I have a 2011 jk rubicon that currently does not have a front drive shaft and a stock rear drive shaft. I bought the vehicle like this with a 3 inch lift kit and sitting on 37s. Without a front drive shaft, I have no 4 wheel drive which has become problematic on the trails so I was looking into drive shafts and do not have any idea of what to look for. I know I need to replace the rear one and the front one seems to have been removed to make space for the long tube headers that were installed. I think I can get a drive shaft in the front to fit but i do not know if i have the clearance for when the front moves. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

I would think you have to measure the distance from the yoke at the transfer case to the diff yoke and take it to a driveline shop and get a shaft made up. You may have to change the TC yoke if you want to go away from stock to a double cardan but there is a Terraflex upgrade that will take care of the extra angle the lift caused on the front driveshaft. Still means you have to buy a stock driveshaft (possibly 2nd hand) and get it lengthened and add the TF upgrade. The front joint is already a U-joint from the factory. Depends on how much power you are putting through it and if you are a hard ass driver when off road. Me - I have wheeled for 42 years and never broken down on the trail and we have been on some fantastic and technical adventures just to give you some perspective. Now if you are an extreme rock crawler type then you will need some tough driveline to handle that along with suspension etc.

 

Without seeing pictures, It's really hard to believe that anyone would choose some headers over 4WD if that was chosen due to interference. It's more likely the factory front crapped out due to lift height. The boot at the TC side CV rips and pukes grease, joint dries out. Previous owner may have chosen not to replace if they never went off road, or maybe couldn't afford to replace at the time. Measure like Sixty4x4 says and look at a doulbe cardan DS. You can get some that mount right to the pinion flange without having to swap that to a yoke. Adam's is a popular choice. Unfortunately, it's not likely anyone is going to be able to advise your clearances while flexed out. Every jeep is different and there are so many variables.

 

I've bought DS's from all the major players...
Get a DS from a company that makes them for Ultra 4 use, spend the $ once.

Talk to these guys first:
http://www.bwdrivelineplus.com/

http://www.facebook.com/BW-Driveline...7441283878555/

 

adams makes one for the front that is apparently good from stock to 6" lift...

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/f...nd-pinion-yoke

 

I got an Adams. It's great. Have to change the yoke on the transfer case, but they make one to work with the stock flange on the front. From what I remember, you don't have to measure unless you have more than 4in of lift.

I got solid u-joints, so that I don't have to worry about greasing them, so it is maintenance free.

On the rear, you will have to change the yokes out on both the transfer case and the differential.

Tire size and power output will determine if you need 1310, or 1350. Most people, including me, can run 1310 no problem, unless you're talking 40s, or a V8, or both.

 

Problem with the DS's that you get from the above is their thin tube. .086+- vs .185 so you even touch a rock and its over.
That and the spline some use is prone to cracking and bending.
Maybe not a concern unless your playing on big rocks.

 

Not sure about others, but Adams uses .12 wall tube. Although not the same as .185, it's definitely not .086. I'm not out running KOH, but my jeep is not treated lightly and I've never had an issue with my Adams shafts.

The B&W shafts do look nice. Out of curiosity, what does one of those run generally?

 

My new Adams DS was .083, the rear.

Call and talk to Budd @ B&W for info.
Front 2" is .120

 

I stand corrected. You are right. I swear I saw that the rear was .12 as well. The 1350 rear is .095 and the 1310 is .083.