FT 3" Ultimate -- Lessons Learned.
#1
FT 3" Ultimate -- Lessons Learned.
Here are a few things I've learned, for those looking to install this kit.
- If you have a winch and 3rd party front bumper, get the Heavy Duty (HD) springs. These are not mentioned anywhere that I've found - you have to ask for them. The rake will be rather pronounced with the standard springs.
- I have a Riddler diff cover - almost identical to the Crane. If you have a thick cover like this, the trackbar will rub when you brake hard (front compresses), or take a hard right turn (left side compresses). The solution I've found so far is to make the upper control arm 1/8" shorter than factory, and the bottom 1/8" longer. This gives me about 5% caster. I wish I had more, but it'll do for now. I still have to test on full flex off-road with the swaybar discoed -- best scenario: still some room and I can extend the bottom control arms, worse scenario: I get a little contract and have to grind the 'edges' on the face of the diff, and stay with 5% caster.
- One of the control arms was not tapped all the way, so I had to grind away 3 threads on the adjustment bolt.
- Measure, measure, and then measure again. Make sure left and right matching arms are the same length. :-)
- Eddie is very helpful - both for his write-ups and by private e-mails.
- FT appears willing to ship me some new HD springs once they're in stock. I'm using 3/4" spacer up front for now.
There you go... :-)
js.
- If you have a winch and 3rd party front bumper, get the Heavy Duty (HD) springs. These are not mentioned anywhere that I've found - you have to ask for them. The rake will be rather pronounced with the standard springs.
- I have a Riddler diff cover - almost identical to the Crane. If you have a thick cover like this, the trackbar will rub when you brake hard (front compresses), or take a hard right turn (left side compresses). The solution I've found so far is to make the upper control arm 1/8" shorter than factory, and the bottom 1/8" longer. This gives me about 5% caster. I wish I had more, but it'll do for now. I still have to test on full flex off-road with the swaybar discoed -- best scenario: still some room and I can extend the bottom control arms, worse scenario: I get a little contract and have to grind the 'edges' on the face of the diff, and stay with 5% caster.
- One of the control arms was not tapped all the way, so I had to grind away 3 threads on the adjustment bolt.
- Measure, measure, and then measure again. Make sure left and right matching arms are the same length. :-)
- Eddie is very helpful - both for his write-ups and by private e-mails.
- FT appears willing to ship me some new HD springs once they're in stock. I'm using 3/4" spacer up front for now.
There you go... :-)
js.
#2
Hey js, thanks for the update and I'm glad to hear you were able to make some adjustments to your control arms to get your track bar to clear better. If you can get your caster set to about +7°- 8°, I think you will find your ride will be sweet.
If there's anything else I can do to help you out or anyone for that matter, please don't hesitate to ask
If there's anything else I can do to help you out or anyone for that matter, please don't hesitate to ask
#3
Hey js, thanks for the update and I'm glad to hear you were able to make some adjustments to your control arms to get your track bar to clear better. If you can get your caster set to about +7°- 8°, I think you will find your ride will be sweet.
If there's anything else I can do to help you out or anyone for that matter, please don't hesitate to ask
If there's anything else I can do to help you out or anyone for that matter, please don't hesitate to ask
I remember people in the past judging you before meeting you or finding out what kinda person you are, this is a prime example to anyone who asks what kinda person you are, and we all appreciate your help and information you provide to others.
Thanks again
P.S. full traction HD springs are an A+ for anyone who doesn't have them, request a set when ordering a lift...
#4
You know Eddie,
I remember people in the past judging you before meeting you or finding out what kinda person you are, this is a prime example to anyone who asks what kinda person you are, and we all appreciate your help and information you provide to others.
Thanks again
P.S. full traction HD springs are an A+ for anyone who doesn't have them, request a set when ordering a lift...
I remember people in the past judging you before meeting you or finding out what kinda person you are, this is a prime example to anyone who asks what kinda person you are, and we all appreciate your help and information you provide to others.
Thanks again
P.S. full traction HD springs are an A+ for anyone who doesn't have them, request a set when ordering a lift...
Seriously, if you are planning on getting an aftermarket HD steel bumper and winch, GET the HD coils. As mentioned, you have to ask for them as most catalogs haven't been updated to include this info. But, if you aren't planning to get a bumper or winch, you might find the HD coils will make your front end sit too high and ride a bit stiff.
