Grease gun eats zerk!
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Grease gun eats zerk!
Everytime I grease my zerk fittings for my LCA's from Teraflex, my grease gun won't let go of the zerk and I feel like I will break it off. This may sound stupid and I'm sure it's an easy fix, but how do I get my grease gun let go of the Zerk easier? I assume It's due to the pressure of squeezing in the grease...
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Originally Posted by abailey
Everytime I grease my zerk fittings for my LCA's from Teraflex, my grease gun won't let go of the zerk and I feel like I will break it off. This may sound stupid and I'm sure it's an easy fix, but how do I get my grease gun let go of the Zerk easier? I assume It's due to the pressure of squeezing in the grease...
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Everytime I grease my zerk fittings for my LCA's from Teraflex, my grease gun won't let go of the zerk and I feel like I will break it off. This may sound stupid and I'm sure it's an easy fix, but how do I get my grease gun let go of the Zerk easier? I assume It's due to the pressure of squeezing in the grease...
Howard
#4
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Thanks all. The end of my nozzle does twist. I have never had to adjust it nor have i ever had this problem before. I may just grab some different zerks.
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Well I just wne outside and gave it a shot again. It was in fact operator error. I never knew I could back off the nozzle to release the pressure.
I did find out, however, that my teraflex LCA's have a bit of a zerk design flaw. If the zerk is screwed in to snug, it binds up the bushing still leaving plenty of exposed threads. Which also probably prevents the grease from going in! It looks like I need some small washers to take up the extra threads.
I did find out, however, that my teraflex LCA's have a bit of a zerk design flaw. If the zerk is screwed in to snug, it binds up the bushing still leaving plenty of exposed threads. Which also probably prevents the grease from going in! It looks like I need some small washers to take up the extra threads.
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What kind of grease is recommended? I used the red Mobil 1 synthetic grease but I am still getting some squeaks from the front end. I have heard using white lithium is better. Anyone know?
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#8
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Well I just wne outside and gave it a shot again. It was in fact operator error. I never knew I could back off the nozzle to release the pressure.
I did find out, however, that my teraflex LCA's have a bit of a zerk design flaw. If the zerk is screwed in to snug, it binds up the bushing still leaving plenty of exposed threads. Which also probably prevents the grease from going in! It looks like I need some small washers to take up the extra threads.
I did find out, however, that my teraflex LCA's have a bit of a zerk design flaw. If the zerk is screwed in to snug, it binds up the bushing still leaving plenty of exposed threads. Which also probably prevents the grease from going in! It looks like I need some small washers to take up the extra threads.
#9
I was told by the local shop that built my front DS that white lithium is better than the Mobil1 synth for most suspension parts. They stated it was because the Mobil synth. needs a decent amount of friction to heat the grease up and make it lubricate. White lithium supposedly needs less heat to do it's job properly. They said to use Mobil on faster moving parts (axles) and any parts that see a lot of frictional force often. I have white/black lithium in my suspension components and DS. Mobil in axles (RCV boot) and my sway bar links. Only downside to the white lithium is that it tends to wear out faster than the Mobil.