nthinuf

I agree that re-gearing is the way to go, just suggesting that 5.38's may not be optimal if you tow a lot at freeway speeds.

I have 5.13's with 34" tires, and tow a 3500lb boat. When these tires wear out, I'll be going up to 35's to bring my towing rpm down a bit. (if I did not tow, I would choose 5.38's any day)

08JKWrangler

What are your RPM's at say 70 mph with the 5.13's / 34" tires?

By the way, where did you get your gears done?

I found a place in Cedar Park that will do the gears for $1,600 all in.

NGINIER

$1600 is a little steep. I'd keep shopping...

nthinuf

I drove to Houston to get them done. Search on 'Jeep JK' in the Houston Craigslist, he advertises there daily. The prices had been going up the last i saw, not sure what he's charging now. Or consider driving up to SLC. They are (or were, at least) running a special with C gussets and installation included.


Haven't had it on the freeway in months, but I'll get some OD on/off rpms this weekend. This will get you going in the mean time...

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...76&postcount=4

42RLE—Automatic, Four-Speed Overdrive
Gear Ratios 1st 2.84
Gear Ratios 2nd 1.57
Gear Ratios 3rd 1.0
Gear Ratios 4th 0.69

--------
One of you math whizzes join in here, but
35's and 5.38's = 2495rpm at 70
x .31 ? (for the difference between 4th and 3rd)
2495 * .31 gives 773.45 rpm higher
2495 + 773.45 = 3268 rpm at 70 with OD off.

Guessing it isn't that simple and I'm missing something important, but like I said, I'll get some numbers over the weekend.

JUSTIN01

Atomic 4x4 right? I've heard nothing but good from them (word of mouth), but they are pricey. I will probably be making the drive to SLC in Dallas too when I do gears and other technical stuff.

08JKWrangler

Yep. Had a friend get some work at Atomic and he gave them a great review. The problem is that the boss (wife) will not be happy if I drop $1600 - $2000 on a set of gears. Hoping to buy mine from one of the online vendors and find someone who will install them at a lower cost.

RIPPMODS

Sure – so far (and after 300 kits sold) we have had zero returns with the entire 2009 line – in early 09 we redesigned the drive shaft and bearing housing to tolerances only machinery can pick up. We swapped up our bearings to a dual seal SKF ceramic unit and packed it with Kluber grease. This bearing costs over $120 and is comfortable in freezing cold and boiling hot and anywhere in-between. We manufacture the idlers from 304 stainless and fill them with 4 SKF bearings all that’s spun by a genuine Gates Kevlar reinforced drive belt… all the aluminum parts are powder coated and all the hardware is hardened and zinc coated – the clamps are stainless, the air filter is cotton and washable, the couplers are 4 ply nylon reinforced. The Blower is a Vortech V3 top of the line unit with every option they offer built in… the electronics are sealed with Military spec sealer and the harness is hand crafted in house, soldered and shrink wrapped… so yea you get what you pay for…

That being said – and as we’ve said in previous posts – we tested our kit for 33000 miles before making it public – however before we made it public we removed the engine and took it apart to see what it looked like – the JK engine is very stout internally with a very impressive rotating assembly.

Collectively we have completed over 100000 miles of real world testing, we have kits in Alaska and Dubai – which is about as hot and cold as it gets. There are rescue teams that rely on our system and we feel confident that they won’t have issues. Our test mule after completing 66000 miles supercharged, drove from NYC to LV then up to MOAB for Eastwr Jeep Safari and back home again with no issues and was later sold off to a new owner. This is a Jeepers kit.

To answer the question ethically and the only way it can be answered is the supercharger is not a substitute for gearing – there’s only one way to build a JK and the gears are a quintessential part of the program.

Automatic trans
5:13’S 35 boarder line 37
5:38’S 37 or 38’s
A Hypertech Speedo calibrator is absolutely imperative and required.

The problem is not the power (per-say) its the final drive ratio, its very long and a taller gearing makes the biggest difference…. However and no matter which way you cut it – you only have 125 rear wheel HP WITH OR WITHOUT GEAR’s so with gears you produce 220-240 rear wheel HP and 230lbs/ft or torque- say what you want - that’s more - and more allows you to further enjoy your JK .


Question welcome

veretas

Typically, what kind of HP/toq increase should someone expect with the Ripp mod?? thanks

RIPPMODS

No problem - we just want o make it clear that we don't cut corners when it comes to the quality of the products -

Oh sure the early systems that came back where assessed and immediately addressed - the newest systems are tanks - we over built and over engineered.

We have had returns but not based on product failure - there's no such things as no bumps in the road - but we want to make sure that we take care of any issues right away - from time to time we get a used unit in for re-sale but its not often.

80 TO 120 Rear Wheel HP and 70-100 Lbs/ft of torque
Well you know how we do it – we want to keep our integrity and tuners and performance consultants as well – RIPP has been and still is a speed shop as well.

True- Redneck put us through the paces when we approached this community and we said we would keep the info solid – We believe that its important that “sponsors” comply with the sport as a whole and not just what’s best for them – We’ve tested and continue to test product from two perspective 1) the client 2) the manufacture.. if it works for us – it works for everybody.

RIPPTECH

RedneckJeep

Right. ......and I'll be FIRST in line to admit this old dawg learned some new tricks. ....and this old dawg has built a LOT of blower motors through the years. Yall have always been nothin but straight forward with the community. You cannot ask for more than that.