sneck

i recently swapped about my front axle, and added a locker to it. i regeared as well, and opted not to put a locker in the rear, and I have the factory LSD back there. I hadn't found too many obstacles I couldn't climb before, and now that I have the locker in the front, I feel like my jeep is unstoppable. I know a few people have shrugged the factory LSD, but its pretty decent, certainly better than an open diff. if you anr't going to regear for now, just add the locker in the front, and beef up the front end. when you get around to regearing, you can toss a locker in the rear at that point if you feel like you need it, but I'll say I'm super happy with my locker front/lsd rear. I get to keep my nice road manners, and I get wicked rock crawling to boot!

burbingus

I have a JKU sport, and I spent a lot of time trying to decide my strategy for lockers and gearing. If I was to do it over again, I think I'd get a PR44 or some such thing in the front for peace of mind with the 37s; however, my built D30 has been doing pretty well.

I decided to save up and wait to get everything installed - selectable lockers front and rear (ARB), regearing, sleeves and gussets for the front, alloy axleshafts. Occassionally you can find great deals with lockers and axleshafts or gears, and you might wait to find a really good deal for what you need. Getting it all done at once saved a lot of money in installation costs - probably around $750 in my case. I had already installed the ARB compressor beforehand and set up the wiring for the locker switches beforehand, so that saved on installation cost as well.

I also like the ARB lockers because they've got a good reputation, you don't need to worry about their mechanical strain on the drivetrain through normal driving, and it's great to have an air compressor on board (I hear the constant duty compressors are pretty awesome). Any offroad shop should have a lot of experience with ARB or Detroit locker installation and maintenance.

So I recommend getting all the work done at the same time if you can as it will save you money on installs over the long run.

Micah

jimdoss

Well, I've decided to lock the front first. I'll be locking the rear within a year, so even if this turns out to be a mistake, it won't be long before it's fixed. I'm also going to have the front sleeved and gusseted.

Next big question is to go with 4.56 or 4.88 gears. Decisions, decisions!

Jim

suicideking

I also went through this decision recently. When I got estimates for a locker install in the D30, for what I wanted, came to about $1200 installed for a Detroit + sleeve and gussets. Like you, many were telling me not to build the D30 (including the shop that quoted the Detroit).

I decided to do an axle swap instead (installed a week ago). I had intended to just bite the bullet and save the money. I ended up finding someone selling a near new Rubi D44, only 2500 miles on it and never taken off road. I got the D44 for $1500 + shipping so couldn't resist. Then had sleeves, gussets, and a front diff cover installed so saved a lot on the labor doing all of that at once. I didn't need gears yet because I have 33's. So will end up paying the labor on gears when I move up to 35's.

So my vote is either put the locker in the rear and then save up for a front axle swap. Or just hold off on the locker for now and save for the axle swap.

Of course, it's your Jeep, do what you want. But strongly consider if you want to do the locker in front. If you're going to end up doing an axle swap later, it's wasted money.

Jonathan_JK

I say rear first.

I use the rear more than the front. Using the front makes it a pain to make the jeep go where you want it to as far as steering.

Maybe it's the Jeep Gods telling me I need hydro assist steering... Or would that not really help steering with the front locked?

ROXNMUD

I'm with you here. This weekend I installed Teraflex sleeves, Artec front axle armor, Synergy ball joints, and a Spartan locker. Probably about 8 hours work, way less than a new housing.

jordy

Locked is locked. Point it in a direction you want to go and it will get you there. Steering doesn't do much with everything locked up, especially when aired down.

Chuck-The-Ripper

Rear would be my first choice. When climbing the weight is all transferred to the rear of the vehicle giving it most of the traction.

nthinuf

If you think about it in a few months, throw up a review on that locker. It's one that doesn't get a lot of feedback.

Jonathan_JK

I do a lot of Beach driving. With the front locked it wants to keep going straight in the soft sand. Air down to 16 psi and lock the rear usually works fine. Soft sand is the worst. I see a lot of open/open trucks get stuck easy on the beach. But then again I'v seen Locked/Locked take them selfs down to the frame on soft sand.... but its more rare.