Front End F**K Up
#11
JK Enthusiast
Doesn't sound like death wobble. With the esp light going off when driving straight and a wobble feel in steering I would check your "roll center" and look at the front vs rear trackbar. This exact thing happened to my friend. He had a lift that lowered the top of the rear trackbar and when he upgraded the front suspension to synergy components and an artec truss it raised the trackbar by lifting the lower axle end (opposite of the rear) which throws off your "roll center". Couldn't figure it out for a long time as the drag link and trackbar were perfectly aligned but drove squirrely. When we figured it out he switched to the rear Axle trackbar brace and moved the top back to the factory location and it drives great now.
Just my 2 cents
Just my 2 cents
#12
JK Super Freak
If you're putting your floor jack on cinder blocks in order to jack it up, you likely have something more than a leveling kit.
First off, quit doing that. Get a bigger jack. What you are doing is unsafe - those blocks are not made for that kind of weight to be put on their sides.
Find out how much lift you have. With the Jeep on level ground, measure the distance from the lower shock bolt to the inside of the top of the shock tower.
If you are 3" or more over the stock 18.5", you probably need a drag link flip and a raised track bar bracket on the axle to compensate. And if you're not running adjustable control arms or geometry correction brackets, you'll need to do that too.
But start with the simplest stuff first. Make sure you have toe in set properly. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. Make sure the track bars are adjusted to the axles are centered side-side (having front out of alignment with rear will cause ESC issues). If you get all that dialed in, you should have no ESC problems. If your steering is still funky, then start looking at drag link flips and adjustable arms.
First off, quit doing that. Get a bigger jack. What you are doing is unsafe - those blocks are not made for that kind of weight to be put on their sides.
Find out how much lift you have. With the Jeep on level ground, measure the distance from the lower shock bolt to the inside of the top of the shock tower.
If you are 3" or more over the stock 18.5", you probably need a drag link flip and a raised track bar bracket on the axle to compensate. And if you're not running adjustable control arms or geometry correction brackets, you'll need to do that too.
But start with the simplest stuff first. Make sure you have toe in set properly. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. Make sure the track bars are adjusted to the axles are centered side-side (having front out of alignment with rear will cause ESC issues). If you get all that dialed in, you should have no ESC problems. If your steering is still funky, then start looking at drag link flips and adjustable arms.
#13
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Go to the JK-Writeups area. Stuck right to the top is a good diagnosis thread.
Have you had it on an alignment rack? If so, post the specs.
So the steering wheel is straight. No esp lights. No weird steering/handling. You are just driving down the street, and suddenly the steering wheel is crooked, and the light comes on?
Thinking that there is a little something missing from the story...
Have you had it on an alignment rack? If so, post the specs.
ESP light comes on when I'm driving straight, the steering wheel will uncenter, and the alignment will be off
Thinking that there is a little something missing from the story...
#14
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Atlanta GA
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If you're putting your floor jack on cinder blocks in order to jack it up, you likely have something more than a leveling kit.
First off, quit doing that. Get a bigger jack. What you are doing is unsafe - those blocks are not made for that kind of weight to be put on their sides.
Find out how much lift you have. With the Jeep on level ground, measure the distance from the lower shock bolt to the inside of the top of the shock tower.
Attachment 657707
If you are 3" or more over the stock 18.5", you probably need a drag link flip and a raised track bar bracket on the axle to compensate. And if you're not running adjustable control arms or geometry correction brackets, you'll need to do that too.
But start with the simplest stuff first. Make sure you have toe in set properly. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. Make sure the track bars are adjusted to the axles are centered side-side (having front out of alignment with rear will cause ESC issues). If you get all that dialed in, you should have no ESC problems. If your steering is still funky, then start looking at drag link flips and adjustable arms.
First off, quit doing that. Get a bigger jack. What you are doing is unsafe - those blocks are not made for that kind of weight to be put on their sides.
Find out how much lift you have. With the Jeep on level ground, measure the distance from the lower shock bolt to the inside of the top of the shock tower.
Attachment 657707
If you are 3" or more over the stock 18.5", you probably need a drag link flip and a raised track bar bracket on the axle to compensate. And if you're not running adjustable control arms or geometry correction brackets, you'll need to do that too.
