Gibson Headers
01-22-2014, 06:37 PM
#31
JK Super Freak
I've had the Ceramic headers paired with a Magnaflow muffler for almost 2 years now. I like it......sort of.
The performance gains are there but minimal. I really like the sound.
If you have or plan to get these headers here are things that will help you.
As mentioned before in this thread get some Stage 8 bolts for the collector or you'll be tightening them every 1500 miles. (lost a couple of bolts on the tail before going stage 8)
Stage 8 8950 Collector Locking Nut and Bolt Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive
HEAT HEAT HEAT. These things got hot and WILL burn your spark plug boots and wires. Your battery box will melt as well as your coil if you don't get that heat "shield" in the right position. (my coil didn't melt, but I met a guy that claims his did).
Wires:
Accel makes a wire set with ceramic boots and high temp wires. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You'll need a 45 for the #4.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-170902C
These wires are NOT enough as I recently found out. My #4 burned up. It melted inside the boot.
SO you'll want some boot protectors like these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My next step is to wrap the headers. I found a kit with everything I should need.
Amazon.com: DEI 010110 Black HT Coating Exhaust Wrap Kit: Automotive
There you go. If you're going to go with these headers, get protected.
The performance gains are there but minimal. I really like the sound.
If you have or plan to get these headers here are things that will help you.
As mentioned before in this thread get some Stage 8 bolts for the collector or you'll be tightening them every 1500 miles. (lost a couple of bolts on the tail before going stage 8)
Stage 8 8950 Collector Locking Nut and Bolt Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive
HEAT HEAT HEAT. These things got hot and WILL burn your spark plug boots and wires. Your battery box will melt as well as your coil if you don't get that heat "shield" in the right position. (my coil didn't melt, but I met a guy that claims his did).
Wires:
Accel makes a wire set with ceramic boots and high temp wires. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You'll need a 45 for the #4.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-170902C
These wires are NOT enough as I recently found out. My #4 burned up. It melted inside the boot.
SO you'll want some boot protectors like these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My next step is to wrap the headers. I found a kit with everything I should need.
Amazon.com: DEI 010110 Black HT Coating Exhaust Wrap Kit: Automotive
There you go. If you're going to go with these headers, get protected.
01-23-2014, 12:41 AM
#32
I have installed the Gibson GP403S-C Ceramic Coated Performance Headers recently. I opted for the ceramic coating which is supposed to keep under hood temperatures as low as possible.
I did not replace my cracked factory manifolds with direct OEM replacements as they are known to fail again and again. I did not choose the Gibson headers for performance but for reliability in that regard. The install was tough but mainly because the manual did not recommend to remove the fender flares. If you plan to do the install on your own do yourself a favor and remove the fender flares first thing! Otherwise it is almost impossible to get proper access to the hardware.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mzyvqmv0S8 The Gibson headers are a perfect fit but they are a pain in the ass to bolt to the motor block. I recommend to retorque the bolts to the motor block and to the Y-pipe when warm because you won't be able to torque them hard enough for a tight connection. The connection between the headers and the Y-pipe is a metal on metal connection only and needs a certain amount of pressure to stay tight.
You may also want to get yourself a new set of spark plug wires and six new spark plugs in order to replace them once you are in there and have removed the factory manifolds. I did not use the 45° boot on cylinder #4. The boot was too stiff to put it on properly and it had caused misfires on #4. Other than that you will need good hand tools, WD-40 or similar, a good flash light and more patience/time than you would expect.
I have run 2000 miles with the headers and so far no plastic has melted and ho bolt has come loose. I will keep an eye on plastic components and check the bolts though.
