Mookie

Are they necessary for a non-rubi jk? I went with a Clayton 3.5" lift with 35"s instead of the 4.5" / 37" setup based on recommendation from my local shop. However, the EVO website says that even the 35"s will bend the axles without gussets/sleeves.

mpkelley20

I've been told by just about everyone that the minimum to do is gussets. And I have a Rubi. I picked up the Teraflex gussets but now I am thinking of adding the sleeves as well. From what I remember, it was believed that the gussets was all that was needed to fix the weak part of the axle but it has been well documented here that there are potential other issues that can be minimized/prevented by adding sleeves and trusses.

I've "heard" that bending can occur by just driving even if you never go off-road...

For me, spending under $40 for the gussets and having a friend weld them on for me is cheap insuarance. Going with sleeves...a bit more $$ and work but way cheaper than replacing an axle!

nthinuf

If you can afford it, have them put in with the gears.

Lots of threads on this to browse through, just look around a bit. And there is also some info in the faq's (top of this modified area). These front housings (rubi included) are not known for their strength.

X2 !! My 30 is bent, and I am far from a 'hard-core' wheeler. Daily driver with occasional forest service roads for some scenery and a few potholes - and the housing is bent up almost an inch....

Mookie

The parts are reasonable. I'm sure the labor would be crazy. I wonder if the sleeves can be installed with the axles in place?

wazooz2424

i guess you could leave the axle on, but it would be such a PIA that its easier to just pull the axle and give yourself some room to work. then, when its all welded and done, you can also slap some fresh black paint on the axle.

07XMan2Door

Of course Evo is going to tell you that you will damage your Jeep if you don't buy their products.

I went to those with first hand experience with bent axle housings & opened up steering "C's", Jeepers with jacked up axles & mechanics.

I just took a Dana 30 front axle to the scrap yard that was bent on the long side & the left C was opened up 3/16ths of an inch. This came out of my buddies unlimited.

One awesome mechanic in town told me to "be careful" after I put my 35's on with my stock Dana 30. I said, "how careful?". He told me that while the Unlimiteds are heavier & more prone to bending the front axle & c's, that I could open the top of my C's simply by hitting a pothole at speed with the heavier tires on.

Furthermore, the added leverage of a 35 inch tire over a stock one is huge. Double that leverage if you have re-geared & aired down your tire. Now you're really pulling & twisting on things.

Chrysler designed the front Dana 30 on these (non rubicon) JK's to work with the stock set-up. I believe they do. The stock jeep, (non Rubicon) has small tires with 32 pounds of air in them. They have no lockers & their sway bars are connected. You take a Jeep like this out wheeling & you will lose traction LONG before you start to twist & bend stuff.

The difference in torque between my 3.21 gears & my 5.13's is astounding. The difference between these 35" Toyo's & the stockers is HUGE. Both in rotating weight & circumfrence (leverage). You add a locker, air those heavy, aggressive, fat tires down & diconect your front swaybar; now you're cookin with heat. Lot's more grip, lots more stress on your shit.

I bought the Evo sleeves & C's because I don;t have the cash to buy the Pro Rock 44. I think the tubes & gussets are a bandade. A very good bandade. In fact, I think they, when properly installed put the strength of the Dana 30 in between the OEM Dana 44 & the ProRock. If you look at the Rubi C's, they're not much stronger than ours!!

Hope this helps, sorry so wordy!!

Mookie

I appreciate everyone's input. I was able to find a good thread about installing sleeves. Searching is tough when you're using an iPhone and the jk app. I'll get a price on labor later this afternoon.

nthinuf

You realize that they have to drill a bunch of holes completely through the housing, right? Then clean out all of the shavings and junk inside? Then slide in the sleeves? And 'then' weld the sleeve and housing together. So yes, it would be better to have the axle shafts removed during the process...

Red Dog

Get the gussets if you have 35’s or bigger. The sleeves are not muck to do if you do them at the same time as the re-gearing. The sleeves from Tara Flex are the best bang for the buck, if you want my

captjay

the axle shafts have to be removed. i did mine wth the axle still attached but a lot does have to be unbolted to give access for the drill, used big jack stands under the frame, but drilling the holes is a pain. i went through 2 bits, unless you have access to a big drill, i would not even try this on your own. an 18v just will not cut it. the 18v would drill the hole (barely) but would not fully punch through. i ended up renting a heavy duty drill.

if you go with sleeves and gussets, i would recommend installing sleeves first. couple of the holes are where the gussets install.

edit: forgot to mention i have evo sleeves and evo gussets