Gorilla Lug Nuts...Stripping Wheel Studs?
01-16-2012, 04:53 AM
#11
JK Super Freak
I use the thin Gorilla nuts because I can't fit a standard socket in the hole in the Blackrock wheels.. I have to start them by hand as well because the hole is too deep/narrow to get my fingers on it.
That said, I haven't had any issues with cross threading them.. Of course, now that I've said that...
That said, I haven't had any issues with cross threading them.. Of course, now that I've said that...
10-16-2016, 07:57 PM
#12
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Pittsburgh Area (Beaver Co.)
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Resurrecting an old thread...
I've now destroyed 3 studs, 1 each on 3 wheels over the past year.
1 on passenger rear when rotating a year or so ago.
1 on passenger front when rotating a month or so ago.
1 on drivers rear when trying to resolve a vibration from the last rotation.
I call into question the quality of these gorilla lugs... or the studs themselves.
I do not use an impact wrench. Hand thread all lugs until snug, then tighten, then torque to 95 ftlbs.
In each case, the damage was done when removing the lug. They feel as if they are fused to the stud, and require a ridiculous amount of effort to break loose. Once loose, it is an effort to remove... because with each turn, the lug is chewing off the threads of the stud. So much so, the last one, the lug got stuck in the key because it had swelled so much from heat/debris from the stud.
I've begun to gob on some anti-seize. That seems to help.
Just a word of caution. If you buy aftermarket wheels and they include gorilla lugs, spend some extra coin and get something else or use the factory lugs if possible. You'll end up spending that coin on new studs in the end if you go with the gorillas
/end rant
I've only seen a handful of reports similar to mine in the Jeep world. Another handful or so in other vehicle forums. Most all of the responses were centered on over-torquing or cross-threading. I can assure you that neither is the case in any of my incidents.
I've now destroyed 3 studs, 1 each on 3 wheels over the past year.
1 on passenger rear when rotating a year or so ago.
1 on passenger front when rotating a month or so ago.
1 on drivers rear when trying to resolve a vibration from the last rotation.
I call into question the quality of these gorilla lugs... or the studs themselves.
I do not use an impact wrench. Hand thread all lugs until snug, then tighten, then torque to 95 ftlbs.
In each case, the damage was done when removing the lug. They feel as if they are fused to the stud, and require a ridiculous amount of effort to break loose. Once loose, it is an effort to remove... because with each turn, the lug is chewing off the threads of the stud. So much so, the last one, the lug got stuck in the key because it had swelled so much from heat/debris from the stud.
I've begun to gob on some anti-seize. That seems to help.
Just a word of caution. If you buy aftermarket wheels and they include gorilla lugs, spend some extra coin and get something else or use the factory lugs if possible. You'll end up spending that coin on new studs in the end if you go with the gorillas
/end rant
I've only seen a handful of reports similar to mine in the Jeep world. Another handful or so in other vehicle forums. Most all of the responses were centered on over-torquing or cross-threading. I can assure you that neither is the case in any of my incidents.
Last edited by gillamonstar; 10-17-2016 at 04:47 AM.
10-16-2016, 09:29 PM
#14
JK Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the same problem. When I was using the gorilla lugs 4 of my studs were stripped. I was lucky enough to have Discount Tires do the damage. They had them replaced and I put the stock ones back on. Since then I have not had a problem. I would stay away from gorilla lugs.