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Help with going to 37s

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Old 02-25-2016, 03:39 AM
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Default Help with going to 37s

Hey all. I currently have 305/65r/17s on aev rims. I bought my 2012 sport 6sp with a lift, possibly a 2-2.5 budget boost. I don't wheel, but obviously, I like the look of a mean rig. I saw that the ko2 was a decently light 37, only five lbs heavier than my Mickey's. What are your thoughts on getting the 37s on the Dana 30 if I just sleeve and gusset it? Yay, nay? Oh. I currently have 3.73s and am planning on moving up to 4.56s. Any input is appreciated.
Old 02-25-2016, 03:46 AM
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If your driving on the roads, I don't see it as being an issue. There are many sleeved/gusseted D30 JK axles doing off-road work with drivers that are very intentionally soft/easy on the axle and don't have issues. If you want to start jarring the front axle around, spinning tires and rock crawling you start to really push up against the D30 and its physical limits. But again, there are plenty out there that can baby the Dana 30 on 37" rubber and make it work if they keep things soft and gentle. Driving on roads, and not slamming curbs and such, you should be fine.
Old 02-25-2016, 04:05 AM
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Since you stated you do not wheel 37's on a D30 is not going to be an issue. I would also suggest checking out a gear chart to see if 4.56's are the right gears for your situation. Additionally I would leave the stock axle shafts and drive shaft in place so in the event you decide to go offroad the weakest link in your front axle is not going to be your ring and pinion.

I am currently running a D30 with 5.13's and an Aussie locker with stock axle and drive shafts. Why because it is my weakest link. My plan is to bump up to 37's when my 35's wear out.

R/
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Old 02-25-2016, 04:20 AM
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Much obliged. I'll check out a chart when to help out with the gear decision. Thanks!
Old 02-25-2016, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Canvas
Since you stated you do not wheel 37's on a D30 is not going to be an issue. I would also suggest checking out a gear chart to see if 4.56's are the right gears for your situation. Additionally I would leave the stock axle shafts and drive shaft in place so in the event you decide to go offroad the weakest link in your front axle is not going to be your ring and pinion.

I am currently running a D30 with 5.13's and an Aussie locker with stock axle and drive shafts. Why because it is my weakest link. My plan is to bump up to 37's when my 35's wear out.

R/
Will
Well said. You may want to rethink the stock driveshaft being the weak link though. The stock front driveshaft is actually stronger than an aftermarket DC shaft with 1310 ujoints. The stock front driveshaft has 1330 ujoints on the diff side and the rezpa joint on the transfer case side is as strong if not stronger than an aftermarket shaft with DC 1310 ujoints. Where people have issues with the stock driveshafts is the rezpa boot getting pinched and ripping during articulation as well as exhaust crossover clearance issues at fool droop. Im using the Adams front shaft for 3 reasons: clearance from the exhaust crossover at full droop, elimination of the rezpa boot ripping and using a smaller ujoint than stock to limit the damage to my r & P
Old 02-25-2016, 06:27 PM
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you'll be fine on road and just light off-roading.....I actually believe your axle will benefit by not having a locker in it......open diffs will not put that extra amount of leverage on the axle to cause you problems



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