front tire.
Jack up the front tire with the chalk mark.
Rotate the tire two complete revolutions while counting the drive shaft revolutions.
The number of turns of the drive shaft will be the gear ratio.
3 and 1/4 turns will be 3.21
3 and 3/4 turns will be 3.73
A little over 4 turns will be 4.10
4 and 1/2 turns will be 4.56
A little over 4 and 3/4 turns will be 4.88
A little over 5 turns will be 5.13
A little over 5 and 1/4 turns will be 5.38

resharp001

That is certainly the Ultimate D44 cover. I suspect, from the limited pictures, the entire axle is the ultimate D44 front since your Unlimited X did not come with a D44 front. If you have a UD44 that would be a nice upgrade for you as it has a bit thicker bracketry.

If you want to post up more pics of the suspension or whatnot we can help identifying more. I'd guess from what appears to be a Rough Country dual stabilizer, which should probably be removed, the entire lift would be RC.

Kudos on doing a bit of research and figuring out the likely gearing. You are already a step ahead of most new owners!

newt_man1

I can see the Ultimate Dana diff cover but it looks rounded, making me lean more towards a D30. Good call on the gears though, with those you should be able to turn 37's just fine.

resharp001

You're comment made me look again, and you're right. That is a Dana 30 cover (really don't recall them making that cover) -




Note the location of the drain bolt as being the same. The UD44 cover looks like this -

Foneman38

Thanks for the replies folks. I greatly appreciate it. Why do you recommend removing the steering stabilizers? Also, the rear clicks occasionally at low RPM while turning. Another Jeep guy told me it may have a mechanical locker in it. I know I probably won't know for sure without removing the cover and looking, but does that sound like a locker? Thanks again for your responses.

resharp001

The clicking while turning does sound a lot like a lunchbox locker.

Here is what I would say about stabilizers in general. First, the jeep should be able to drive with good manners without a SS at all if it's set up properly. That SS is kinda just the final piece in the puzzle that keeps everything in harmony. There are many folks that don't use a SS at all. I drove a few years without one myself. A lot of people will spend big money on Fox or Falcon stabilizers cuz they think they look sexy. Whatevs. Then there are people that buy dual stabilizers cuz they think those look cool. If you're going to use a stabilizer then honestly, the most basic thing is really the best. That is one of few applications where the factory one was just fine. The other reason people add these types of things is the bigger issue. Something is off and they are having some adverse steering feedback or side effects and the solution is "hey, I gotta stiffen up this steering with a powerful SS, or a SS that is exerting a lot of pressure in both directions with a dual setup". Well, they will indeed help....they help by masking the issue rather than addressing and fixing it. Steering components are no joke on a solid axle vehicle. Ball joints and track bar joints and bolts are huge issues on these things, and the leading cause of wobbles. When something is amiss, your jeep starts granting you some signals along the lines of bumpsteer, veering, odd shimmies, etc. If you're in tune with your jeep and you feel something odd, you then should know you have an issue that needs addressing. Well, if you just cover up these little signals with bigger, better, power stout stabilizers, they don't prevent the issues, they just hide them. If I have a bad joint or a loose bolt, I want to know ASAP so I can address it. I do not want the issue to fester, get worse, and possibly start blowing other joints. There's my speel on stabilizers at least.

I was wrong on that cover earlier. Newt_man1 for the win there and for making me look closer. Sorry for the mistake. I really don't recall Dana making that cover for a D30.