Going from 2.5 lift to 3.25 lift?
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I currently have a 2.5 lift on my 2012 wrangler unlimited automatic. Wanting to add 3/4" spacers to make it a 3.25" lift. After costing out the extra parts which is the spacers, front lower control arms & front drive shaft it would be roughly $1000. just seeing if the 3/4" is worth the cost. Would you be able to see the difference? Also is a front drive shaft really required? thanks for any input.
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I currently have a 2.5 lift on my 2012 wrangler unlimited automatic. Wanting to add 3/4" spacers to make it a 3.25" lift. After costing out the extra parts which is the spacers, front lower control arms & front drive shaft it would be roughly $1000. just seeing if the 3/4" is worth the cost. Would you be able to see the difference? Also is a front drive shaft really required? thanks for any input.
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Mainly just for looks don't do much off roading. Im running 35" (no rubbing issues) and in my opinion it looks stuffed. just thought 3/4 spacers would help since some 3.25" kits come with the spacers. thought it would be cheap just to add the spacers but guess not worth it if having to buy all the other parts. that's why I was asking if there was a noticeable difference in 2.5" and 3.25" lift
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What it comes down to is that : it's your jeep. If you want it to be a bit taller, go for it.
For your questions, it's all a bunch of gray areas. Will you be able to see the difference from the little bit of added height? Yes. Will you like it better? No clue.
Onroad only, you may have no issues with the driveshaft. Hard to tell. Flex it afterward and check clearances. It's actually something that you should be crawling underneath and watching even now. (you are checking that tcase joint, right?)
The caster will be a little lower, causing the steering to be a bit more flighty than it is now. Drive it will the added height and see what you think. If you don't like the steering and want to correct it, you can get arms, or even look at cheaper drop brackets instead. (you don't have cams now, correct?)
Both axles will be offset a bit further to one side. I'll assume you have a rear trackbar bracket now? If not, plan on getting one. If you choose to center the front axle, look at an adj trackbar.
The front draglink and trackbar will be running at steeper angles, and you will be getting into the range where people add draglink flips (or cheaper drop pitmans). Research it!!
All brakelines will be stretched a bit tigher. Onroad only, maybe not a problem. But be sure and check them. (You can unhook some lines, and you can make brackets for like $5 at home depot.)
Do you have longer shocks now? Stock shocks with extension brackets?
For your questions, it's all a bunch of gray areas. Will you be able to see the difference from the little bit of added height? Yes. Will you like it better? No clue.
Onroad only, you may have no issues with the driveshaft. Hard to tell. Flex it afterward and check clearances. It's actually something that you should be crawling underneath and watching even now. (you are checking that tcase joint, right?)
The caster will be a little lower, causing the steering to be a bit more flighty than it is now. Drive it will the added height and see what you think. If you don't like the steering and want to correct it, you can get arms, or even look at cheaper drop brackets instead. (you don't have cams now, correct?)
Both axles will be offset a bit further to one side. I'll assume you have a rear trackbar bracket now? If not, plan on getting one. If you choose to center the front axle, look at an adj trackbar.
The front draglink and trackbar will be running at steeper angles, and you will be getting into the range where people add draglink flips (or cheaper drop pitmans). Research it!!
All brakelines will be stretched a bit tigher. Onroad only, maybe not a problem. But be sure and check them. (You can unhook some lines, and you can make brackets for like $5 at home depot.)
Do you have longer shocks now? Stock shocks with extension brackets?
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Sounds like a 1" body lift may be the way to go for you. No changes to drive line angles but would "unstuff" the wheels. And a LOT cheaper. IMO.
Last edited by 14Sport; 10-14-2016 at 02:27 PM.