Front pinion angle pic
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The easiest way to cure your caster ds angle issue is with a pr44 unlimited. It gives you an additional 4 degrees of caster so you can have your caster at 5.0 and still have the pinion pointing up 5 degrees. I have a 4 inch lift and went with 6.0 caster and 4.0 degrees pinion angle and its perfect. If I hadnt gone with the pro rock my pinion angle would be at zero with 6.0 degrees caster. Its well worth the time of pulling out the front axle and putting in a new one. I did find a buyer for my factory axle so I didnt have it laying around the garage wondering what to do with it. Not sure why they come from factory with such a limited amount of caster/pinion?? Hope that helps.
Dave
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Last edited by dave7200; 10-27-2012 at 06:13 AM.
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Originally Posted by dave7200
The easiest way to cure your caster ds angle issue is with a pr44 unlimited. It gives you an additional 4 degrees of caster so you can have your caster at 5.0 and still have the pinion pointing up 5 degrees. I have a 4 inch lift and went with 6.0 caster and 4.0 degrees pinion angle and its perfect. If I hadnt gone with the pro rock my pinion angle would be at zero with 6.0 degrees caster. Its well worth the time of pulling out the front axle and putting in a new one. I did find a buyer for my factory axle so I didnt have it laying around the garage wondering what to do with it. Not sure why they come from factory with such a limited amount of caster/pinion?? Hope that helps.
Dave
Dave
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Another thing that will cure it that is not quite so expensive is to put on a set of spyntec lock out hubs on. Then it really doesnt matter what the pinion angle is at because the only time the drive shaft turns is when the hubs and transfer case are locked in four wheel drive. The vast majority of the time your not in four wheel drive!! The people ive talked to that have them say they work great and are glad they went that route.
Dave
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Originally Posted by dave7200
Another thing that will cure it that is not quite so expensive is to put on a set of spyntec lock out hubs on. Then it really doesnt matter what the pinion angle is at because the only time the drive shaft turns is when the hubs and transfer case are locked in four wheel drive. The vast majority of the time your not in four wheel drive!! The people ive talked to that have them say they work great and are glad they went that route.
Dave
Dave
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Yes the fuel economy is an added benefit. Keep in mind if you start thinking of going the spyntec rout your rims will not work with the lock out hubs. They have a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern and your jeep has 5 on 5.0. Meaning the hole in the center of the rim is bigger around. They couldnt make the lock out hubs any smaller than that and not have it be very week! I'm still thinking about going with a set as I grew up with all four wheel drives having lock out hubs and having that front end spinning all the time grinds on me as if I were driving my old 72 chev 4x4 and not unlocking the hubs!!
Dave
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Originally Posted by dave7200
Yes the fuel economy is an added benefit. Keep in mind if you start thinking of going the spyntec rout your rims will not work with the lock out hubs. They have a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern and your jeep has 5 on 5.0. Meaning the hole in the center of the rim is bigger around. They couldnt make the lock out hubs any smaller than that and not have it be very week! I'm still thinking about going with a set as I grew up with all four wheel drives having lock out hubs and having that front end spinning all the time grinds on me as if I were driving my old 72 chev 4x4 and not unlocking the hubs!!
Dave
Dave
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Another thing that will cure it that is not quite so expensive is to put on a set of spyntec lock out hubs on. Then it really doesnt matter what the pinion angle is at because the only time the drive shaft turns is when the hubs and transfer case are locked in four wheel drive. The vast majority of the time your not in four wheel drive!! The people ive talked to that have them say they work great and are glad they went that route.
Dave
Dave
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With a double cardan ujoint up at the transfer case it needs to take up all the driveline angle, meaning the front ujoint angle must be 0° to the pinion or vibrations can/will occur.
I installed a Rubicon Dana 44 in my Sahara, my fix was to cut the welds on the "C's" and twist them so I get the same results as a Prorock44(yes not as strong)
![](http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa441/nordicsoul56/IMG_0013.jpg)
![](http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa441/nordicsoul56/driver.jpg)
![](http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa441/nordicsoul56/passenger.jpg)
![](http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa441/nordicsoul56/IMG_0038-1.jpg)
Last edited by 69mach1; 10-28-2012 at 10:10 AM.
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Originally Posted by 69mach1
Know that getting a TW driveshaft is not going to fix your problem.
With a double cardan ujoint up at the transfer case it needs to take up all the driveline angle, meaning the front ujoint angle must be 0° to the pinion or vibrations can/will occur.
I installed a Rubicon Dana 44 in my Sahara, my fix was to cut the welds on the "C's" and twist them so I get the same results as a Prorock44(yes not as strong)
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=383250"/><img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=383251"/>