solo9562

OK, after reading all the horor stories about pinion nuts and pre-load, I am considering a driveshaft that allows the use of the OE flanges at the T-Case and axel. Can anyone tell me what the disadvantages of keeping the OE flanges are. The advantage of a much easier install seem obvious, but I'm sure there is a reason people change the flanges.

aermotor

OE flanges are definitely a weak design and using them when aftermarket shafts are designed to use much better ones just doesn't make sense to me.

I don't know the horror stories you speak of... I read a lot, did it myself and it came out fine. You can definitely torque them down yourself to a certain lb and there won't be a problem.

mkjeep

Actually the OE flanges are very strong, it's the OE driveshafts that are weak. Aftermarket yolks make for an easier trail repair and also put the ds closer to the tcase therefore decreasing the angle and vibration that would come from a double carden shaft if OE flanges are used.

wayoflife

what mk said. the biggest gripe i have with the flanges is that you typcially have vibration issues with them. if you're worried about not installing your shaft correctly, take it to a shop that knows how to do it by the book and with a fine in lb torque wrench and they'll get it on right. shops like northridge4x4 pride themselves on doing it this way.

Red Dog

I changed mine because I did not like the design of the OE’s. They would be a pain to change on the trail and would be a lot harder to fins if you need a replacement. I went with the 1310 because it is the most common and you can find part every place. Change the yokes is always my suggestion.

dmhines

THe OE flanges are very heavy .... by swapping out the factory shafts and flanges your probably saving around 10 or 15 lbs ....

I used a Tatton shaft which came with new flanges ... it very easy to swap. Torque to TC flange to around 60lbs .... and the Pinion flange to around 160lbs ... I've got 2500 miles on my new DS and flanges with no issues.

Crasher

I have a 3" lift, an auto and the stock shafts. I tried a well known brand front shaft that included proper yokes. I installed it to specs and bought upper and lower ca to dial in the pinion. I still had a vibration and because of previous attempts to correct vibrations on a ZJ, I sent the shaft back and went back to the stock shaft. Thefront and rear both run smooth and are fine after 10,000 miles. I know the front will probably give up in the next 10,000 miles, but I just bought a pair of OE shafts w/1500 miles on them for $200. Unless I break one, this is a better option for me. I've got no vibrations and a good castor angle for handling.