Have 2.5" coil springs, what else is needed?
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bristow, VA
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have 2.5" coil springs, what else is needed?
This is a newbie question that has probably been answered several times here, but it is difficult to find the correct answers...
I just picked up a set of coil springs that will give my 4-door 2.5-3" of lift (they are 3.5" for a 2-door). What else will I need to ensure a proper lift? I am looking at keeping the tires at 33", maybe going to 35" in the future. I only see myself doing light-medium offroad trails only (no rock crawling for a while, wife would kill me if I damage our new Jeep). This is mostly a daily driver.
Do need the longer sway bar links for now? Trackbars/brackets? Control arms?
I am in no rush to get these put on, so I can pick up the pieces as I go.
Thanks!
I just picked up a set of coil springs that will give my 4-door 2.5-3" of lift (they are 3.5" for a 2-door). What else will I need to ensure a proper lift? I am looking at keeping the tires at 33", maybe going to 35" in the future. I only see myself doing light-medium offroad trails only (no rock crawling for a while, wife would kill me if I damage our new Jeep). This is mostly a daily driver.
Do need the longer sway bar links for now? Trackbars/brackets? Control arms?
I am in no rush to get these put on, so I can pick up the pieces as I go.
Thanks!
#2
JK Junkie
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Bloomington, IL
Posts: 2,151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, here's my opinion, I'm sure others will chime in.
You'll need longer swaybar links. The cheap thing to do is get longer ones for the rear and move the rears to the front. I'd get JKS QD's for the front, though. You'll also want longer shocks to take advantage your lift, and when you do that you'll need to ensure your brake lines are long enough since you'll have more droop. If they get tight by testing the droop, adjust by bending the hard lines, adding extension brackets, or longer lines. Be sure your ABS wires aren't being stretched, too.
You might find that your steering is "flighty" due to the decreased camber. This can be corrected by longer, adjustable, front lower control arms, or AEV drop brackets. Depending how the springs settle in and how things are lining up, you might want to think about adjustable track bars down the road, but I don't think there's a hurry on it at all.
When you move to 35" tires, you'll probably need some bump stop enhancement or flat fenders. Even with your 33" tires to prevent rubbing you'll need to adjust your steering stops or change the wheel offset with spacers or different wheels.
You'll need longer swaybar links. The cheap thing to do is get longer ones for the rear and move the rears to the front. I'd get JKS QD's for the front, though. You'll also want longer shocks to take advantage your lift, and when you do that you'll need to ensure your brake lines are long enough since you'll have more droop. If they get tight by testing the droop, adjust by bending the hard lines, adding extension brackets, or longer lines. Be sure your ABS wires aren't being stretched, too.
You might find that your steering is "flighty" due to the decreased camber. This can be corrected by longer, adjustable, front lower control arms, or AEV drop brackets. Depending how the springs settle in and how things are lining up, you might want to think about adjustable track bars down the road, but I don't think there's a hurry on it at all.
When you move to 35" tires, you'll probably need some bump stop enhancement or flat fenders. Even with your 33" tires to prevent rubbing you'll need to adjust your steering stops or change the wheel offset with spacers or different wheels.
Last edited by tslewisz; 01-15-2011 at 07:58 AM. Reason: added last sentence
#4
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bristow, VA
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the info...
Thanks for the input.
I intend to get all of those items as I go. I see 2.5" lift kits that don't have extended sway bar links or track bars. Can I put the springs on without these for now? Or will it just not fit?
Does anyone have experience with the Rough Country QDs? I like the JKS ones, but the RC are half the price... I am also looking at the Skyjacker Extended Rear Sway Bar Links. Anything about them I should know?
Thanks again for all the help!
I intend to get all of those items as I go. I see 2.5" lift kits that don't have extended sway bar links or track bars. Can I put the springs on without these for now? Or will it just not fit?
Does anyone have experience with the Rough Country QDs? I like the JKS ones, but the RC are half the price... I am also looking at the Skyjacker Extended Rear Sway Bar Links. Anything about them I should know?
Thanks again for all the help!
#5
JK Junkie
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Bloomington, IL
Posts: 2,151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the input.
I intend to get all of those items as I go. I see 2.5" lift kits that don't have extended sway bar links or track bars. Can I put the springs on without these for now? Or will it just not fit?
Does anyone have experience with the Rough Country QDs? I like the JKS ones, but the RC are half the price... I am also looking at the Skyjacker Extended Rear Sway Bar Links. Anything about them I should know?
Thanks again for all the help!
I intend to get all of those items as I go. I see 2.5" lift kits that don't have extended sway bar links or track bars. Can I put the springs on without these for now? Or will it just not fit?
