centerfieldr162

Sooooooooo.. what to get? I talked to Dave today and he sells the Coast driveshafts and they are on sale right now for $429. I've heard good things about Tom Woods also. Any advice or suggestions? Also, how is the installation? I figured I'd leave it up to a shop since I don't have much time with school right now.

Thanks!

fadeout

Tom woods has been getting a bunch of bad reviews lately on here I'd say go with Coast unless there's a drivetrain shop near you and you can have the shaft custom made for your vehicle.

Evil_keeps_me_young

when i do need them i'm buying from

h t t p://ballisticjeep.com/buy_online


I'm sick of paying through the nose because the jk is the newest model...

nthinuf

Do some searching before you order, these guys are getting some horrible feedback recently.

Revolving around taking payments for items they tell customers are 'in stock', and not following through on actually shipping the products - because the products are not, in fact, in stock. And then either playing games or flat out refusing to talk to the people they have ripped off.

I have no actual experience with this company, just been reading thread after thread of non-stop headaches concerning them.

Evil_keeps_me_young

well i looked and couldn't find anything bad about them. did you have a link?

genesbro

If I was going to get a new front driveshaft I think I would have one built using the oem flex joint to avoid the exploding xfer case problem that is caused when the double cardon joint fails.

jctnt1

I run Tom Woods with hd yokes. Woods has represented to me great service supplying a strong product. Yes, I had my front double Cardon fail after 1 year of running it (I do not believe this happens frequently, mine went after my front axle sheared the stab bracket and let loose the axle to violently shift side to side enough the callapse the sides of both shocks). NO the t-case did not blow. YES Woods rebuilt it with no problems or cost to me. I ran my stock one while waiting to get it shipped back.
I've heard good things about Coast and others, I just don't feel Woods has any "issues".

genesbro

Yeah I guess that is what it is called. If the center point of the double is kept lubed that might make it last. It requires that pointy kind of greaser instead of the normal zerk greaser. So yes I think I would lube mine at least once a month if I had that style. They were not designed for full time operation on the highway, but for systems that had freewheeling hubs when in 2wd so the joint was not always spinning the way it does on the JK.

So get a good grease gun and keep it lubed for sake of your xfer case.

nthinuf

Doh, I misread it. I was thinking Ballistic Fabrication, but maybe they are not connected to Ballistic Jeep?

mkjeep

Ok, let me throw out my general 2cents. I'm on my 4th front ds through two different companies, 1 transfer case rebuild, then a brand new one.
#1. Make sure whomever you get the driveshaft from that it's properly balanced. You have about a 50/50 shot on this. Just the way it is.

#2.Make sure you have proper pinion angle in the rear , for the front set your castor so where you can drive comfortably with decent handling, but also where the vibes are pushed to at 75mph before it even starts. And it will vibe at high speeds even if properly balanced because your in a trade off on angle vs. handling. the lower the susp lift, the less of a prob you have with this. If on long commutes, drive under that vibe speed. Or just pull the damn thing for long trips.If you got money,get lockout hubs.

#3. GREASE THE DAMN THING every 3,000m . Cheap joints,expensive joints,centerball cv,splined section, it all needs greasing frequently. When in doubt, grease it even more. Grease is cheap, parts are not.


JeReel,Coast,Teraflex,Tatton,TomWoods,BobWoods,Ron Jeremy'sbackyardcornerboner Shaftmart, doesn't matter all that much, a driveshaft is pretty much a driveshaft.