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Front Driveshaft/T-case vibration?

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Old 01-16-2010 | 09:52 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
RE-read post, you had 33's and it was doing it then too? You may have thrown a weight on the ds. Check for blank spots where a little square would be.
that's what i'm thinking. it's not uncommon to knock off weights on a ds and you more than likely have one that is out of balance.
Old 01-16-2010 | 01:49 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
as you've pointed out, with 5.13 gears, your front DS will be spinning much faster and, if your DS is out of balance and/or you have too much caster, IT will vibrate.
With regards to VIBRATION, which style of driveshaft (stock OEM flange or CV/double cardin U-joint) is more forgiving? I am looking into replacing my front driveshaft in the future (I have an auto trans) with an aftermarket 1310 DS. But debating whether I should get the 1310 OEM replacement so that I wouldnt have to replace the yokes or the 1310 CV version. My off roading is limited to only light trails and sand/beaches, so there wont be too much flexing...Thanks...
Old 01-16-2010 | 01:51 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by aldaman
With regards to VIBRATION, which style of driveshaft (stock OEM flange or CV/double cardin U-joint) is more forgiving? I am looking into replacing my front driveshaft in the future (I have an auto trans) with an aftermarket 1310 DS. But debating whether I should get the 1310 OEM replacement so that I wouldnt have to replace the yokes or the 1310 CV version. My off roading is limited to only light trails and sand/beaches, so there wont be too much flexing...Thanks...
you are less likely to have vibrations with a driveshaft that replaces the OEM flanges with new yokes. trust me on this one.
Old 01-16-2010 | 01:55 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by aldaman
With regards to VIBRATION, which style of driveshaft (stock OEM flange or CV/double cardin U-joint) is more forgiving? I am looking into replacing my front driveshaft in the future (I have an auto trans) with an aftermarket 1310 DS. But debating whether I should get the 1310 OEM replacement so that I wouldnt have to replace the yokes or the 1310 CV version. My off roading is limited to only light trails and sand/beaches, so there wont be too much flexing...Thanks...
It's better to replace at leas the tfcase yolk, it helps with the angle and puts the double carden joint closer to the tfcase. With the oe flange , the joint sticks out another 2-3 in from the tfcase.
Old 01-16-2010 | 01:55 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
you are less likely to have vibrations with a driveshaft that replaces the OEM flanges with new yokes. trust me on this one.
Damn, i gotta learn to type faster.
Old 01-17-2010 | 12:42 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
you are less likely to have vibrations with a driveshaft that replaces the OEM flanges with new yokes. trust me on this one.
Originally Posted by mkjeep
It's better to replace at leas the tfcase yolk, it helps with the angle and puts the double carden joint closer to the tfcase. With the oe flange , the joint sticks out another 2-3 in from the tfcase.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/installing-je-reel-1350-rear-driveshaft-28160/

Thanks.......Is it a simple procedure as replacing the stock flanges w/the aftermarket yokes and torquing the pinion nut (on the axle) ~160ft lbs? I read the write up on replacing the driveshaft and it mentions getting the rotational TQ average and tightening the pinion nut in 5lb increments until the Rotational TQ is achieved...Maybe I am making too complicated as it is, but just worried about leaks and over tightening the pinion nut and destroying the crush sleeve........

Old 01-17-2010 | 05:42 AM
  #17  
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I have had the same issues and the same guys commenting here have helped me out. It would be so cool if there was some way the average guy could adjust pinion angle and castor independently.

I may seriously consider the Spyntec free hub conversion with my next set of tires (and rims for the new bolt pattern). Does anyone know if the kits are sold with replacement rotors so that I wouldn't have to drill all four of mine? I really don't want to run spacers.
Old 11-12-2013 | 06:31 AM
  #18  
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i was told (and i could be wrong) that the front driveshaft usually wont go bad with up to 3 inches of lift because it is longer? thats just what i heard



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