Getting some work done at the shop... anything else worth having done?
06-19-2015, 05:55 AM
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Getting some work done at the shop... anything else worth having done?
So I had my jeep in the shop since something was leaking onto or out of the rear axle. Without being able to really lift the vehicle high enough and any leak being of significant concern, I decided the benefit of paying a trusted professional would outweigh the risk of trying to diagnose the problem myself with no expectation of being able to fix it.
It turns out a gasket went bad in on the rear axle causing grease to flow out over the inside of my passenger side rear wheel, which trashed the brake pad on that side. So, they're working up an estimate today to get it fixed up.
So, since they're going to have to do some dissassembly anyway, does anyone think I should look into adding anything relatively inexpensive that I couldn't do myself? Such as C gussets? I don't have the cash on hand to replace anything significant although I would like new axles altogether, but that's not in the cards anytime soon. I'm just interested in upgrades that require welding/air tools/a real garage... resources I don't have... that could help strengthen my suspension and/or drive train. This is for a 2007 JKUX, so I'm not surprised stock parts are starting to die.
Thanks for any input!
It turns out a gasket went bad in on the rear axle causing grease to flow out over the inside of my passenger side rear wheel, which trashed the brake pad on that side. So, they're working up an estimate today to get it fixed up.
So, since they're going to have to do some dissassembly anyway, does anyone think I should look into adding anything relatively inexpensive that I couldn't do myself? Such as C gussets? I don't have the cash on hand to replace anything significant although I would like new axles altogether, but that's not in the cards anytime soon. I'm just interested in upgrades that require welding/air tools/a real garage... resources I don't have... that could help strengthen my suspension and/or drive train. This is for a 2007 JKUX, so I'm not surprised stock parts are starting to die.
Thanks for any input!
06-19-2015, 09:49 AM
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The rear axle doesn't have C's, so no need for Gussets back there. Some people Truss the rear, depends on your needs/use. I imagine that there are some rear sleeves available somewhere, but I don't recall seeing any posts about them. Other weld-on options might be control arm skids, a heavier duty trackbar bracket, raise the shock brackets.
Maybe have them check the axle shaft flanges?
Maybe have them check the axle shaft flanges?
06-19-2015, 05:29 PM
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So, my takeaway here is there aren't any real no-brainer mods I'd be stupid not to do in this situation (thanks for the reply, nthinuf). So... I'm going to ask a dumb question. Before I do, let me preface: I've been trying to learn everything I can, but I've only started paying attention to my suspension in the last couple months and my JK, purchased a year and change ago, is my first time with a modify-able vehicle. This isn't a mall crawler. I've intentionally made it as utilitarian as possible. I haven't done any rock crawling or true off-roading, nor do I intend to this season, but my goal is to make my JK as apocalypse-proof as my budget allows, one project at a time. I'm an electrical engineer, so I know enough about taking things apart and voiding warranties to be dangerous, but I'm learning as I go as far as mechanical work goes.
So, here it goes. What's the story with axles? My rear one is kind of screwed up and I figure I'm going to pay a few hundred for them to fix it up. From what I've gathered, it's a Dana 30. I see ads all over CL for axle housings, explicitly stating that it's only the housing and none of the interior parts. If I could get my paws on a 44 housing, is there any benefit in having it installed rather than getting my current one fixed up? Or, with the whole business about interior parts not being included, should I instead be thinking further down the road about a full axle upgrade? And, in general, would I want to upgrade my axles? How common is it for people to change out their axles (as in, it seems like everyone puts a lift on their jeeps)?
Anyway, to be more succinct, should I just get my rear axle fixed up or consider having the housing replaced? And, with axle work, can I do it in increments, or do I need to commit the several thousand to just change it all out?
So, here it goes. What's the story with axles? My rear one is kind of screwed up and I figure I'm going to pay a few hundred for them to fix it up. From what I've gathered, it's a Dana 30. I see ads all over CL for axle housings, explicitly stating that it's only the housing and none of the interior parts. If I could get my paws on a 44 housing, is there any benefit in having it installed rather than getting my current one fixed up? Or, with the whole business about interior parts not being included, should I instead be thinking further down the road about a full axle upgrade? And, in general, would I want to upgrade my axles? How common is it for people to change out their axles (as in, it seems like everyone puts a lift on their jeeps)?
Anyway, to be more succinct, should I just get my rear axle fixed up or consider having the housing replaced? And, with axle work, can I do it in increments, or do I need to commit the several thousand to just change it all out?
06-19-2015, 05:53 PM
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A few very early 07's (build dates prior to Jan 07, I think) came with a rear D35. All others since then have come with a D44 rear. There are a bunch of diff cover charts online, find one and compare to see what you have. Or on Jeeps website, you can email them your VIN and request a build sheet.
IF you have a d35, look around for a 44, you can generally find them for pretty cheap (fully loaded, not bare housings). It will be a direct swap, just unbolt yours and bolt it up. But be sure to find out the gear ratio before purchasing.
The bare housings you are seeing could be front rubi 44's, not rear non-rubi 44's? Also verify that the states 'JK'. Non-jk housings will be narrower, use different gears, etc. Lots of people swap their front rubi internals into beefier aftermarket housings. Unless you can do all the welding and gear setup yourself, I would not recommend a front rubi44 bare housing build.
As far as aftermarket goes, forget rear 44's, as there are some relatively inexpensive d60's out there. But, if you end up going 60/14b, you will need to do a lot more research on width, bolt pattern, semi/full float, whatever else. Just an opinion, but it sounds like you have no need for one-ton axles? So a suggestion would be to watch for a set of take-off rubi axles from someone who upgraded. If you are lucky, you can find them already beefed up and at a decent price.
