Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

Front driveshaft replacement

Thread Tools
 
Old 12-15-2014, 06:05 AM
  #21  
JK Freak
 
TreyJK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 645
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have Adams as well. Very well built and customer service was top notch! Very nice people answering the phones
Old 12-15-2014, 07:12 AM
  #22  
JK Enthusiast

 
mattyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: virginia beach, Va
Posts: 439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Invest2m4
He destroyed a stock shaft, which is as strong as a 1310. Your advice is questionable at best. Given his setup? Hardly relevant. His use case is what matters. Clearly, he has a leveraged drivetrain that he pushes.

Define reputable?
id like to see how you find a stock shaft's strength equal to a stock shaft. and yes given his setup. if your only running 35's with 2.5 of lift on a DD, then your typically not running BIG DOGS or insane jamborees. if you intend to run a 1350, I bet your build will be MUCH beefier than whats there. OR inexperience is a factor.

rep·u·ta·ble


/ˈrepyədəb(ə)l/


adjective

1.
held in good repute; honorable; respectable; estimable:
a reputable organization.
2.
considered to be good or acceptable usage; standard:
reputable speech.
Old 12-15-2014, 07:39 AM
  #23  
JK Junkie
 
Invest2m4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Grosse Pointe, MI
Posts: 3,697
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mattyk
id like to see how you find a stock shaft's strength equal to a stock shaft. and yes given his setup. if your only running 35's with 2.5 of lift on a DD, then your typically not running BIG DOGS or insane jamborees. if you intend to run a 1350, I bet your build will be MUCH beefier than whats there. OR inexperience is a factor. rep·u·ta·ble /ˈrepyədəb(ə)l/ adjective 1. held in good repute; honorable; respectable; estimable: a reputable organization. 2. considered to be good or acceptable usage; standard: reputable speech.
Then why are driveshafts so big on 1 ton trucks? I mean, they come with 32" tires... If the OP is going to be pulling friends out of mud, he very well may need a stronger shaft.

I guess I should have been specific as the inference was apparently too subtle. Reputable based on what? You heard someone say? Read it in a post? Found a statistically significant analysis of each manufacturers products?
Old 12-15-2014, 07:52 AM
  #24  
JK Jedi Master
FJOTM Winner

 
Mark Doiron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Midwest City, OK
Posts: 14,790
Received 362 Likes on 270 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by johnnymurad
Tried to unstick my buddy who had his 41 inch tires buried in sand on a steep bank washout hidden by brush ate the front driver side of his jeep. I tried to winch him out, winch went into thermal shut down, tried pulling him backwards with my jeep and driveshaft twisted and broke like a wet noodle... ended up having to call a tow truck... crappy deal.

Anyways what front drive shaft should I replace it with? Dana 30, 4.88, 35s, 2.5 tera coil lift.
Sometimes a little bit of manual labor can make the job a lot easier. Tools like this are very useful ...





My front driveshaft failed at the Rzeppa joint--spitting grease--after about 120-130K miles. Note that my configuration is very similar to yours (except I have a six speed). I replaced it with a Tom Woods. The Tom Woods requires maintenance. As I would learn there are five fittings that require grease. I thought four--one being recessed and hidden and thus overlooked by me. That overlooked one would result in increasing noise from the front shaft during a trip--about 20-25K miles after install. Pulled it and learned that I needed to return it to Tom Woods for repair--they use specialty parts that are difficult for local driveline shops to source. This turned out to be a good thing because they changed the parts for just cost of parts (I was out of warranty). Great service; super fast turn-around. And now I know to grease that hidden zerk fitting.

As far as whether to stick with OEM or aftermarket, when to switch shafts, etc, here's a bit dated article written by Tom Woods himself. Note that along with using terms like "stronger" and "weaker", he gets rather specific about what that actually means ...

http://www.4xshaft.com/JR7_TW_Driveshaft.pdf

Last edited by Mark Doiron; 12-15-2014 at 07:55 AM.
Old 12-15-2014, 09:57 AM
  #25  
JK Enthusiast
 
Chemlight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Fayette-nam, NC
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Invest2m4
The point we are getting at is that a 1310 shaft is not stronger than a stock shaft. If you don't have issues with your shafts, keep them. If you want something stronger, then get 1350s.
Yep. Tracking. Thx



Quick Reply: Front driveshaft replacement



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:45 PM.