I did not replace my cracked factory manifolds with direct OEM replacements as they are known to fail again and again. I did not choose the Gibson headers for performance but for reliability in that regard. The install was tough but mainly because the manual did not recommend to remove the fender flares. If you plan to do the install on your own do yourself a favor and remove the fender flares first thing! Otherwise it is almost impossible to get proper access to the hardware.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mzyvqmv0S8 The Gibson headers are a perfect fit but they are a pain in the ass to bolt to the motor block. I recommend to retorque the bolts to the motor block and to the Y-pipe when warm because you won't be able to torque them hard enough for a tight connection. The connection between the headers and the Y-pipe is a metal on metal connection only and needs a certain amount of pressure to stay tight.
You may also want to get yourself a new set of spark plug wires and six new spark plugs in order to replace them once you are in there and have removed the factory manifolds. I did not use the 45° boot on cylinder #4. The boot was too stiff to put it on properly and it had caused misfires on #4. Other than that you will need good hand tools, WD-40 or similar, a good flash light and more patience/time than you would expect.
I have run 2000 miles with the headers and so far no plastic has melted and ho bolt has come loose. I will keep an eye on plastic components and check the bolts though.
01-23-2014, 08:21 AM
#34
We all know that the 3.8L is not a powerhouse. However with a six speed manual, the aFe intake system, the SuperChips tuner and the Gibson headers I am getting a nice throttle response and a throaty sound. The biggest performance gain came from the tuner though and the sound definitely comes from the air intake. The headers may help with both but I can't really recommend them to anybody who is simply looking for performance. A tuner and an air intake offer a better bang for the buck.
I got the headers because the factory manifolds are made of cast iron and tend to crack. If there is any measurable performance gain coming from the headers, I am glad to take it. But I really just didn't want to deal with cracked manifolds anymore. Time will show if I have to deal with melted plastic components instead.
I got the headers because the factory manifolds are made of cast iron and tend to crack. If there is any measurable performance gain coming from the headers, I am glad to take it. But I really just didn't want to deal with cracked manifolds anymore. Time will show if I have to deal with melted plastic components instead.
01-23-2014, 08:30 AM
#35
JK Junkie
We all know that the 3.8L is not a powerhouse. However with a six speed manual, the aFe intake system, the SuperChips tuner and the Gibson headers I am getting a nice throttle response and a throaty sound. The biggest performance gain came from the tuner though and the sound definitely comes from the air intake. The headers may help with both but I can't really recommend them to anybody who is simply looking for performance. A tuner and an air intake offer a better bang for the buck. I got the headers because the factory manifolds are made of cast iron and tend to crack. If there is any measurable performance gain coming from the headers, I am glad to take it. But I really just didn't want to deal with cracked manifolds anymore. Time will show if I have to deal with melted plastic components instead.
01-24-2014, 02:36 AM
#36
Don't get me wrong. I like the sound of the intake system because it only makes a difference at wide open throttle. At idle or when I downshift the engine sounds like stock and that's what makes it enjoyable to me. I would hate a constant roar like you would get from most aftermarket catbacks.
01-24-2014, 07:07 AM
#37
JK Junkie
Don't get me wrong. I like the sound of the intake system because it only makes a difference at wide open throttle. At idle or when I downshift the engine sounds like stock and that's what makes it enjoyable to me. I would hate a constant roar like you would get from most aftermarket catbacks.
01-24-2014, 09:16 AM
#38
You may find this interesting but it's not a complete catback.
It's called an axleback exhaust and it is most likely more restrictive than a real catback:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...xhaust-284246/
It's called an axleback exhaust and it is most likely more restrictive than a real catback:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...xhaust-284246/
01-25-2014, 11:13 AM
#39
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Hampton va
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01-25-2014, 11:33 AM
#40
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=526201"/> I have these headers for about 4.5 years .They have been great but the one problem I have is the two bolts and nuts in the picture keep coming lose . I have tried lock washers and two nuts. It takes about two months and I need to tighten them up so they do not leak. Has anyone had this problem and solved it. l am sorry for the question here but I do like the sound and I also have the Gibson split exhaust if this helps. p.s I did have to rap them to keep the heat down and it has work so far.