H-3 replament bulbs
03-19-2008, 09:21 AM
#1
JK Freak
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H-3 replament bulbs
I have a set of Hella 500's that I just bought. they come with 55w H3 bulbs.
would it be a problem replacing them with 100w or 130w bulbs?
Specifications - H3 12 Volt
Bulb Type Coating Watts Lumens Life Color K Filaments
Halogen None 55W 1450 675 3000 1
Halogen None 100W 2200* 250* 3000 1
Halogen None 130W 2750* 100* 3000 1
would it be a problem replacing them with 100w or 130w bulbs?
Specifications - H3 12 Volt
Bulb Type Coating Watts Lumens Life Color K Filaments
Halogen None 55W 1450 675 3000 1
Halogen None 100W 2200* 250* 3000 1
Halogen None 130W 2750* 100* 3000 1
03-19-2008, 09:33 AM
#2
JK Freak
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i wouldn't suggest it, plus i don't think they work.
From what I can remember from my autopart sales days (10 years ago)
The h3 55 bulbs and h3 100 watt bulbs are slightly different. I think there is a metal tab that is slightly different. Plus the 100watt bulb will got a lot hotter and if the light housing isn't built for it (which i don't think it is) it will melt it.
I'd suggest looking for a h3 55watt bulb through a different brand. Sylvania may make the h3 is the silverstar line which produces a brighter/whiter light
From what I can remember from my autopart sales days (10 years ago)
The h3 55 bulbs and h3 100 watt bulbs are slightly different. I think there is a metal tab that is slightly different. Plus the 100watt bulb will got a lot hotter and if the light housing isn't built for it (which i don't think it is) it will melt it.
I'd suggest looking for a h3 55watt bulb through a different brand. Sylvania may make the h3 is the silverstar line which produces a brighter/whiter light
03-19-2008, 10:55 AM
#4
JK Junkie
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I'm pretty sure that there are no physical differences in the bulbs (I've been in the parts business for the last 15 years) and the Hella 500's have a glass lens/housing that fit into a plastic holder. I don't think it would be a problem and I have been thinking about doing the same exact thing.
That being said, I have been wrong before.....just that one time though.
That being said, I have been wrong before.....just that one time though.
03-20-2008, 07:37 PM
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JK Freak
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I have a set of Hella 500's that I just bought. they come with 55w H3 bulbs.
would it be a problem replacing them with 100w or 130w bulbs?
Specifications - H3 12 Volt
Bulb Type Coating Watts Lumens Life Color K Filaments
Halogen None 55W 1450 675 3000 1
Halogen None 100W 2200* 250* 3000 1
Halogen None 130W 2750* 100* 3000 1
would it be a problem replacing them with 100w or 130w bulbs?
Specifications - H3 12 Volt
Bulb Type Coating Watts Lumens Life Color K Filaments
Halogen None 55W 1450 675 3000 1
Halogen None 100W 2200* 250* 3000 1
Halogen None 130W 2750* 100* 3000 1
03-21-2008, 04:02 AM
#6
JK Freak
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I friend of mine has run 100w H3 bulbs in his stock Hella 500s for years without a problem. I recently changed the stock 55w bulbs in my Hella 500s to 100w H3s and so far I have not had a problem. The Hella H3 replacement bulbs switch out without a problem. The 100w bulbs are much brighter than the stock 55w bulbs. As long as I don't melt the light housing all is well. Good luck
If I melt one, it will be a cheap fix.
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03-21-2008, 07:46 AM
#8
JK Super Freak
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I used 130W H3 bulbs in my CJ's offroad lights.
I don't recall any differences in wattage shapes.
"H3" defines the shape of the mount/base and electrical connection.
A. Without glass lenses and metal housings, you run a great risk of melting. (high-temp plastic can also work) High-wattage bulbs get VERY hot. You also want to have the reflectors be at least 6" or larger. The larger reflector is usually farther away from the bulb, along with the housing.
B. You need to upgrade the wiring and add a relay. Popping 20+ amps (if you go all the way to 130W) across a normal switch is not a good idea.
I don't recall any differences in wattage shapes.
"H3" defines the shape of the mount/base and electrical connection.
A. Without glass lenses and metal housings, you run a great risk of melting. (high-temp plastic can also work) High-wattage bulbs get VERY hot. You also want to have the reflectors be at least 6" or larger. The larger reflector is usually farther away from the bulb, along with the housing.
B. You need to upgrade the wiring and add a relay. Popping 20+ amps (if you go all the way to 130W) across a normal switch is not a good idea.
Last edited by sixt7gt350; 03-21-2008 at 07:50 AM.
03-21-2008, 07:51 PM
#9
JK Freak
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My thoughts as well. If the 100w driving lights get to hot and melt the housings I am not out much $$, I can live with it. The relays are rated up to 30 amps and the wiring is fused with 15 amp fuses. If the amps spice up you will pop a cheap fuse before you do any damage to your hard wiring or relays. The 100w driving lights are nice on the dark country roads out. Can't wait to take them wheeling next week.