Does anyone have experience with the Rough Country QDs? I like the JKS ones, but the RC are half the price... I am also looking at the Skyjacker Extended Rear Sway Bar Links. Anything about them I should know?
Thanks again for all the help!
#6
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes
on
154 Posts
When you lift, the axles are pulled off to one side. (one tire will be sticking out of the wheel well, the other is pulled inside). Depending on how far the axle is offset, it could cause issues. Adjustable trackbars or brackets are the fix.
When you lift, the swaybars go from being level to angled down. When you flex with them angled down, they have a bad tendency of flipping around backwards. (this has been known to happen on a lift at the shop). While you may not like the outcome, we enjoy the pics, so be sure to post them up...
When you lift, the caster drops. As noted above, this causes flighty handling. The need to address the issue has a lot to do with preference and tolerance, so drive it after the lift and see what you think. (at 3+", I definitely wanted new arms) Your options are Cams, new longer/shorter 'fixed' arms, drop brackets, new Adj arms. They all have pro's/con's, so research it and decide which works for you.
Brake lines may be tight after the lift. Find someplace to flex and check them. Get new extended lines or spend $10 at the hardware store and make brackets.
Bumpstops. Depending on your setup, bumpstops are probably a good thing to have. They keep the coils/shocks from over-compressing, and keep the tires from ripping the fenders off. The front stops go 'inside' the coils, so I would suggest installing them with the coils. Saves you having to rip the front end apart a second time. The rears are an easy 2 bolt install and can be done at any time.
Driveshafts. There are a lot of variables involved, just keep an eye on the boot up front and the joints at the tcase ends of both shafts. You will need a set of adjustable control arms to set the pinion angles on each new shaft if/when it goes.
When you lift, the swaybars go from being level to angled down. When you flex with them angled down, they have a bad tendency of flipping around backwards. (this has been known to happen on a lift at the shop). While you may not like the outcome, we enjoy the pics, so be sure to post them up...
When you lift, the caster drops. As noted above, this causes flighty handling. The need to address the issue has a lot to do with preference and tolerance, so drive it after the lift and see what you think. (at 3+", I definitely wanted new arms) Your options are Cams, new longer/shorter 'fixed' arms, drop brackets, new Adj arms. They all have pro's/con's, so research it and decide which works for you.
Brake lines may be tight after the lift. Find someplace to flex and check them. Get new extended lines or spend $10 at the hardware store and make brackets.
Bumpstops. Depending on your setup, bumpstops are probably a good thing to have. They keep the coils/shocks from over-compressing, and keep the tires from ripping the fenders off. The front stops go 'inside' the coils, so I would suggest installing them with the coils. Saves you having to rip the front end apart a second time. The rears are an easy 2 bolt install and can be done at any time.
Driveshafts. There are a lot of variables involved, just keep an eye on the boot up front and the joints at the tcase ends of both shafts. You will need a set of adjustable control arms to set the pinion angles on each new shaft if/when it goes.
#7
I would invest in the adj front and rear track bars to get your axles centered. The aftermarket track bars are BEEFY! For rear adj rear swaybar links look at Northridge very reasonable priced. If you get a floaty feeling driving invest in some lower adj Control arms to get your castor higher (stock +4.2). Also, if you are considering 35's get some bumpstops (2") better to install while you are replacing your coil springs. Brake Lines will need extended like others have stated.
What are you doing with your shocks getting extensions or new longer shocks. I would recommend new shocks to take advantage of your lift.
What are you doing with your shocks getting extensions or new longer shocks. I would recommend new shocks to take advantage of your lift.
Trending Topics
#8
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bristow, VA
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for everything
I'm slowly piecing the parts together. Before I put the springs in I will pick up the adjustable track bars (do I just need a bracket for the rear?) and sway bar links.
For shocks, I will probably just get extensions until I can get better shocks.
Lastly, control arms if needed. Does upper and lower matter? Are the after market upper just if you want beefier?
Thanks again!!!
For shocks, I will probably just get extensions until I can get better shocks.
Lastly, control arms if needed. Does upper and lower matter? Are the after market upper just if you want beefier?
Thanks again!!!
#9
JK Freak
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm slowly piecing the parts together. Before I put the springs in I will pick up the adjustable track bars (do I just need a bracket for the rear?) and sway bar links.
For shocks, I will probably just get extensions until I can get better shocks.
Lastly, control arms if needed. Does upper and lower matter? Are the after market upper just if you want beefier?
Thanks again!!!
For shocks, I will probably just get extensions until I can get better shocks.
Lastly, control arms if needed. Does upper and lower matter? Are the after market upper just if you want beefier?
Thanks again!!!
Front lowers will work best for you. To raise your caster back to a stock setting, you lengthen the lowers..or shorten the uppers. Unfortunately, most uppers won't adjust shorter than the stock ones.