Another note on the stock housings - they are all basically the same strength, rubicon, non-rubicon, d30, d44. Same width, tube diameter, tube wall thickness, same brakes, C's, hubs. So just from a strength perspective, there is no benefit to a rubi housing over a non-rubi housing. It is all internal where you will see the improvements. And probably why we see so many posts about beefing stock housings.
IF you have a d35, look around for a 44, you can generally find them for pretty cheap (fully loaded, not bare housings). It will be a direct swap, just unbolt yours and bolt it up. But be sure to find out the gear ratio before purchasing.
The bare housings you are seeing could be front rubi 44's, not rear non-rubi 44's? Also verify that the states 'JK'. Non-jk housings will be narrower, use different gears, etc. Lots of people swap their front rubi internals into beefier aftermarket housings. Unless you can do all the welding and gear setup yourself, I would not recommend a front rubi44 bare housing build.
As far as aftermarket goes, forget rear 44's, as there are some relatively inexpensive d60's out there. But, if you end up going 60/14b, you will need to do a lot more research on width, bolt pattern, semi/full float, whatever else. Just an opinion, but it sounds like you have no need for one-ton axles? So a suggestion would be to watch for a set of take-off rubi axles from someone who upgraded. If you are lucky, you can find them already beefed up and at a decent price.
Another note on the stock housings - they are all basically the same strength, rubicon, non-rubicon, d30, d44. Same width, tube diameter, tube wall thickness, same brakes, C's, hubs. So just from a strength perspective, there is no benefit to a rubi housing over a non-rubi housing. It is all internal where you will see the improvements. And probably why we see so many posts about beefing stock housings.
Last edited by nthinuf; 06-19-2015 at 06:08 PM.
06-19-2015, 10:00 PM
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A few very early 07's (build dates prior to Jan 07, I think) came with a rear D35. All others since then have come with a D44 rear. There are a bunch of diff cover charts online, find one and compare to see what you have. Or on Jeeps website, you can email them your VIN and request a build sheet.
IF you have a d35, look around for a 44, you can generally find them for pretty cheap (fully loaded, not bare housings). It will be a direct swap, just unbolt yours and bolt it up. But be sure to find out the gear ratio before purchasing.
The bare housings you are seeing could be front rubi 44's, not rear non-rubi 44's? Also verify that the states 'JK'. Non-jk housings will be narrower, use different gears, etc. Lots of people swap their front rubi internals into beefier aftermarket housings. Unless you can do all the welding and gear setup yourself, I would not recommend a front rubi44 bare housing build.
As far as aftermarket goes, forget rear 44's, as there are some relatively inexpensive d60's out there. But, if you end up going 60/14b, you will need to do a lot more research on width, bolt pattern, semi/full float, whatever else. Just an opinion, but it sounds like you have no need for one-ton axles? So a suggestion would be to watch for a set of take-off rubi axles from someone who upgraded. If you are lucky, you can find them already beefed up and at a decent price.
Another note on the stock housings - they are all basically the same strength, rubicon, non-rubicon, d30, d44. Same width, tube diameter, tube wall thickness, same brakes, C's, hubs. So just from a strength perspective, there is no benefit to a rubi housing over a non-rubi housing. It is all internal where you will see the improvements. And probably why we see so many posts about beefing stock housings.
IF you have a d35, look around for a 44, you can generally find them for pretty cheap (fully loaded, not bare housings). It will be a direct swap, just unbolt yours and bolt it up. But be sure to find out the gear ratio before purchasing.
The bare housings you are seeing could be front rubi 44's, not rear non-rubi 44's? Also verify that the states 'JK'. Non-jk housings will be narrower, use different gears, etc. Lots of people swap their front rubi internals into beefier aftermarket housings. Unless you can do all the welding and gear setup yourself, I would not recommend a front rubi44 bare housing build.
As far as aftermarket goes, forget rear 44's, as there are some relatively inexpensive d60's out there. But, if you end up going 60/14b, you will need to do a lot more research on width, bolt pattern, semi/full float, whatever else. Just an opinion, but it sounds like you have no need for one-ton axles? So a suggestion would be to watch for a set of take-off rubi axles from someone who upgraded. If you are lucky, you can find them already beefed up and at a decent price.
Another note on the stock housings - they are all basically the same strength, rubicon, non-rubicon, d30, d44. Same width, tube diameter, tube wall thickness, same brakes, C's, hubs. So just from a strength perspective, there is no benefit to a rubi housing over a non-rubi housing. It is all internal where you will see the improvements. And probably why we see so many posts about beefing stock housings.
06-19-2015, 10:54 PM
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I thought they were rubi rears
If you do end up going with a bare rubi housing, note the costs involved to fill it. The locker alone was around $1400 the last I saw. So be sure to check into the arb/ox lockers that will fit those housings. (I think the arb for the rubi housing still needs 35 spline shafts)
There seem to be far more issues reported with front housings than rear, so there are many, many more people that choose to upgrade the front. What, if anything, you do will depend on ... various things. (Intended use, tire size, budget, personal opinion on strength vs intended use, plain ole luck.) There are a bunch of threads to read through for opinions, they get added almost on a daily basis. And of course, there is absolutely no consensus. But the c gussets you were thinking about for the rear housing are probably a really good start for the front housing.
Last edited by nthinuf; 06-19-2015 at 11:01 PM.