captjay

who's to say if it is good enough? it's going to be opinions, but for me, yes it is good enough
I can't complain. For my use, it has done just fine. interstate driving I have no problems, but I'm not driving like it race car either. i stay 65-70mph range. I may shoot up to 75 to pass someone and personal opinion is it passes just fine. the rpm shoots up a little high but once you pass, it levels back off.

offroad, it's not the 5.13 IMO that is the issue, it is the lack of power in the 3.8 and for my style, I would rather have an Atlas transfer case. I did offroad with my stock 4.10 first before I replaced wth 5.13, so yes there was a huge difference. I made it up hills, rocks, mud, sand, etc... that I never could get through on 4.10. the engine no longer bogs down when in harry spots, but sometimes you just cant get enough power over something wth this engine.

so all in all, yes it has worked for me. now this was my opinion for my Jeep and I'm sure there will be some people who will disagree completely and say you NEED 5.38 to run 37's on the auto tranny, everyone has different uses for their Jeeps, treats them differently, drives different, etc..

hope that helped

JdTms11

Mike id hold off on the gears and get your bumper squared away. the amount of money you spend to armor up your dana 30 and add a locker would cost you close to the same as just grabbing up a rubi take off. if your going to build your 30 you'll have the cost of the locker, ARB? which will need a compressor and then the gussets and selves and you'll have to get all that crapola welded on by someone unless you can swoon Eric

like you said your going to be going to 37s in about a year, deal with your axle and gears then, dunno where your gonna put a spare 37. that 35 barely fits as is lol.



p.s. im just still amazed that you haven't toasted that thing yet. i cranked through U-joints and axle shafts (and a carrier) like it was my job, and i only had 33's then

captjay

what is the point of buying a rubi take off that will need to be regeared anyways, and still have nearly the same issues as the D30?

JdTms11

for the money he would spend on building up a 30 he could just get the Rubi then all that has to be done is the gears, it already has a locker. instead of dropping 800-1000 for a locker (eaton e locker or ARB + compressor) and then the cost to gear. take that cash instead and put it towards a rubi and only have to re gear and with the 44 your getting bigger gears which will be stronger than the 30s.

captjay

oh ok thanks man. the issues I was referring to though are the axle C and the axle tubes. the tubes are the same as the D30

Bosox5

Thanks for the info guys, I am still in the air. I think just based on the wheeling I do I may just stick with my D30, regear and maybe just do gussets and a aussie locker in front. I wasn't looking at arbs, as awesome as I have seen them do I just don't have $$ for them.

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nthinuf

Don't know if you have taken the handling on snow/ice into account, but you might look at a TrueTrac up front instead of a lunchbox.

Bosox5

roger that, it seems maybe it would be better to do a truetrac in the rear D44 than to lock my weak D30? Especially with the 5.13s i am planning on. Or would it more beneficial to just do both??

nthinuf

You will get a lot of opinions on locking a 30, and even more on front or rear first.

My opinion on the benefits of the TrueTrac -
-It is a limited, not a full locker, so should be a lot more forgiving on the drivetrain.
-It is full case, and is a lot stronger than a lunchbox installed inside the factory case.
-It doesn't use clutches, so will not wear out like a lunchbox or the factory limited.
-A little brake pressure will lock it up so you get 'near' locker performance out of it.
-Significantly less expensive than selectables.
-No cables or switches or lines or compressors.
-And for those that drive on the slick stuff, it is a much better choice than an auto-locker, especially up front.


As far as front/rear or both goes, depends on the budget and needs. I think that front and rear TrueTracs is a great setup for anyone who doesn't spend a majority of their time in wheels-in-the-air off-roading, (they can't compete with a full locker for that, but as noted, a tap of the brakes will get you the extra traction when needed). If you can only afford one, I would probably go with the rear first, and add the front later. But, that's a judgment call.

If you don't want to sell a lung for selectables and/or axle upgrades, you could do a lot worse than having truetracs front and rear.

Bosox5

Decisions, decisions...thanks for the info.


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