HELP with AEV 2.5 lift
10-12-2012, 11:59 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by Freewill
Good question. Apparently the rear swaybar just runs at a lower angle. The rear bar is much smaller/weaker than the front so I guess keeping it level is not that important. Nothing stopping a person from installing links that are "just right" however (if they are available).
10-12-2012, 12:55 PM
#12
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Only reason a spring compressor would be needed is if the floor jack and jack stands are too short. With the stands set to about 17" the springs could have been a couple inches longer and still slipped in and out no sweat. That's without even disconnecting the drive shaft.
Rather than renting a compressor, use the rental $ to have the right jack and jack stands on hand. Its safer than a compressor and the whole job will be easier.
Here are some notes I posted after doing mine: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...jks-tf-242035/
Rather than renting a compressor, use the rental $ to have the right jack and jack stands on hand. Its safer than a compressor and the whole job will be easier.
Here are some notes I posted after doing mine: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...jks-tf-242035/
10-12-2012, 05:03 PM
#13
JK Super Freak
I'm an old fart and took my time. Spent a couple full days. Installing the TF Speedbumps instead of stock front bump stops added some extra time, as did running the axles through their range of motion without srprings using a jack to check the bump stop clearance. No need to do that if using stock bump stops and the supplied spacers. I also spent a while installing a front track bar that isn't part of the kit.
Can't emphasize enough that all the control arm and track bar bolts need to stay loose until the Jeep is sitting on its wheels. Then tighten with a torque wrench unless you are very used to tightening hardware of this size.
Because there are so many opposing nut/bolt combinations, I found it useful to have 2 complete 1/2" socket sets on hand. Overall the installation was smooth and everything fit well, but there were some patience-testing moments getting wrenches lined up and having some leverage. My only help was a friend who just had open heart surgery, but without his boot pushing against things a few times it would have been challenging to get things lined up.
10-13-2012, 04:46 AM
#14
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No, did not change them. Its an easy change to make if it seems to be needed.
I'm an old fart and took my time. Spent a couple full days. Installing the TF Speedbumps instead of stock front bump stops added some extra time, as did running the axles through their range of motion without srprings using a jack to check the bump stop clearance. No need to do that if using stock bump stops and the supplied spacers. I also spent a while installing a front track bar that isn't part of the kit.
Can't emphasize enough that all the control arm and track bar bolts need to stay loose until the Jeep is sitting on its wheels. Then tighten with a torque wrench unless you are very used to tightening hardware of this size.
Because there are so many opposing nut/bolt combinations, I found it useful to have 2 complete 1/2" socket sets on hand. Overall the installation was smooth and everything fit well, but there were some patience-testing moments getting wrenches lined up and having some leverage. My only help was a friend who just had open heart surgery, but without his boot pushing against things a few times it would have been challenging to get things lined up.
I'm an old fart and took my time. Spent a couple full days. Installing the TF Speedbumps instead of stock front bump stops added some extra time, as did running the axles through their range of motion without srprings using a jack to check the bump stop clearance. No need to do that if using stock bump stops and the supplied spacers. I also spent a while installing a front track bar that isn't part of the kit.
Can't emphasize enough that all the control arm and track bar bolts need to stay loose until the Jeep is sitting on its wheels. Then tighten with a torque wrench unless you are very used to tightening hardware of this size.
Because there are so many opposing nut/bolt combinations, I found it useful to have 2 complete 1/2" socket sets on hand. Overall the installation was smooth and everything fit well, but there were some patience-testing moments getting wrenches lined up and having some leverage. My only help was a friend who just had open heart surgery, but without his boot pushing against things a few times it would have been challenging to get things lined up.
10-13-2012, 06:04 AM
#16
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I just installed a 2.5 coil lift on mine the other day to help compensate for a heavy bumper and winch I put on a week prior. Having never put a lift on before I looked around online at instruction PDFs from different BB manufacturers. I found most of the instructions associated with the product on sites like Quadratec and so forth. I compared each manufacturers suggested installation methods and determined which seemed the least complicated and applied that to my project. In the end I went out to complete the install only to find after removing the first tire my floor jack took a crap. Being inpatient as I am I said screw it... Adapt and overcome. I put the OEM crap jack in play. It was a little short to get the Jeep up high enough I place the jack stands high enough but just used blocking and bracing under the jack o heighten it. As mentioned the springs come right out providing you disconnect the sway links and lower shock bolts. Putting a 2.5 in longer spring was a little tight but had Household 6 gently push down on the axle while I shimmied re new ones in. Using the OEM jack definitely is not the preferred method but if I can accomplish this using I standard tools for the job in under 3hrs having never done it before you should have no issue. There is a wealth of info out there. If you're still uncertain spend a little time scanning through the online installation PDFs or even google coil or coil spacer install videos while you have a few minutes before the install. You'd be surprised just how simple it really is. In the end you'll learn something about you rig and know what to adjust if something is not dialed in for your preference. Grab a cold one and go for it you'll be happy you did. I won't pay someone to wrench on my rig until I've run out of friends and it has to be towed somewhere.
10-13-2012, 06:14 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by KiowaGuy
Excuse the poor grammar. iPhone ninja strikes again.
10-13-2012, 06:27 AM
#19
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The passenger front shock was my biggest issue. It was so tight at the top trying to work the nut and allen head. I'm sure there is a nice procedure somewhere, but it was late and my patience was running low, so I removed the fuse box and drilled a nice access hole in the tray below. Tightened the shock and patched the hole. There's gotta be a better method, tool or sumthin'
10-13-2012, 08:24 AM
#20
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The passenger front shock was my biggest issue. It was so tight at the top trying to work the nut and allen head. I'm sure there is a nice procedure somewhere, but it was late and my patience was running low, so I removed the fuse box and drilled a nice access hole in the tray below. Tightened the shock and patched the hole. There's gotta be a better method, tool or sumthin'