Ft Traction installation Questions
10-30-2007 | 06:49 AM
#1
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 217
Likes: 1
From: Hanover, PA
Ft Traction installation Questions
I have on order a FT 3 inch Ultimate. Thanks Northridge. I have never installed a lift before but I am going to do it myself. I have read WOL write up that is very good BTW. I have a few questions that I have come up with.
1. The angle of the rear drive shaft?
# 64. If you have a 2-door model Jeep JK Wrangler, your rear drive shaft will be at a steep enough angle that it can cause premature wear of your CV joint boots. Before installing your Full Traction Suspension rear upper control arms, I would recommend that you set the pinion up so that it’s parallel (or close to it as possible) with the drive shaft. Using the floor jack you have already positioned under the pinion and an angle finder, raise the pinion up until the degree angle on the pinion is the same as the angle reading on the drive shaft.
Would it be a good idea to do this with a 4 door?
2. When measuring the track bars and control arms: you rotate the jam nuts on the rod ends all the way until they stop at the head. Then, adjust the entire rod end assembly until the gap between the jam nut and control arm measures.
The head looks like it is welded to the treads. So their might be some differences in the heads due to the welds. Has anyone had problems getting the arms to the correct lengths? Just trying to save some work.
3. I have read about the front sway bar links "flipping" at full extension. Would it be better to install the disconnects?
4. I have a skid row skid plate do I still need to disconnect the front drive shaft and will it hit it once the lift is installed?
Thanks for any help that the members can give
1. The angle of the rear drive shaft?
# 64. If you have a 2-door model Jeep JK Wrangler, your rear drive shaft will be at a steep enough angle that it can cause premature wear of your CV joint boots. Before installing your Full Traction Suspension rear upper control arms, I would recommend that you set the pinion up so that it’s parallel (or close to it as possible) with the drive shaft. Using the floor jack you have already positioned under the pinion and an angle finder, raise the pinion up until the degree angle on the pinion is the same as the angle reading on the drive shaft.
Would it be a good idea to do this with a 4 door?
2. When measuring the track bars and control arms: you rotate the jam nuts on the rod ends all the way until they stop at the head. Then, adjust the entire rod end assembly until the gap between the jam nut and control arm measures.
The head looks like it is welded to the treads. So their might be some differences in the heads due to the welds. Has anyone had problems getting the arms to the correct lengths? Just trying to save some work.
3. I have read about the front sway bar links "flipping" at full extension. Would it be better to install the disconnects?
4. I have a skid row skid plate do I still need to disconnect the front drive shaft and will it hit it once the lift is installed?
Thanks for any help that the members can give
10-30-2007 | 07:28 AM
#3
JK Jedi
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,567
Likes: 1
From: So. Cal.
I have on order a FT 3 inch Ultimate. Thanks Northridge. I have never installed a lift before but I am going to do it myself. I have read WOL write up that is very good BTW. I have a few questions that I have come up with.
1. The angle of the rear drive shaft?
# 64. If you have a 2-door model Jeep JK Wrangler, your rear drive shaft will be at a steep enough angle that it can cause premature wear of your CV joint boots. Before installing your Full Traction Suspension rear upper control arms, I would recommend that you set the pinion up so that it’s parallel (or close to it as possible) with the drive shaft. Using the floor jack you have already positioned under the pinion and an angle finder, raise the pinion up until the degree angle on the pinion is the same as the angle reading on the drive shaft.
Would it be a good idea to do this with a 4 door?
2. When measuring the track bars and control arms: you rotate the jam nuts on the rod ends all the way until they stop at the head. Then, adjust the entire rod end assembly until the gap between the jam nut and control arm measures.
The head looks like it is welded to the treads. So their might be some differences in the heads due to the welds. Has anyone had problems getting the arms to the correct lengths? Just trying to save some work.
3. I have read about the front sway bar links "flipping" at full extension. Would it be better to install the disconnects?
4. I have a skid row skid plate do I still need to disconnect the front drive shaft and will it hit it once the lift is installed?
Thanks for any help that the members can give
1. The angle of the rear drive shaft?
# 64. If you have a 2-door model Jeep JK Wrangler, your rear drive shaft will be at a steep enough angle that it can cause premature wear of your CV joint boots. Before installing your Full Traction Suspension rear upper control arms, I would recommend that you set the pinion up so that it’s parallel (or close to it as possible) with the drive shaft. Using the floor jack you have already positioned under the pinion and an angle finder, raise the pinion up until the degree angle on the pinion is the same as the angle reading on the drive shaft.
Would it be a good idea to do this with a 4 door?
2. When measuring the track bars and control arms: you rotate the jam nuts on the rod ends all the way until they stop at the head. Then, adjust the entire rod end assembly until the gap between the jam nut and control arm measures.
The head looks like it is welded to the treads. So their might be some differences in the heads due to the welds. Has anyone had problems getting the arms to the correct lengths? Just trying to save some work.
3. I have read about the front sway bar links "flipping" at full extension. Would it be better to install the disconnects?
4. I have a skid row skid plate do I still need to disconnect the front drive shaft and will it hit it once the lift is installed?
Thanks for any help that the members can give
2. Just use the length in the write up. Then check and redo. It will take an adj or two to get it on anyway. It only takes a minute to unbolt it adj and rebolt. Turning the steering wheel back and forth makes it easy to put back on (2 people)
3. Not sure, I remember a thread about this but I think it was someone elses lift or installer error. Maybe someone else can chime in.
4. It is easir to take the plate off than to disconnect the drive shaft (at least the stock plate, not sure about skid row) However, your driveshaft will have more flex now, so you may have to notch it if skidrow has not made an accommodation for that.
10-30-2007 | 07:32 AM
#4
JK Jedi
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,567
Likes: 1
From: So. Cal.
You dont want your angle to be too straight as it straightens out on acceleration. It also gets worse under decelleration. It's a balance, so that is why I said to go with WOL measurements, he has seen alot of miles on and off road and seems to be where you want it. Also get a reading of where it is stock and try to end up there.