#5
While we're at it...
- Order a new passenger side upper control arm bolt, which you will need to cut when removing the factory control arm in that location (this has been mentioned many times before, and applies equally to any kit that requires removal of the factory part, but I think it bears repeating)
- Toyo Open Country M/T 35x15x13.5's on steel wheels w/ 4" backspacing (as pictured in early FT promo shots) will rub under trail conditions. I shimmed the rear bump stops up by about 1/2" on stacks of washers, and this helps tremendously, but they still rub occasionally (maybe this is "normal" but it surprised me)
- One of my control arms was not properly tapped either. This caused me a lot of heartburn due to leaving too little time to install the lift before a long trip, but it appears to be a regular problem.
- Eddie's writeup was not done when I installed my kit, but I did find Dave from Northridge 4x4 very helpful and sympathetic -- too bad he was at EJS in Moab when I had my control arm issue.
- Order a new passenger side upper control arm bolt, which you will need to cut when removing the factory control arm in that location (this has been mentioned many times before, and applies equally to any kit that requires removal of the factory part, but I think it bears repeating)
- Toyo Open Country M/T 35x15x13.5's on steel wheels w/ 4" backspacing (as pictured in early FT promo shots) will rub under trail conditions. I shimmed the rear bump stops up by about 1/2" on stacks of washers, and this helps tremendously, but they still rub occasionally (maybe this is "normal" but it surprised me)
- One of my control arms was not properly tapped either. This caused me a lot of heartburn due to leaving too little time to install the lift before a long trip, but it appears to be a regular problem.
- Eddie's writeup was not done when I installed my kit, but I did find Dave from Northridge 4x4 very helpful and sympathetic -- too bad he was at EJS in Moab when I had my control arm issue.
#6
How much of a difference do the HD springs make. I have the FT basic 3" kit with adjustable lower front control arms, and am adding as I can afford it. I was going to add 1" spacers to the front when I get a bumper and winch, but now I'm not sure if I should just get the HD springs. Are they any taller, or just stiffer, and how would it affect the ride vs. the regular 3" springs? I really don't care for the rake, and would rather have springs that will level the Jeep instead of stacking spacers.
#7
How much of a difference do the HD springs make. I have the FT basic 3" kit with adjustable lower front control arms, and am adding as I can afford it. I was going to add 1" spacers to the front when I get a bumper and winch, but now I'm not sure if I should just get the HD springs. Are they any taller, or just stiffer, and how would it affect the ride vs. the regular 3" springs? I really don't care for the rake, and would rather have springs that will level the Jeep instead of stacking spacers.
Adding spacers to an already overloaded spring is a band-aid at best. Yes, it will lift it back up, but the spring is still forced to operate in a semi-collapsed state, out of it's target range. The spring will fatigue faster and eventually
a) break
or
b) wear out quickly
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#8
Another question on the HD springs... I got the Premium lift... assume I have the normal front springs... I have a slight rake, nothing that I'm dissatisfied with. I don't have a winch, do have an AEV bumper... I doubt I'm loading the springs up too bad.
So the question is: obviously with a HD spring, my front will come up a little... Is the ride much different (stiffer)... and when going off road, I would think that w/a HD spring, I might not get as much flex... just seems logical (stiffer spring = less flex)... is this the case or is the difference negligable?
-Thanks-
So the question is: obviously with a HD spring, my front will come up a little... Is the ride much different (stiffer)... and when going off road, I would think that w/a HD spring, I might not get as much flex... just seems logical (stiffer spring = less flex)... is this the case or is the difference negligable?
-Thanks-
#9
Hey mmccurdy, have you had a chance to read through my write-up since? If you are having any other issues with your lift, perhaps you will find some useful information in it that might help you out.
#10
How much of a difference do the HD springs make. I have the FT basic 3" kit with adjustable lower front control arms, and am adding as I can afford it. I was going to add 1" spacers to the front when I get a bumper and winch, but now I'm not sure if I should just get the HD springs. Are they any taller, or just stiffer, and how would it affect the ride vs. the regular 3" springs? I really don't care for the rake, and would rather have springs that will level the Jeep instead of stacking spacers.