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Help ... death wobble started after steering kit install

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Old 08-12-2021, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by resharp001
Not meaning to get my feathers ruffled, but it really pisses me off when dealers say stuff like that cuz it's just flat out not correct. I'd venture to guess that practically none of those service techs actually experienced DW themselves on their own vehicle cuz most of them aren't driving these. For them to say it needs a SS is irresponsible and dangerous for the owner of the jeep cuz it's not fixing something that honesty could lead to a catastrophic event. Those guys are ok at turning the wrenches in the steps the book tells them to during a repair, but they just lack the real-world knowledge on some of this stuff, and they also don't get paid much to troubleshoot. The sad part is that this can happen to totally stock vehicles in addition to modified as the same components wear over time.

Just referencing your original picture, those look like factory ball joints (don't see a grease zerk) on a 2010 jeep. It also looks like an old Rubicon Express track bar maybe. Back in the day it was common to have crap poly bushing on one end and a heim at the other. I guess I never really noticed RE put that poly bushing at the axle side rather than the frame side like most others. Anyhow, either end of that TB could have suspect joints as well. As noted higher, have someone turn the steering wheel without the jeep on and watch the motion in those joints. You should not be seeing much movement at all. That TB is really one of the most crucial components in the entire front end. If you plan to keep that jeep for a while it would be advisable to get a nice TB with a bushing type joint on both ends, similar to what Metalcloak and Synergy are selling these days.

I'd go so far as to say that there are a few offroad shops that are really good, but there are also others that are crap. People just don't care to take the time to really troubleshoot an issue cuz at the end of the day they don't make much money for their time troubleshooting. I've seen it first hand with my dad up in Colorado when he had wobbles and a local shop there told him he needed a new SS . Seen it here locally with some shops and random people I've met along the way. It's really frustrating to me and why I am usually pretty vocal in wobble threads. I've dealt with this stuff myself and I know it can be really scary when it happens. Every once in a blue moon someone will roll through here with a wobble that turned out to have an uncommon root cause, but most of the time the gremlins are fairly easy to pinpoint.
Many thanks for the continued feedback! I completely agree on the dealership's SS comment. I agree on taking this to a quality shop to get their take. I also agree on swapping out the TB and per my last post, I've started down the metal cloak route. This is mostly a daily driver, but my son will start driving it in a couple of years and I'm not leaving anything to chance.
Old 08-12-2021, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by gatorhwk
I supposed I could have some warn components, but there was absolutely no indication of that until I installed this steering kit and removed the SS ... which I still find odd. Then again, I'm a new jeeper so still learning.
During death wobble, your front axle moves side to side. There’s one thing and one thing only that stops the axle from doing that, the track bar. Now, you can have other components that are worn and not cause issues by themselves. However, if these worn components are perturbed in some way, that can allow a slight excess movement which when transferred to the lateral movement of the axle, death wobble begins unless the track bar is suitable to stop that lateral movement.

Here’s why dealers and bad shops recommend a stabilizer: it’s cheaper and easier to use a stabilizer to minimize the other worn parts from causing a side effect of lateral axle movement. Chasing down one of a handful of problems may not be that bad but it’s still easier to slap a stabilizer on the steering system and be done with it.

That’s why it makes sense that you discover death wobble when you remove the stabilizer.
Old 08-12-2021, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Sv_dude
During death wobble, your front axle moves side to side. There’s one thing and one thing only that stops the axle from doing that, the track bar. Now, you can have other components that are worn and not cause issues by themselves. However, if these worn components are perturbed in some way, that can allow a slight excess movement which when transferred to the lateral movement of the axle, death wobble begins unless the track bar is suitable to stop that lateral movement.

Here’s why dealers and bad shops recommend a stabilizer: it’s cheaper and easier to use a stabilizer to minimize the other worn parts from causing a side effect of lateral axle movement. Chasing down one of a handful of problems may not be that bad but it’s still easier to slap a stabilizer on the steering system and be done with it.

That’s why it makes sense that you discover death wobble when you remove the stabilizer.
And the education continues. This is the info I was looking for ... and the reinforcement I needed to leave the dealership behind. I always felt I was wasting money and now I'm sure I was. I see a Metal Cloak track bar in the near future.

On a side note, is death wobble most prominent at low speeds? I really don't want to take the Jeep on the interstate at the moment after what I experienced yesterday. A while back, I saw an old video of death wobble that was so bad I thought it must be the worst case scenario and I certainly feel that's what happened to me. Bummed that it seems I won't be able to pick up the 1.5" Teraflex Falcon mount I need for this new TR any time soon. It would definitely help in the mean time.
Old 08-12-2021, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by gatorhwk

On a side note, is death wobble most prominent at low speeds?
This all depends on what it is that triggers the wobble. In general I'd say no, cuz most of the time it is a bad bump or pothole that instigates things. I've seen things get started due to out of balanced tires (beadlock wheels all caked with mud in the rings) and in that case yes, speed is an obvious factor, but in most cases any crappy road has the potential to be dangerous.....and that could be at highway speed going through a construction zone or even a bridge transition that is bad. I know the white-knuckle feeling of HAVING to drive on the highway when you know you have an issue.
Old 08-17-2021, 09:46 AM
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A quick follow up ... ball joints appear fine, no movement at all. Well, there's a very slight movement, but based on other things I've read I believe this is OK. I noticed some slop at the TB upper joint while turning the wheel lock to lock. I double-checked torque and it's at 125lbs ... so I guess the bushing is toast. I just placed another Metal Cloak order.
Old 09-13-2021, 05:03 AM
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Another follow up ... I decided to go ahead and replace the ball joints just to satisfy my own curiosity and they were indeed bad. I installed Teraflex ball joints along with a Metalcloak TB and things are much better. Steering is tight, but I still feel some slight floating from time to time. I noticed my front axle isn't centered (about an 1" out to the passenger). Of course I noticed this after I simply transferred the length of the TB I replaced. I'm not of the symptoms of an off center front axle, but hopeful correcting this will help. I checked my toe (level against face of both tires and measuring back and front) and it seems the dealer did correctly get the 1/16" toe in.

On a side note ... pressing out the original lower ball joints was a chore, but cycling between penetrating oil and heating the knuckle prevailed. I picked a loaner ball joint press kit from Advanced Auto and it did the trick, but the press Teraflex shows in their instruction video would have been better (much wider openings in the press clamp to account for ball joint diameter), but that wouldn't have been free.
Old 09-13-2021, 05:08 AM
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Ball joints are just a pesky nuisance in these D30/44 axle housings with bigger tires. They are one of the most common DW culprits after the TB joints/bolts. Hopefully the TF BJs work out well for you. They still seem to be one of the best options in that mid-tier price range.



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