But start with the simplest stuff first. Make sure you have toe in set properly. Make sure the steering wheel is centered. Make sure the track bars are adjusted to the axles are centered side-side (having front out of alignment with rear will cause ESC issues). If you get all that dialed in, you should have no ESC problems. If your steering is still funky, then start looking at drag link flips and adjustable arms.
#15
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
So I purchased a rugged ridge track bar, the front in is a lot more stiff but whenever I get up to speed it seems more guided by the lines and dips in the road than by the steering wheel. Any idea why? It's aligned, everything is torqued, double measured.
#16
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It's aligned...
Post the specs.
Which tires, what size, what psi? Some are said to cause pulls to one side. Wider/aggressive tires are said to follow road imperfections more than narrow stock tires. So if nothing else, just good info for us to have while trying to diagnose.
Have you opened the Deathwobble/Shimmy diagnosis thread that was mentioned...
#17
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Post the specs. Which tires, what size, what psi? Some are said to cause pulls to one side. Wider/aggressive tires are said to follow road imperfections more than narrow stock tires. So if nothing else, just good info for us to have while trying to diagnose. Have you opened the Deathwobble/Shimmy diagnosis thread that was mentioned...
37x13.5x22
35psi
#18
JK Junkie
Sure it's not the Craig's special wheel and deal setup you just put on?
Not really an apples to apples deal with pretty much any of the other members rigs here.
If your ESP is going off it's the drag link, period.
The only times I ever see those lights it is. Just me I guess. Fiddling around with it doesn't help, been there too.
Have also had bad tires. Once they won't balance, they usually won't balance. My MTR/K set was horrible at this. As soon as they were gone it was gone.
I'm running a lot of the same components you have as well.
Not really an apples to apples deal with pretty much any of the other members rigs here.
If your ESP is going off it's the drag link, period.
The only times I ever see those lights it is. Just me I guess. Fiddling around with it doesn't help, been there too.
Have also had bad tires. Once they won't balance, they usually won't balance. My MTR/K set was horrible at this. As soon as they were gone it was gone.
I'm running a lot of the same components you have as well.
#19
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Sure it's not the Craig's special wheel and deal setup you just put on?
Not really an apples to apples deal with pretty much any of the other members rigs here.
If your ESP is going off it's the drag link, period.
The only times I ever see those lights it is. Just me I guess. Fiddling around with it doesn't help, been there too.
Have also had bad tires. Once they won't balance, they usually won't balance. My MTR/K set was horrible at this. As soon as they were gone it was gone.
I'm running a lot of the same components you have as well.
Not really an apples to apples deal with pretty much any of the other members rigs here.
If your ESP is going off it's the drag link, period.
The only times I ever see those lights it is. Just me I guess. Fiddling around with it doesn't help, been there too.
Have also had bad tires. Once they won't balance, they usually won't balance. My MTR/K set was horrible at this. As soon as they were gone it was gone.
I'm running a lot of the same components you have as well.
Darkar M/T Mark Ma
37x13.5x22
35psi
37x13.5x22
35psi
Not being rude or mean, I think it's time you take it over to a real offroad shop and have them diagnose and remedy the problem, just as long as they don't offer you another steering stabilizer. I'd rethink the tire/wheel combination as well. Just my $0.02, if its even worth that
#20
If you haven't done anything with the rear trackbar, it won't have anything to do with roll center...and it won't anyway if youre talking about vibes.
I woulnd't worry about a drag link flip, at 3.5" you can but it isn't 100% needed and is another can of worms since you would then need to raise your front trackbar at the axle and rear trackbar at the axle to correct the DL/Trackbar angles front and rear.
Torque everything to spec with a torque wrench with the weight on it, fix your drag link length, see if that helps. If not your castor is probably way off (i'm guessing it is). Buy those brackets or adjustable lower control arms. Also look for deflection in your RE track bar and check the joints while turning lock to lock. If you can't figure it out with that sell your jeep because its never going to be right.
I woulnd't worry about a drag link flip, at 3.5" you can but it isn't 100% needed and is another can of worms since you would then need to raise your front trackbar at the axle and rear trackbar at the axle to correct the DL/Trackbar angles front and rear.
Torque everything to spec with a torque wrench with the weight on it, fix your drag link length, see if that helps. If not your castor is probably way off (i'm guessing it is). Buy those brackets or adjustable lower control arms. Also look for deflection in your RE track bar and check the joints while turning lock to lock. If you can't figure it out with that sell your jeep because its never going to be right.