Originally Posted by JK_Oman

The headers are great, been running them for a month now but recently added the hushpower I feel I lost a bit of power

I might remove it again if it didn't work after a break in period

Originally Posted by sringer

I wan to add the hush power because my exhaust is a little raspy. And I hear those headers are raspy without it. If you do decide to remove it. Take a video with and without it for comparison Maybe?

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Originally Posted by JK_Oman

Sure, i feel a delay in response with hushpower and thinking to remove and switch the catback to either Afe or MBRP

Originally Posted by sringer

Hmm, weird that you feel a delay. That's no good. The more I think about it the less I think I want to drop 2k on headers....

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Originally Posted by JPop

First off, RIPP has done a great job with their headers. You can't get the power out of long tubes without a specific tune for them.

Tube length. If you have a bunch of properly designed headers, tube length is only going to change where your peak torque hits. The longer the primary tube, the lower rpm you hit peak torque. Shorty headers with equal length tubes will see their gains at higher rpms, which isn't necessarily the right fit for this application. Variable length tubes will widen the torque band but be careful as many companies will end up with variable length tubes simply because of fitment as opposed to designing them for appropriate exhaust pulse.

Thermal issues. There are a lot of people who will report melting plug wires and higher under hood temperatures. Stock cast exhaust manifolds have a lower heat conductivity than the materials used in most headers. Add in better cylinder evacuation with headers which also increases fuel burn, leading to higher exhaust gas temperatures and running leaner. This can be addressed by higher octanes, but more importantly thermal barrier coats such as Black Satin or Cermakrome. The advantages of thermal barrier coatings are not only that it keeps heat in the pipes and out of the engine bay, but they also help keep exhaust gas velocity high. Don't order coated headers as third parties do a much better job doing the inside and outside of the tubes. Black Satin is a personal favorite, and for places where road salt is prevalent or corrosion is a concern, you can have a two step process done, Black Satin followed by a Cermakrome coating.

The Y Pipe. The stock Y pipe pretty much sucks. When RIPP states that very small differences in the tube length can make big differences, this is where the issue lies. Primary tube length and diameter is pretty much simple math with the formulas being available to the backyard mechanic for 30 or 40 years. Enter in exhaust pulse and the tube length differences from left to right and you render most to trial and error to get things to work. RIPP of course eliminates the stock Y Pipe. The stock cats diminish exhaust velocity, the stock Y Pipe limits whatever you put in front of it and you can't fix any of the components of the monster.

All that said, cost/value isn't good on any of them. I certainly wouldn't replace a stock exhaust manifold or Y Pipe with another one, while at the same time knowing that the majority of gains posted from long tubes are derived by tuning via a third party device, not the hardware no matter how good it is. Again, the biggest advantage of the RIPP ong tubes are hitting peak torque earlier and for some that might be worth the price of admission.

Originally Posted by sringer

Well I want the supercharger...but 6k...really? Is it worth it?


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